2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=50790
Printed Date: April 24, 2024 at 12:07 PM
Topic: 2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start
Posted By: dmurray14
Subject: 2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start
Date Posted: February 24, 2005 at 6:37 PM
Anyone ever done a remote start install in a 2001 or similar Chevrolet Suburban? Anything special that needs to be done? Where can I find the complete wiring locations - the ones I have found online are fairly vague with quite a few instances of the same color wire... Help is much appreciated! Thanks
Dan
Replies:
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: February 24, 2005 at 8:43 PM
Here ya go Dan. Chevrolet | Suburban | 2000-2002 |
Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes | Function | | Vehicle Color | Location | Start: | | YELLOW (# AWG) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | Ignition #1: | | PINK (# AWG) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS* | Ignition #2: | | WHITE (# AWG) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS(ECM) | Ignition #3: | | N/A | | Accessory: | | ORANGE | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (HEAT/AC) | Brake Light: | | WHITE (+) | AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL | Tach Signal: | | VIOLET/WHITE | AT PLUG ABOVE VALVE COVER ON DR. SIDE | Parking Lights: | | BROWN (+) | # PIN PLUG IN FUSE PANEL OR AT SWTICH | Headlights: | | YELLOW (+) | AT HEALIGHT SWITCH | Diesel Glow Plug: | | | | Clutch Bypass Wire: | | | | Notes: | | *This Vehicle Is Equipped With GM's PASSLOCK II Anti-Theft System. Use Universal Alarm Bypass Module part # 2x402 where X can be any number. |
Chevrolet | Suburban | 2000-2002 |
Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors and Notes | Function | | Vehicle Color | Location | Constant +12 Volts: | | RED (2) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | OEM Alarm Disarm: | | GREEN | IN FLAT CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL | Dome Lights/Superv: | | WHITE | AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER ** | OEM Horn: | | BLACK (-) | STEERING COLUMN HARNESS | Power Lock: | | LT. BLUE | # PIN PLUG AT FUSE PANEL ON DR. SIDE | Power Unlock: | | WHITE | DRIVER'S KICK PANEL IN BODY CAVITY *** | Trunk Release: | | N/A | | Alarm Input Wire: | | WHITE | AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER ** | Notes: | | ** Convenience Center Is Locate Under Driver's Dash Near Fire Wall (Listen for dome light relay). *** See Note #202 - Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram. |
Posted By: IrishDoc
Date Posted: February 25, 2005 at 10:29 AM
just study the 5-wire door lock diagram and install it exactly if you want the doorlocks to work.
-------------
Just A Hobby Installer
Posted By: mnviking28
Date Posted: February 25, 2005 at 10:41 AM
Dan, I just did an '02 last week. It was actually a pretty easy install. A couple of tips for you...you can get to the lock/unlock, parking lights, and alarm disarm at the bcm which is right under the steering column. This will keep you from having to dig for them in the driver's kick panel and at the headlight switch. The lock/unlock are in the brown plug, the parking lights are in the light blue plug, and the disarm wire is in the purple plug. Wiring colors are all the same as mentioned in the diagram above. Make sure that you get the white ignition 2 wire hooked up. If you don't, major transmission problems will follow. Also, the best place I found to put the hood switch is on the brace on the driver's side that goes from the firewall over to the fender. Good luck, let me know if you have any questions! ------------- MNViking28
Posted By: mnviking28
Date Posted: February 25, 2005 at 10:45 AM
IrishDoc, This shouldn't be a 5 wire lock system, it should be a straight positive trip. They aren't like the old Suburbans and pickups. I have done 4 or 5 of these and they have all been a straight positive pulse to trip the locks. Has anyone else seen one of these that is a reverse polarity? ------------- MNViking28
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 9:02 AM
Boomer and viking, thanks for the great posts. What do you mean about the White IGN 2 wire - do I just tie that in with the other ignition wire? You have me really nervous now that I'm going to screw up the transmission - how woudl that happen? Also, where is the BCM, and are the wire colors in there the same as in the diagram above? And one last question - what is PASSLOCK II - is that kind of like BMW's EWS (something I'm familiar with) that needs a transponder or something? Is it certain that I have this - only reason I ask is because I had extra plain metal duplicate keys made and they start the vehicle no problem - making me think there is no transponder system installed. Thanks for the help, hopefully I can do this! Dan
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 9:34 AM
dmurray14 wrote:
Boomer and viking, thanks for the great posts. What do you mean about the White IGN 2 wire - do I just tie that in with the other ignition wire?
The remote starter unit will have a 2nd IGN output (-) or (+) depending on the system that you have. Most will be (-) that will trigger a relay to engage the 2nd IGN to power on during remote start. Use this diagram to trigger the 2md IGN with a (-) output from the alarm: https://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/N2P.jpg If you do not have a designated (-) or (+) trigger output for the 2nd IGN wire, use this diagram : https://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/2nd_ignition_relay.jpg dmurray14 wrote:
You have me really nervous now that I'm going to screw up the transmission - how woudl that happen?
If the 2nd IGN doesn't receive power during remote start, this circuit doesn't get activated when you take over with the key in the ignition, therefore the transmossion computer doesn't engage and you get harsh shifting almost right away. If this persists and you do not do anything about it, the transmission will get damged. dmurray14 wrote:
Also, where is the BCM, and are the wire colors in there the same as in the diagram above?
The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. You will be able to find all the wires there as listed above. dmurray14 wrote:
And one last question - what is PASSLOCK II - is that kind of like BMW's EWS (something I'm familiar with) that needs a transponder or something?
Passlock II system explained dmurray14 wrote:
Is it certain that I have this - only reason I ask is because I had extra plain metal duplicate keys made and they start the vehicle no problem - making me think there is no transponder system installed. Thanks for the help, hopefully I can do this! Dan
The Passlock II system is not in the key anymore, it's in the ignition column. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 9:40 AM
Great post by Jeff. The only thing I would add is do yourself a favor and buy a module called PLDATA. It is real simple to bypass passlock II with it. You being inexperienced this module will be well worth the money. It should be between $30-40 US. If anyone finds it cheaper I'd like to know. Good luck you can do it.
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 11:05 AM
I was just looking on bypasskit.com's dealer order desk and saw that the PLDATA's are out of stock. I think they are replacing it with the GMBP which is also a 1-wire data interface. The difference is that the GMBP does GM Passkey 3 Transponder Immobilizer Overrride & GM Passlock 2 Immobilizer Override via data bus. Neither require a key and the cost difference appears to be about a dollar. The GMBP would be a better choice for shops because it has more compatability.
Alternatively, the PLXR does just Passlock 2 and is about 7 bucks cheaper but requires a little more wiring. It requires cutting a Passlock 2 wire and tapping another.
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 12:36 PM
Wow, thanks for the GREAT info. I'll go ahead and get a PLXR. One other question - I should be using relays for all the starter wires I assume - do they usually come with the remote starter or do I get them seperately? Thanks, Dan
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 1:24 PM
Personally, I would spend the money and use the GMBP over the PLXR for this vehicle. Less hassles with programming and also more reliable with the databus connection. Some remote starter systems come with the starter disable relay and other don't. Depending on the system that your getting will determine if you need one. They're relatively cheap to buy from an automotive shop or a electronics store. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 2:56 PM
[QUOTE=dmurray14]I should be using relays for all the starter wires I assume - do they usually come with the remote starter or do I get them seperately?QUOTE]
Depends on what you mean by starter wires. If you mean the relays that power the Ignition, Accessories and Starter, they come with the remote start unit and are built in.
Starter kill like Jeff said is sometimes included with a remote start kit. The starter kill feature is optional though. In a basic remote start install it used to break the connection of the vehicle's start wire when the vehicle is running via the remote starter. It prevents you from getting in and turning the key too far and grinding the starter against a motor that is already running. The feature is called anti-grind and like I said is optional and may require a relay.
Some keyless entry/remote start units and almost all aftermarket alarms have the option of disabling the start wire using the same relay when the doors are locked or armed via the remote. This just creates added security by not allowing you to start the car even with the key when the system is locked or armed.
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 7:22 PM
OK, got it. I bought the Autopage RS-720...is that supposed to be a good one? From what I've heard Autopage is a fairly good brand, correct? Anyway, I was reading up and one thing that has me worried now is the airbag - what precautions should I take so I don't get it in my face? Something I never thought of...
Thanks,
Dan
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 7:33 PM
Also, I found the GMBP on bypasskit.com but I can't find out where to order it - any help? Thanks again guys...
Dan
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: February 28, 2005 at 8:16 PM
Can I just use a DEI 555L? or is the GMBP still superior for some reason? Thanks again, Dan
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 01, 2005 at 8:23 AM
bumpity...
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 01, 2005 at 10:37 AM
I can't see why you can't use the 555L on this vehicle. I prefer the databus module's, that's all. Personal preference in the end I guess.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: davedyer79
Date Posted: March 01, 2005 at 10:53 AM
The 555L will work fine on this vehicle, but what Jeff was saying is that the GMBP would be EASIER. The Autopage is a very straight forward install. It provides you with the ignitions you will need for your car, no relays needed for ign1, ign2, acc, and start. This unit also provides internal relays for your door locks. As far as I can tell, you won't need a single relay. If you use a module that requires a "ground when running", use the yellow wire from the Autopage 720. Other than that, all the connections can be made at the ignition harness and the BCM. This will allow a nice, clean install with only one loom of wires under your dash. One note on the side, when you take the underdash skirting off, there will be a piece of metal covering the BCM, looks like a helmet. 4 10mm bolts holding it on. Pay attention to where you run you wires around this "helmet." Try to keep them with the factory wires. If not, you will not be able to put this piece of metal back, and will have to undo all you connections and re-route, pain in the a$$. Good luck, very familiar with Autopage. If you need any help, PM me. ------------- davedyer79
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 01, 2005 at 4:36 PM
OK cool, thanks. I went ahead and got the 555L and saved about $25. When hooking up to the wires in the BCM, what should I be using to tap them? I was thinking those clip on wire taps, right?
Thanks,
Dan
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: March 01, 2005 at 7:44 PM
No, don't use T-Taps. Strip the wires back and solder & tape the connection .
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: mnviking28
Date Posted: March 02, 2005 at 2:35 PM
I completely agree with Jeff. T-taps are a no-no. Soldering and taping may take you a little more time, but it is a much more reliable install. T-Taps just lead to problems down the road. Vibration can work your connection loose, they can also bend and not fully cut through the insulation, leading to an intermittant connection. Or, even worse, they can actually cut some of your strands in your wires leading to further problems down the road. Take the time to do it right. Worst case scenario is that it will take you a little longer. The time you saved with the tips you got here will more than make up for the extra time soldering. ------------- MNViking28
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 04, 2005 at 8:49 PM
I'm back! Hopefully doing the install this weekend. I forgot to ask, where should I put the alarm control unit? Up by the BCM? I don't think I'd have enough wire length anywhere else... Dan
Posted By: davedyer79
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 5:03 PM
There is a big loom of factory wires to the left and above the BCM. Pull on it gently downward and you can stuff/zip tie the unit there. Also, there is a another loom of factory wires coming off this loom that goes to the BCM, so you can route the RS wires along the factory loom for a clean install. Also, if it means anything, I also agree with Jeff and mviking28. T-taps are horrible connectors that fail consistently. Soldering is the best, but if you are not comfortable with soldering, you can strip a 1/4 off the wires on the vehicle, stick a pick (icepick) through it to create a loop. Tie in the wire from the RS, twist, tape and zip tie each connection. I feel this is sufficient, but to each his own. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
-------------
davedyer79
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 6:05 PM
Thanks! I'm just starting the install now, and I'm completely baffled. I can't find any of the wires. I think this MAY be the ignition wires, but I'm not sure. Found these coming from the steering wheel and going into the fuse box. It has the wire colors for what would be start (yellow) ignition 1 (pink) ignition 2 (white) and accessory (thick orange) as well as a brown one. Would the brown be 12v? Here are 2 pics: At back of fuse panel: 
Coming from steering wheel: 
Additionally, the brown plug at the BCM has 4 light blue wires in it and 2 white wires. How the heck am I supposed to figure out which lock and unlock the car? 
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 8:14 PM
Help! I'm trying to get this done tonight! Also, where is the Passlock II wire?
Thanks a lot,
Dan
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: March 05, 2005 at 8:37 PM
You meter the wires while operating the functions to determine which is which. For instance your lt. blue and white. Check them for zero volts at rest and + 12 volts when you lock and unlock on the respective wire. Do the same for ignition wires. No voltage key off, +12 in the run position. The passlock wires come from the key and run down the steering column. Are you using a module? See your private message for more passlock instruction.
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 12:19 AM
OK, I am going to sleep thoroughly stumped. Boomer, thanks for the reply - it seems I lost my multimeter and will go pick up one tomorrow. Also, I'm having a really hard time believing that these wiring colors are correct - I find it hard to believe that the starter wire is the thinnest wire of them all. Does that make sense? And, I still have to find the 12v+ source, that's getting tough too. Anyone done one of these before that could possibly tell me what the thick brown wire in the ignition harness does, too, and whether I need it?
Thanks for the help, guys...
Dan
Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 12:55 AM
You are correct, the first picture in your post are the following. And yes, starter wire is the thin yellow wire.
| 12V|red |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|pink |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|white |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|orange |+ |ignition harness |
Lock/Unlock is the brown plug harness you are holder in the picture. You will get +12V when you hit the switch. The horn wire is there too. BLACK and negative.
------------- Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. 
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 6:28 AM
I'm not sure what the brown wire does but, at this point I don't think you need it. There is one sure fire way of finding out the starter wire. Cut it in half. If your truck won't crank then you know that is the wire. just like pencil said + 12 volts is the red wire grouped with the other ignition harness wires. You definitely need a multimeter when installing. You also need to allow yourself plenty of time especially if you haven't done this before. It helps alot when you're not hurried and stressed.
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 8:29 AM
dmurray14 wrote:
I find it hard to believe that the starter wire is the thinnest wire of them all. Does that make sense?
Yes the reason being that when that wire gets +12v it energizes a relay in the engine compartment which is a larger guage wire. Put your meter on the wire and test it for +12v when you are engaging the starter.
dmurray14 wrote:
I still have to find the 12v+ source, that's getting tough too.
Your constant +12v should be just that, always showing +12v even when the car is off. It will be a larger guage wire just like the Ignition wire, perhaps even a little bigger. It should be RED. Test all your wires with your DMM and/or test light. Don't rely on the wire color chart, they are simply there to help you locate the wires quicker. You still MUST test each wire for it's proper function before using it.
dmurray14 wrote:
Anyone done one of these before that could possibly tell me what the thick brown wire in the ignition harness does, too, and whether I need it.
The brown wire is for accessories such as the wipers and radio. You do not need this wire hooked up to remote start the vehicle. When you get in the remotely started vehicle and turn the key on the radio will be powered. You can power it if you like but it would require wiring an additional relay. I don't use it because I like the wipers to stay off in case the window is iced over or there is 3 inches of snow on it. The wipers if left on would try to activate and possibly stress or damage the wiper motor when they were unable to move. This allows the defroster to melt the ice or snow before the wipers come on.
dmurray14 wrote:
Additionally, the brown plug at the BCM has 4 light blue wires in it and 2 white wires. How the heck am I supposed to figure out which lock and unlock the car?
They are most likely the smaller quage wires but test the wires while activating the door switch to make sure.
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 9:58 AM
OK guys, thanks so much for the help! I went out and got another multimeter since I couldn't find my other one. Found all the wires except the factory disarm. I was looking for the green wire in the purple plug, but in my truck that wire gets 12+ all the time. I found a white wire that jumps to 12v when pressing unlock on the factory remote. Could this be it? If not, I'm baffled.
Thanks again guys,
Dan
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 11:17 AM
It should be pin B3 lt. green in the purple plug at BCM. You need to be looking for a (-)NEGATIVE pulse when disarmed. Put your Positive red DMM lead to +12v constant and the Negative black lead on the lt. green wire. Then turn the key in the driver door to test it. Should only show voltage when the key is turned to unlock the door.
You can also find it in the driver's kick panel which is to the left of your feet when seated. You'll have to remove the plastic covering and maybe pull the carpet back a little. But check pin 3 first on the BCM's purple plug.
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 11:18 AM
The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 11:29 AM
dmurray14 wrote:
Additionally, the brown plug at the BCM has 4 light blue wires in it and 2 white wires. How the heck am I supposed to figure out which lock and unlock the car?
Your White Unlock wire should be the 3rd wire from the left in the pic and the Lt. Blue Lock is the 4th wire.
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 1:51 PM
OK cool, thanks! Last question (I hope)...this is the wire I am to use for the tach right? Light blue on drivers side of engine? I put the multimeter up to it and got about .1-.3 V AC depending on RPMs. Does that make sense? Thanks again, Dan 
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 2:07 PM
Try using the white wire at the ECM. The ECM (Engine Control Module) is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in the connector labeled red. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the red connector.
Posted By: dmurray14
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 9:34 PM
It's all done! Everything works perfectly. Thanks a lot for all the help, guys, I really appreciate it!
Dan
Posted By: boomer_106
Date Posted: March 06, 2005 at 10:43 PM
 Cool glad you got it. Sit back with your favorite beverage and admire your work.
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