Adding a remote start to a factory keyless entry

Hello, I am looking for a remote start unit that will adapt to the factory keyless entry system so I don't have to use a seperate remote for the keyless entry and the remote start.  I want to keep on using the factory remote.  Who makes them and where can it be purchased?

I will be installing this in a '99 Toyota Avalon...also, I know that it has the transponder type key, I am assuming that I can just use the same basic bypass module with an extra key...am I correct?

Transponder key:  Yes, get one of the modules that uses an extra key.  Look for something where the coil of wire that goes around the key cylinder is already pre-looped, like the Audiovox AS-TCBM or DEI's 555U.  The kind where you have to make the loop yourself seem to be more picky about their placement, making them more time-consuming to install.

Remote start running off the factory keyless:  There are some units on the market.  But Toyota's keyless entry doesn't work with the motor running---go ahead and check for yourself.  So after you're remote started your car, you'll have to use the keys to get in---that's no fun.  You could probably modify the factory keyless to work at all times, but it would hardly be worth all the effort.

cpgoose

I am not familiar with Toyota's keyless system.  Does it have a extra channel?  If not, I know that I have to connect it with the door lock system...what wire(s) do I have to bypass to make the system think that the car is not running?

I just did a remote start on a '97 Avalon this morning.  It was actually my first remote start install on one of the older-style Avalons, so I did some testing to see what shortucts I could find for next time.  so I remembered a few things about the car.

You can certainly do exactly as cpgoose says; interrupt the ignition input to the factory keyless with a relay, so it doesn't know that the car is running.  But, the factory keyless/security module is practically buried---I found it, but I couldn't access the wires.  If you remove the entire glove box and the lower passenger dash, you can look in there and see it----it's black, plastic, and says "Toyota Security" or something like that. 

Also, the black plastic panel that sits above the passenger's toes just snaps off.  Move your hand as far toward the right-hand side of the car, and then reach way, way, way up---your hand will actually be about even with the top of the glove box, but on the backside.  If you operate the car's power door locks, you'l feel the unit clicking.  Good luck trying to access its wires.

What is it that makes you want to keep the factory remotes?  There are plenty of aftermarket units on the market with good-looking, factory-appearing remotes.  And the Avalon is an easy car.  Keyless entry is only two extra wires---and I managed to keep the factory driver's-priority unlocking.  Trunk release is only one wire.  And I managed to use my remotes to arm and disarm the factory alarm too.

My customer is kinda set on keeping his factory system, but I sure as hell am not going to mess with the factory system if it is that buried.  I am just going to have to talk him into upgrading the whole system.

What do you mean that the keyless entry is only two extra wires?

Is the trunk release negative trigger?  How about the locks?

Lock and unlock are negative trigger, in either kick panel......there is only one important thing to remember:  Don't use the wires that test by operating the lock unlock switch on the door-----they won't arm/disarm the factory alarm, and the unlock function of the switch becomes disabled if you lock the door and then close it---go ahead and try for yourself.

Lock is negative trigger, blue/white, in either kick panel---- you test this wire by inserting the key into the door and twisting it to the lock position.  This wire will also arm the factory alarm.

All doors-unlock is blue / YELLOW in the passenger kick, it tests by twisting the key in the passenger door, and it will also disarm the alarm.

Two-step driver's priority unocking is in the driver's kick, but I forget the color.  Again, you test this wire by twisitng the key in the door, and it will disarm the factory alarm too.

To disarm the factory alarm during remote start, you'll also need to "trick" the car into thinking there's a key in the ignition.  The key-sense wire is at the key cylinder, and it tests as negative whenever a key is inserted.  I think the color is red with some kind of stripe.  Anyway, use an output from your remote starter that puts out a ground the whole time the remote start is on.

Trunk release is GREEN / WHITE, in the driver's kick panel, and it will show a ground whenever you turn the key in the trunk cylinder.  There are several GREEN / WHITEs in there, so you'll have to test each one until you find it, but it's going to be one of the smaller ones.  It is a simple negative trigger; no relays required.  This wire will also disarm the factory alarm.