2001 Accord / Remote Start / Bypass

Hi all-

I'm thanking any replies to this in advance.

Here's the situation.

I installed a AutoCommand Remote Starter on my 2001 Honda Accord this past weekend by myself.  I'm a newbie to all these techie gadgets so forgive me if I don't call something by the right naming convention. Anyway, I inherited this remote start system, read the instructions, and realized I needed an alarm bypass module to continue installing this thing in - so I went out and bought a CrimeStopper Alarm Bypass Module (it was cheap and the guy had it in stock so I wasn't complaining).  This is the kind you put the key in.  It was no biggie to me as I've always had my gray valet key unused for the past 4 years, so I figured I'd put it in the box rather than having it sit in my silverware drawer for the next 4 years.

Anyway, my problem is that everything is hooked up as I know it should be hooked up per the diagrams and instructions I've got.  I've got the remote start functioning properly as well as the parking lights and door locks.  But, when I remote start the car with the Honda security enabled, the Honda alarm sounds (via horn).  When I shut off the starter using the remote and then restart, no horns.  By the way, when remoted, the starter works, it's just that the horns are so freaking annoying it makes me not want to remote start the vehicle.  And I'm really not thrilled with unlocking the vehicle first and THEN remote starting it.  That's a pain in the butt.

So, logically, I thought to check my connection of power to the bypass module (checked ok) and then check the wire from the bypass module to the negative run output of the remote (checked ok as well).  So now what?  What have I missed?  Another thing I thought it might be was the ring that goes around the key ignition being loose or something but that ring is solid and tight and seems properly installed to me.

I saw this post and it sounds like my problem.  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=49033&KW=honda

However, I'm not sure what they are referring to in the door.  Also the person that sold me the bypass module said that if my Honda had the security door light (it does) then my remote start install would be "tricky".  He didn't divulge any more info as he wanted me to shell out $250 for him to do the install, and I said nah....I'm assuming there's something that needs to be done in the door, hence him saying that.  Plus some of the things said in the post I pasted seem to allude to that as well.

Can someone straighten me out as to what I need to do to kill the alarm when I remote start this thing?  I thought that's what the bypass module would do, but I guess not.  Or maybe I have one more thing to bypass somehow that I've missed.

Thanks, Chris

secure auto-thanks for the suggestion on bypassing the alarm trigger, but the car came with an alarm system, so i'm just gonna keep using it, even though your suggestion is less work than jimmeezgolf's....

jimmeezgolfvr6-I think you've headed me in the right direction.  according the info secure auto posted about my vehicle's wiring, you are correct, the blue alarm system wire is in the door, so, it looks like i'm setting aside 2 hours to pull the door apart and run a wire from the remote starter into the door.  thanks again for all the good info.  my only question now is why does the car alarm not fire after remote starting the vehicle a few minutes after turning it off.  in other words, if i get out of the car after using it and shut everything off, lock the car and arm the honda security system, then remote start the car, no alarms go off.  but if i wait overnight and next morning try to remote start the vehicle with it armed, the horn goes off.  Is this a function of the alarm system needing a few minutes to fully arm itself?  That's my guess.

thanks for all the help. -chris

thanks pencil for your nice comments.

i just try to be logical about things.  i figure if someone's going to help me they need to know what the problem is, right?  You can't just go into a doctor's office and say, "I don't feel good" and expect the doctor to give you a pill to make you feel better and be on your way.  It just doesn't work like that.  well, i guess that's what valium used to do, but that's another topic.

As for me not calling things by the right name, I stated that because of my particular problem.  In other words, I was afraid my problem dealt with the Honda security system somehow as the security system was the thing that was going off everytime i remote started.  In the AutoCommand instruction manual they actually term the device needed to bypass the immobilizer the "alarm bypass module".  And that's where I was getting screwed up.  I knew I had the "alarm bypass module" hooked up correctly per the instructions yet guess what....the alarm was not being bypassed just the immobilizer.  So when the alarm bypass module, in my mind, was failing to do it's job (bypassing the alarm) I was really curious as to what was going on.  But jimmeezgolf's detailed account of what was actually happening made perfect sense after reading it and so, off I go tomorrow to pull the door apart and send that negative output to the blue wire. 

thanks everyone for the great answers!  this is a great forum!

-chris

solartech-

great suggestion.  just doesn't look like it will work for me tho.  after referencing the Autocommand manual, it seems  I have only 5 programmable options on my starter and unlock before remote start and then relock is not an option.  However, I did hook up the wires for lock and unlock on pass side door as you mentioned.  So that's done, but I'm at a loss for what you are wanting me to do with those door lock wires.  please explain. 

thanks -chris

20927 model.  bought for me about  4 years ago.  mom got it for me as a gift. i think she got it from a napa or autozone.  retail purchase, obviously.

here's the link to the model you are thinking about.  2xx24.

https://www.designtech-intl.com/Content/techsupport/documents/section05/20024-28v3-1.pdf

my manual isn't available online (that I could find).  i have about 5 programmable options.  way less than the 2xx24's have it seems.  here are my options.  1) no tach vs tach, 2)10 min runtime vs 15 min runtime, 3) normal vs extended crank, 4) normal vs super crank, 5) N/A 6) N/A 7) Enable vs No "enable" feature 8) N/A

so, pretty basic stuff.  after what you've read, is your suggestion still viable? LMK what you think.

thanks -chris