problem, or unit itself?

aye caramba...same alarm....almost same problem.

In my case, though, everything worked fine, until I installed a 530t (window module).  Something messed up, and that's when my IGN controlled stuff (the domelight, the door locks....) all started going hay-wire.  I finally turned off some of those options.  If I wiggle some of the wires on my relay satellite (for the remote starter) while I have the key in the II position (so there's power ot the ignition wire), I can actually hear the relays clicking on and off.  So somehow the ignition power ot the alarm is cutting.

Make sure that both of you check all connections ( I hope you both soldered and not crimped ) and make sure you do not have a  cold solder. One thing to check for is the valet button is actually cutting power when it's supposed to. Try to disconnect the valet switch from the unit temporarily and see if the problem persists.

Ludeboi: Do you have the door open for the valet mode ? Make sure it is because it needs to see that the door is open in order for you to put it in the valet.

cpgoose: make sure that you check the door pin switch as well as the wire to ensure that you are getting a (-) signal when you try to get into valet mode.

HA! 

Yea, but the ignition cuts out when I "jiggle" wires on the relay satellite.  The doors don't mess up anymore, now that I've turned off the ignition controlled door locks.  Although it does occassionally (the domelight) come on because
it thinks
I opened a door.  Hmmm....maybe some of the wires that I dragged into the doors (for power door locks)  have become stripped, and are tripping the system.  Just can't figure out the jiggle.

EDIT:  Agh, now that I think about it, when I was driving down the road, and the system was tripped, which turned on the domelight and stuff.....if it was the wires for the power door locks that I installed, wouldn't the doors have tried to lock/unlock, even though i turned off the ign controlled locks?

Hmmm.....so I could either have a defective unit or a defective satellite relay, right?

I checked the ignition wires in the satellite relay when the car was off.  I think the pink wire dropped to 0, but the pink/white wire had like 6.7 mV.  (Is that worth anything?)

What I really wanted to check on is if the two ignition wires of the relay satellite should show continuity with the car ign wires they're hooked into when the car is off and on.  Like I said in a previous post the pink/white shows continuity when on or off, but the pink only showed continuity (beeeeep) when the car was off.  Should it show when it's on, too?

if the pink wire was connected to the proper wire than it should show voltage in the run,and start position and continuity to ground when the key is off.

ahhh, thanks!  I'll try checking that.  I guess that's what was happening because I wasn't getting continuity when the car was off (between the pink wire and the ign wire of the car).

Is this the same thing for the pink/white (secondary ignition) wire on the relay satellite, too?

Hey there, I'll jump on the band wagon and ask some question, I have a 92 Integra Manual SEdan like CPGOOSE and here are my questions regarding the 550esp alarm I bought, 1. Wait to Start, Deisel do I need to hook that up, or just ignore it, 2. what is a secondary ignition output  pink/white, 3. climate control, do I have to hook this up and where?,  4. I have a 5 speed, how do I hook up the remote start on this,  Thanks folk hope you can help again JEFF

Hey joelr....as for the 5-speed part of your question, installing remote starts in a manual
is a touchy subject, so I'm not going to answer that one.   They have remote starters that
are specifically designed for manuals, and I don't think the 550esp is one of them.

Anyway.......(1)Yea, I think you can just leave the Wait To Start (deisel) wire alone
....tape it off.  (2)The secondary ignition output (pink/white) wire has to go to the
 Integra's second igntion wire.  In my car, the BLACK / YELLOW wire is the primary ignition
and the blue/white is the secondary igntion wire.  (3) Climate Control....I'm assuming
you mean the orange wire from the remote starter.  If when you remotely start the car,
you want the heater or air conditioner to come on (which I'm sure you do), then yes,
you have to hook up this wire.  In my Integra, I hooked it up to the Yellow wire in
the ignition harness, which controls the "accessory blower" for the air and heat.

Post more questions if you got 'em.  Below is a link for the '92 Integra's wiring.

 Thanks  "CPGOOSE"

   The INFO you gave is great,  secondary ignitions, your talking about  blue/white,  is it located at the steering columm next to the ignition BLACK / YELLOW,           WIRING INFORMATION 1992 Acura Integra 

NOTE:

-Door trigger looks like 14-gauge wire but mostly insulation.

MAN MY BUDDY HAS THE SAME VIPER ALARM 550esp, and his is manual and he got his starter remote hooked up, just make sure that your not on 1st gear, Maybe someone know's how, some where out there or "JEFF" might know?

Solder, solder, solder!  There is no substitute!

Best way to solder is to put something to cover yyour rugs so that it doesn't get burn and then buy a converter to plug in to the cigg lighter and plug your   solder if you don't have any outlets near by and solder away, buy a bright light so you can see in those akward positions,

Jeff,  (-) Mulitiplexed input, Zone 4  to and Optional Sensor, what can I hook that up to?

CPGOOSE  

where did you connect these wires on your 550ESP viper alarm, if you have the manuals, look this up  1.  H3/1 BLue (-) status output     2.  H3/2  Blue/Black (-) optional third igintion output, where the hell is the third ignition output,  thanks dude, All most done with this fun installation of my alarm,   JOEL                                                                                                            

well, to tell you the truth it's been a few months, so I can't remember if I just taped those up or if they had to be grounded.

1.  H3/1 Blue - This alarm wire outputs a negative signal when the remote starter is engaged.  It's used to do things like shut down a sensor.  I didn't need to use it, but I can't remember if I grounded it or if I just taped it up.  Probably just taped it. 

2.  H3/2 Blue/Black - It's the alarm's optional third ignition output.  If our cars had a third ignition wire, then we would need this blue/black wire to hook up to the third ignition wire.  We don't have a 3rd ignition wire, though, (we only have 2), so I didn't use this wire.  I'm pretty sure you can just tape it off.

I'm sure someone can say whether these 2 can either be taped or if they have to be grounded.  I just can't remember what I did, I just know i didn't need them.

Well I use FLUX, it's a type of lube that I put on the wires.   When I solder, it intends to spread out around the area I solder, instead of just having a big chunk  of solder on one area. They should have it at the hardware store where you can buy a soldering gun,  then try to wrap the wire's with 3M electrical tape so it looks like the factorys wiring, so that the thiefs don't know where the brains at to cut when your alll done with the procedure's,  GOOD LUCK "BOYMATA"

CPGOOSE  Thanks for the info, That's good enough for me. I try again on the system this weekend ,   You too    " JEFF"  Thanks Again

Try using a cordless soldering iron... I know it's more expensive, but you don't have to wait for it to heat up as long and it's alot easier to use. Solder all connection that are not soldered for a trouble free installation.

Player69  

Oh no I'm not using pipe flux,  it say on the container NOKORODE soldering paste, sorry bout that, let me make that  correction, but I believe it's meant for electrical wiring, not pipes, but it works great  without spilling all the solder on the floor, I think  JEFF had a great Idea about the about the cordless solder, alittle more expensive but very stress free,   thanks PLAYER, I keep that in mind,

CPGOOSE  H1/3 WHITE/ blue remote start (-) activation input,  Where did you hook this up?

Make sure your flux is for electrical.  I have never heard of it and have been in the electronics industry for 10 years.  I worked on a truck tonight where the previous installer used the wrong solder  and probably used flux as well.  The problem with flux is it is acid and will corode the hell out of the wires.  This truck had the wires coroded 3 inches each way from the point of solder.   Not nice.  The wires pretty much need to be replaced.

I would suggest switching to a good 60/40 rosin core solder and forget the flux.  I have no problem soldering without drips on the floor. 90% of the battle is a hot enough soldering iron.  I suggest Snap-on butane model.  I posted a link to it a while back in the 12 volt install bay name 'tools of the trade'

Quote:  "CPGOOSE  H1/3 WHITE/ blue remote start (-) activation input,  Where did you hook this up?"

well, once again I remember the wire, but not really what I did with it.  I remember that I didn't hook it up to a pushbutton for "easy access to valet take over" as the manual says.  I believe if you don't use it for that, then you have to ground the wire instead.  Someone correct me if I'm wrong (or let us know if I'm right  )

Someone answer this question

 For a Manual transmission 92 Integra, is there an (+) or (-) connection standard, that I can hook up so that the alarm know's it's in gear or neutral, or do I have to make up some type of micro switch or magnetic sensor to get this reading, I'm doing this for a remote start safety. So if I remote start the car, and it's in gear that it won't start until it's on neutral.