Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2004 Mitsubishi Galant, remote start

I'm buying a keyless bypass for my 2004 Mitsubishi Galant; the keyless bypass for my car is the PKU-MIT3. The last step in the installation is a little confusing. I was wondering if someone can clarify what needs to be done for me.
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2 valid keys are needed.

1. Insert 1st key and turn to the IGN "ON" position for 5 sec. Remove the 1st key.
2. Insert 2nd key: turn to the IGN "ON" position for 10 seconds. Remove the 2nd key.
3. For the next 2 steps position and hold the PKU module (Screw side) towards the front of the ignition barrel (key cylinder)
4. Using a jumper wire, power up vehicle ignition, without starting vehicle. After approx. 7 secs, the THEFT light comes ON solid. THEFT light will then flash and return back to solid to indicate the PKU module is now programmed sucessfully.
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The last step where is says jumper a wire to power the vehicle ignition, do they mean splice a wire to the +12 volt and splice the other end to the ignition wire? Wouldn't that start the car?

Has anybody that has used the keyless bypass had to do this method of programming the module?

it's the same as the PKU-CH bypass module they sell, personally I'd wonder if they both work the same, but thats not the question here...

What you need to do is just that, power up the vehicles ignition, so jump power from 12+ constant to your ignition wire, I personally use a high current switch to make my life easier, but all you need to do is use a wire to send power to the ignition circuit of the car. This won't start the car, you would need to power the starter wire of the car as well. This is akin to turning the key to the run position except being the accessory circuit isn't powered up.

Just a warning on this, they rarely work the first time, at least in my experience, so be prepared to do it more then once. I wouldn't reccomend that you use the UTI from them in case this won't program for you, it's got it's own problems.

I'm installing a remote starter on my 2004 LS and I can't find the tachometer wire. I have two wire diagrams.

One says it a white wire (AC) located at the Engine speed dectection connector (a single pin connector in the fuse/relay box under the hood).
- I can't find the single pin connector. Would the white wire be below the fuse box?"

The other one says the tachometer is NOT BLACK/ white or black (ac) located at "any ignition coil"?
- Can't find the coil. I really don't even see the coil.

Anybody can help me? Any pics would be greatly appreciated.

What does the AC mean anyway?

Try:

Tach Signal

RED / WHITE

AT IGNITION COIL

U could use a Fuel Injection wire............usually the odd color

Example: Fuel injector has 2 wires. Most have 1 common color (same color wire at all Injectors) and the second wire is the odd color (different color wire at all Injectors)

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Thanks MO for the help. But I could only 3 of the injectors; the other 3 are located under the header. I was able to find the tach signal though. The new Galants come with multi-coils and they are located on top of each spark plugs. There are 3 wires for every coil, a BLACK, BLACK/ WHITE, and a colored one. Use the colored one for a tach signal. Some of the ones I have seen are BLUE/BLACK, PINK/BLACK, and ORANGE / BLUE.

DON'T use the wires on the fuel injectors; they didn't work.

I installed all the wires for my 2004 Galant (V6) and I can remote start it but the starter will not stop running. I think I have to redo the wiring but will do that another day, but I wanted to get any ideas that anybody may have from experience with the wierd problem.

There is only one starter wire and I cut it to set up the starter kill feature that my AstroStart 3106. One wire went to the starter side and the other went to the starter ignition side.

Check your tach........ this is the wire that shuts off the starter for no grind.....

Tach wire.......pink/black.....one cyl. found at the ECM...bottom conector K............ I rarely use the starter dis-able

good luck

where did U get the Unit? R U A dealer?

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TACH......ECM bottom conector, under the hood drivers side. PINK/BLACK

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You def have a bad tach signal.

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thanks guys will look into it.

KarTunMan, I got the unit at a dealer/installer store about an hour away from me. I'm not a dealer though. Thanks for the help. I will look for this wire tomorrow morning. How do I test to see if I have the right wire. I have a digital multimeter.

Tach wire should read around 6 volts AC

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moshpitmickey

Tach wire should read around 6 volts AC and increases

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moshpitmickey

the wire should read around 6 volts AC and increase with engine RPM.

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moshpitmickey

you have to make sure you learn that tach signal to the alarm as well so it knows to stop cranking

either bad tach or your alarm hasn't gone threw the proper learn prociedure, you may have an ajustment screw instead of a learning cycle, check your install manual on how to program the alarm,

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Bad Boys Customs
audio - video - security

If you use it. Suport it. Donate to the 12 volt!

or you may have a separate wire to hook to a 12V constant source. we did some BS Nitro alarm and it would crank the starter for a full 3 seconds even though the car had already started. Saw that there was another wire that had to be connected to 12V constant source and it would use that to detect the "voltage" for a correct voltage start.

Alarm didn't have a tach wire.

U might want to make sure you didn't hook up an Ignition wire to the Start wire

Starter

BLACK / YELLOW

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I got a picture of what wire to use from KarTuneMan and I just hooked it up tonight and I still get the starter going after starting. I did have another wire that needed 12 volts and that was already connected. I tried the learn tach programming like 5 times, thinking maybe there was something I kept doing wrong. The manual says that it takes 4 seconds to learn tach: Set the dip switches (1,5,6, & 7 to up for my model Astrostart-3106), start the car with the key, and apply the brakes. The tach should go to the learn mode then flash the number of cylinders that the car is. But it doesn't flash 6 real flashes, but it keeps flashing like it reading something. Then I cut off the car and put the dip switches on all down and apply the brakes to save all changes.

oh the pink/black tach wire that I used was reading 0.3-0.4 volts AC at idle and went as high as 1.0 volts AC.

Grab the injector wire instead of the PINK/BLACK wire. This is a 1 cylinder signal and works with all remote starts that I do. The injector wire will be the uncommon color wire at the injector. Sounds like the tach is not learning properly if your not getting the proper light flashes after you attempt the learn procedure.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Well according to the picture that says it's the tach wire, it also says "Tach Wire Pink/Black Set at 1 cyl." Isn't this wire good enough too? Plus I tried the odd colored fuel injector wire and the remote start would not start at all. The led diagnostic read that there is no tach signal.

I've done a few of these vehicles and used the injector wire and didn't have any problems. I used a Compustar unit ( 1WAM-S ) though. Do you have an alternator sensing wire that you can use instead of the tach wire input ?

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

No. Well it doesn't list that in the installation manual as being an alternate or available wire. I will try the odd fuel injection wire again tomorrow. Thanks for all you help though; I really appreciate it.

Here's another alternative for the 3.0 L engine for a tach signal:

WHITE at the test connector on the engine relay box under the hood. This is a 6 cylinder signal.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

You know what, I saw that listed somewhere, but it also said it was a single connector. I couldn't find a white wire in the engine relay box. All the wires run under the realy box and I can't tell which one is a single connector at that. I'll try and check later on today to see if I can see it.

I finally got it!!! I actually gave up 3 weeks ago, then I read something while I was looking for a new starter/alarm, thinking the one I got was defective or something. I was using a 1 cyl tach wire, but the auto learn didn't work for me. I was then trying to set it manually using the 5-6 cyl setting because my car is a 6 cyl. I didn't know that the diff't cylinders were for the tach reading and not the actual # of cyl. my car has (DOOOH!!!!!). So since the tach reading was coming from a 1 cyl reading, I set it to manually read that, and it started and disengaged the starter fine.

So to tell others, and I think this would be right in saying, if you are getting the signal from 1 cyl and auto learn doesn't seem to work, set the 1 cyl. manually and see what happens. If I'm wrong here, please correct it.

I want to thank you guys here that helped me. Don't worry; I'm not done connecting everything, so you'll here from me soon.

posted this in the wrong thread, sorry.

Ye-Haw....good job!

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I have pretty much finished my install but I still have a couple of questions. One being that I have a keysense wire from the alarm that must be a negative cirucit only. The wire I have to connect it to, yellow wire, is an open cirucit. Do I just connect it? How do I convert an open circuit to a negative circuit?