Sequoia stock alarm during remote start

the stock alarm triggers during remote start when the car is locked. i just need to hook up the keysense wire correct? how do i wire that up? the keysense wire will disarm the stock alarm while keeping the doors locked correct? i know this is true for other cars but the toyota/lexus doorlocks are throwing me off since the lock/unlock is the same as the arm/disarm.

ground the keysense to disarm. technically speaking, run a disarm wire to that keysense.

am not sure what you mean by when it lock or you mean unlock?

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

let me rephrase my question.

how do i remote start the car without tripping the stock alarm and without disarming the alarm (unlocking the doors) first?

so far, we have agreed that i must ground the keysense wire during remote start.

the 2nd part of my question is, will the keysense wire definitely still disarm the alarm without unlocking the doors despite having the special toyota/lexus security door module setup?

thanks for your reply.

this is a clifford matrix 3.5. i will use the H2/1 light GREEN/ black (-) factory disarm output to ground the keysense wire correct?

No, you need to use a ground when running wire. blue or blue/white. The quick pulse of a lt. GREEN/ black wire isn't long enough.

thanks jworm. do i need to run a relay or will the blue status wire be able to handle the current of the keysense wire?

f00dstamps,

I just quickly glans through the install manual. It doesn't have such a feature. Unless someone here can point it out to you something that I miss.

BLUE (-) 200 mA STATUS OUTPUT with a relay ground that to the key sense wire. If that doesn't work, you have to do it the manual way.

Unlock the doors to disarm the factory alarm. Start your car and lock the car up to arm it back. I was thinking that you can use the disarm wire to unlock the car to disarm, but you still have to lock the car up afterwards.

Anyways, get Autostart or Compustar on your next remote starter if you don't want any of these issue.


As mention in the other post.

"What you need to do is look for a function on your remote starter that will do the following.

Unlock the doors, on your particular car the factory alarm will disarm with unlock. It will then Start the car. Once the car starts running, 3 seconds later it will then locks and arm the car up.

It sometime has a fancy term like SMART START, SMART LOCK, SECURE LOCK...Anyways, the term just does the function I mention above. If you can't find it, just tell us the model of your remote starter you are using. I am sure someone here can help you program that function. "


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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

If it doesn't work. Just do what you mention. "disarm,start,arm." Don't worry about the disarm wire. There is no need for it.    

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

but, can't i use the disarm wire to unlock/disarm the factory alarm but it will still keep the clifford armed? i'd rather do this one step process than a 3 step process.

i know this thread is nearly dead and i'm killing it with all these questions but i'm asking the question purely with the reason of acquiring knowledge.

It serve no purpose to use it cause the doors of your car is open. It's unnessary work to hook up that wire that does nothing. Where you can lock and unlock the door to do the same without having to wire up that wire. I hope I am making sense to you. Hopefully, you can see it from my point of view as an installer.



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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Just hook up the blue status output to the key sense wire. No relay necessary. The key sense wire will probably be YELLOW /GREEN. If you are using the blue wire already to trigger the transponder key bypass you will need to split it with diodes or you will run into feedback problems.

Unlocking and then relocking the doors would work, but is totally pointless to do. I consider it the 'cheating' method used when you are too lazy to disarm the factory alarm the correct way.

thanks jworm,

thanks for even including info about the diodes. i will make sure to diode isolate it.

please verify this: the anode will be the end closest to the blue status output and the cathode of each diode will be towards the bypass and the keysense wire?

I can never remember if anode or cathode is the striped side.

The striped side faces the relay pack. The non striped side faces the keysense and key bypass module.

anode = non-striped
cathode = striped

thanks for correcting me. for some reason, i always get it backwards in my head.

grounding the keysense wire did the trick. thanks for your guys' help.

ok, new problem guys but i'm sure it's related.

the car's alarm tripped and after my friend disarmed it, it wouldn't start anymore.

if you try to either remote start or start it manually with the key, all you hear is a clicking sound. my friend said he's pretty sure it's the immobilizer because he lost the key to his camry before and when he used a key without the chip, it would make the same clicking sound.

it makes me think the problem is the immobilizer. however, i was under the impression that the car will still crank but will not start without the immobilizer. the car no longer cranks. it makes a clicking sound and will not start at all.

please help.

if the immobilizer is not coded correctly, the car will crank but not turning over.

the clickin sounds like a low batt or starter is not good (but its weird to have it goes bad that quick).

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Houston,TX
"The two most common elements in the universe are H+ and stupidity" (Ellison).

profuse,

the immobilizer was working properly before with no problem. apparently, my friend told me over the phone that the car doesn't even crank.... it just clicks.

i was thinking the clicking sound was the low battery or the starter too but i wasn't sure. i might have to try hooking up the car's battery to my car for extra juice if needed to test it out. maybe something was draining the battery and causing it to be low.

i sure hope it's not the starter that's bad.

ok, it was a low battery because when i jump-started it.. it worked just fine. i left it running for a while and i was able to remote start it several times and it worked perfectly.

the question i have is what could be draining the battery? it's a new car with only 3000 miles. is it possible it is a bad battery? why did it conveniently happen 2 weeks after i installed the alarm and 1 week after i hooked up the keysense wire? could it be a relay draining power?

when the car initially did not start, it was only 1 hour after it had be shut off. that shouldn't be long enough for the battery to drain enough that it couldn't start again.

Check your relay and make sure none are power up with the car off. If you put in a stater kill, the 12V should be connected to ignition and not 12V constant. And yes, a new battery can easily be damage if it is completely drain of it power over and over again.

The parasitic drain on the battery should about 35-40 milliamps. Keep in mind that the current draw is only use to maintain electronic memories and circuits. Take a reading with your digital meter. If you are within the number that I mention than I would take a closer look at the battery issue.

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

i will test this out if the problem continues. my friend lives about 35 minutes away or else i would do a quick check on the relays.