Code Alarm remote start

I have a Code Alarm ca545 remote start system installed in my buddies 1994 camry. I installed everything, and in the beginning, everything worked fine.

Heres the problem: When i remote start the vehicle, everything works, but the vehicle will only run for about 1 to 2 minutes. After that, it shuts down, and refuses to remote start again (parking lights flash 3 times). I can repeat this process by unplugging both power harnesses from the brain. After I do this, I am able to remote start, but like i said, the vehicle only runs ro 1 to 2 minutes.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this? Could the accessory circuit be drawing too much power, and maybe the unit has a shut off for something like that?

Anything helps-

THanks in advance

jazzy95tsi wrote:

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Three flashes is hood shutdown on those codes.

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Ding ding ding.....he is right

mxxmikexx wrote:

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Ive been having the same problem with a CA545 that a customer purchased from circuit city and then gave me the PLEASURE of installing. this is one of the WORST units ive dealt with in quite some time. i will NEVER install another CODE unit. the unit is doing the same thing for me, it works fine for awhile, then gives me 3 flashes. and the hood pin is not even hooked up when this is happening. i install audiovox, and dei all day long with no problems, whats the deal with code alarm? and I definatly agree with that previous post about how UNuser friendly the programing is on these code units.

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I couldnt agree with you more.   The Code units are a PAIN!    I have installed at least 100 of those new Code units and they arent so bad once you get used to having such a huge brain.   they have the quirks but once you know what they are they honestly arent that bad.     I have one in my Lexus and it works perfectly.    Dont get my wrong I LOVE DEI!    The new code brain is the 425a and that is smaller and seems to work better.       If you can get in touch with the wireless programmer then you will be golden.   That thing is pretty cool.    But again.........if you dont have that your pretty much F-d.  

Code alarm is definately one of the worst products out there but if you do have to deal with it heres a few suggestions. There are three versions of the remote starter you are talking about revision 00, 01, and 02. The only one that works right is the 02. Check on the back of the "master module" on the white sticker to see what revision you have if it is anything other than an 02 I wouldnt even bother installing it, you will have problems. BTW the three flashes is the unit going into lock up mode. Pretty much what computers do once and a while, commonly fixed by a reboot. Same idea with the 00 and 01 revisions, if you pull the fuses and put them back in, the rs will work fine again for a couple of days then go into lock up mode. I've found that this will always happen if you do voltage and only sometimes with tach. With the 02 revision I havent done one without tach because I didnt want any problems (better way to do it anyways) but it doesnt go into lock up mode ever, therefore I dont really know if the 02 revision will lock up if done with voltage.

hope this helps

fbird08 wrote:

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Oh yeah also another fun little fact about these remote starters. They are designed to be and alarm, remote start, or alarm and remote start it just depends what you want. Cool in theory but sucks in real life. When you do a remote start install keep the negative doorpin wire, you need to ground this to program it. The brain needs to see a "door open" to program. Also if you use this as an alarm in a ford, sell the customer an extra relay so you can convert their positive door trigger to a negative one. The positive door trigger on the brain does not alow you to program the unit. It works as a positive trigger but when you go to program it nothing happens, the brain does not see a "door open".....it just laughs at you and says I'm crappy.

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LMAO!    I couldnt agree with you more.     I dont have any problems with the one in my car(its even set on voltage)  but I had a customers lock up again.    One of the ways it can lock up is with low voltage.   Check the voltage on the 12v wires when the car cranks.  If they drop below 9v's theres a good chance it is going to end up locking up.     I talked to the code tech support manager and he couldnt really give me a reason behind the prob.  the only solution could be getting 12v from the battery.   

"The code stuff just will not work right and is very unreliable. I am sorry that you are stuck installing the "fax machine" sized remote starters in your customers cars. It gives a very poor representation of your installation ability due to a flawed product." 

^ direct from a code tech hahaha