99+ GM Autopage Problems

bout a year ago I got an Autopage 750-LCD installed in my 01 Silverado.  The service was crappy as well as the installation.  There was always tiny things on the alarm operation that irritated the hell outta me.  Tryed to get it fixed but I got jacked around, well I took the time to read the manual and comprehend everything. 

Here were some of the problems I was having: 

Remote Start stopped being functional, would crank for a second, then die, I checked shutdown circuits ( brake/hood pin) as well as alarm programming, voltage check type was chosen, and I tryed about every setting, different crank times, hi/low check level.  I know that it is NOT the VATS module, that's what I have focused on the most, it is installed properly.  No blown fuses or anything either.

No parking light outputs, the white wire output 'supposedly" should be receiving constant output, but it's not.  I noticed on the inline fuse for power input to them it was fused w/ a fuse that was 5 amps higher than what the manual mentioned.  I'm hoping to god it didn't fry that section of the brain.  Also, It might have been in relation to a mod I did, i read somewhere, that if the lights are switched then the RED / white needs to be grounded.  Well i DID have it switched however, i "unswitched" it and still same problem, I'm wondering if the brain learned that new voltage output and hasn't reverted.

Door Locks not functional, I installed aftermarkets myself.  The style where u unlock one lock, they all pop.  Well they had it wired up like the aftermarket locks on this page to 2 relays.  but they don't work, I can hear the relays clicking sometimes, and every once in a while the locks will pop.  One day i was wiggling the relay and it was popping, back and forth.  I was wondering if this might be a faulty relay or something.

A BIG problem I noticed that scared me, was that the tachometer wire was plugged straight into 12+, could this damage anything, probably so, but advice would be great.

Any help on this pain-staking issue would be greatly appreciated. thanks!!

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---Scotty P---

peanutskeeter wrote:

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I know that it is NOT the VATS module, that's what I have focused on the most, it is installed properly.  No blown fuses or anything either.

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This means nothing, these modules can go bad, I have seen many bad out of the box. Try turning the key to run and then remote start the car.

peanutskeeter wrote:

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No parking light outputs, the white wire output 'supposedly" should be receiving constant output, but it's not.  I noticed on the inline fuse for power input to them it was fused w/ a fuse that was 5 amps higher than what the manual mentioned.  I'm hoping to god it didn't fry that section of the brain.  Also, It might have been in relation to a mod I did, i read somewhere, that if the lights are switched then the RED / white needs to be grounded.  Well i DID have it switched however, i "unswitched" it and still same problem, I'm wondering if the brain learned that new voltage output and hasn't reverted.

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The fuse issue could be because you have a truck and alot of times the fuse blows if you tow a trailer so the dealer might have just did this in anticipation of it happening. As far as the lights not working, you shouldn't be doing anything to the alarm if you don't have and understand the install manual. Disconnect the wire from the car and use a meter to see if there is any output.

peanutskeeter wrote:

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Door Locks not functional, I installed aftermarkets myself.  The style where u unlock one lock, they all pop.  Well they had it wired up like the aftermarket locks on this page to 2 relays.  but they don't work, I can hear the relays clicking sometimes, and every once in a while the locks will pop.  One day i was wiggling the relay and it was popping, back and forth.  I was wondering if this might be a faulty relay or something.

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Well it is possible that it is a bad relay, but unlikely. Which relays are you referring to the relays for the locks or the relays for the alarm, there should be two sets depending on how they integrated into the system. You also mentioned that you had 5 wire actuators, do they still lock and unlock when you manually lock/unlock them?

peanutskeeter wrote:

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A BIG problem I noticed that scared me, was that the tachometer wire was plugged straight into 12+, could this damage anything, probably so, but advice would be great.

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How do you know that it is plugged straight into 12V? Did you take a meter to it or are you assuming because of wire color? The alarm may be set to voltage sensing(it may need to be for this but unlikely) but again I don't know the specific alarm.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

I still am not receiving any voltage output from the brain for my parking lights, I do have an instlal manual, and with the many of hours I have devoted to comprehending everything about it, I do understand it.  The tach was hooked into the +12 source for the whole brain, and I know it shouldn't have been, the locks do not work manually, the installer removed the control box, when he put in the alarm, I really don't understand why that was necessary.. and I only had the blue and green wires connected to the alarm, and the BROWN / BLACK/ white wires were doing nothing.

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---Scotty P---

The BROWN / BLACK/ white wires probably were supposed to go to ground. Someone else can probably chime in knowing the wire colors for that alarm.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.