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1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager Locks

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=52491
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 9:07 AM


Topic: 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager Locks

Posted By: 1883atlantics
Subject: 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager Locks
Date Posted: March 24, 2005 at 8:52 AM

Hi, newbie here, sorry if this has been covered. I tried searching for info on this problem but all I found was the wiring diagram for my van. It's a 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE. It came with power locks, but they don't work now. I've been told it's a bad BCM by the previous owner. The power windows work, as does the rest of the interior lighting, etc. that the BCM normally controls. I checked for voltage at the switch (driver's) and there is some there, but I don't know how much I should be looking for. I've found the Junction Box (which sits on top of the BCM) but I don't know which relay connects the locks to the BCM.  What I want to know is, how can I troubleshoot my system to fix it, OR how can I convert the lock system in there now to a stand-alone system and integrate a car alarm so I can have remote keyless entry? Thanks for any input.

Jeff




Replies:

Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: March 24, 2005 at 10:18 AM
Jeff,

The power locks not working can be a combination of variables. The locks motor itself, BCM, internal relays,...etc.

I would go through the fuse box first to make sure all the fuses are working. Checking the locking motor and relay is the next least painful thing to do. Motor is in the door. The relay will be sitting on the driver side plastic panel. They are a bunch of black square box. If you are uncomfortable with all that. The next best thing is get yourself an actuator(locking and unlocking motor mechanism) and two relays and just put in a new one. Here is a diagram to show you how to wire up the actuator to the alarm unit.

posted_image

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: 1883atlantics
Date Posted: March 25, 2005 at 11:48 AM

thepencil wrote:

Jeff,

The power locks not working can be a combination of variables. The locks motor itself, BCM, internal relays,...etc.

I would go through the fuse box first to make sure all the fuses are working. Checking the locking motor and relay is the next least painful thing to do. Motor is in the door. The relay will be sitting on the driver side plastic panel. They are a bunch of black square box. If you are uncomfortable with all that. The next best thing is get yourself an actuator(locking and unlocking motor mechanism) and two relays and just put in a new one. Here is a diagram to show you how to wire up the actuator to the alarm unit.

posted_image

ok, so instead of messing with the Junction Box (where all the relays are plugged in to the BCM) I could just bypass that with your diagram, right? If the van has actuators (it must, it has factory power locks) can't I just use those? Or is it mandatory that I get new actuators and replace the Plymouth ones? Also, what benefit would I gain from buying an alarm that has the power door lock relays "built-in"? does that help? thanks!





Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: March 25, 2005 at 6:19 PM
"ok, so instead of messing with the Junction Box (where all the relays are plugged in to the BCM) I could just bypass that with your diagram, right?"

Correct


"If the van has actuators (it must, it has factory power locks) can't I just use those? Or is it mandatory that I get new actuators and replace the Plymouth ones?"


If you know the machanics of it and how they work. I don't see why not. For me I can probably put new actuators in $10 and have it working in less time than it is to figure how the original one works.   



" Also, what benefit would I gain from buying an alarm that has the power door lock relays "built-in"? does that help? thanks!"


You don't need to have an alarm if the feature that you are after is Keyless entry. You can get a keyless entry unit and they cost a bit less.

I have not use the built relay unit one before, so I cannot tell you the quality of it or if it is strong enough to do the job. $3 Standard relay is what I use and they have proven over time that they are very effective.


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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: 1883atlantics
Date Posted: March 28, 2005 at 9:37 AM

thepencil wrote:

"ok, so instead of messing with the Junction Box (where all the relays are plugged in to the BCM) I could just bypass that with your diagram, right?"

Correct

"If the van has actuators (it must, it has factory power locks) can't I just use those? Or is it mandatory that I get new actuators and replace the Plymouth ones?"

If you know the machanics of it and how they work. I don't see why not. For me I can probably put new actuators in $10 and have it working in less time than it is to figure how the original one works.   

" Also, what benefit would I gain from buying an alarm that has the power door lock relays "built-in"? does that help? thanks!"

You don't need to have an alarm if the feature that you are after is Keyless entry. You can get a keyless entry unit and they cost a bit less.

I have not use the built relay unit one before, so I cannot tell you the quality of it or if it is strong enough to do the job. $3 Standard relay is what I use and they have proven over time that they are very effective.

  Ok, please excuse my newbie-ness, but I want to make sure I have this straight in my head before I tear apart the van. According to your diagram, both relays get +12V, fused. Does that mean I need to put (1) 30amp fuse (for a 30amp SPDT relay) on the wire to the power source, or do I put (2) fuses on the line? Also, do contact 85/86 both go to the same wire from the alarm (the NEG. Unlock Output)? And contact 30 on both relays goes to the actuators POS. lead, right? Sorry, sometimes I'm too detail-oriented for my own good.

  Jeff





Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: March 28, 2005 at 12:28 PM
"Ok, please excuse my newbie-ness, but I want to make sure I have this straight in my head before I tear apart the van."

Don't worry about it. Everyone here started out the same way, including myself.



" According to your diagram, both relays get +12V, fused."


Correct!



" Does that mean I need to put (1) 30amp fuse (for a 30amp SPDT relay) on the wire to the power source, or do I put (2) fuses on the line?"


One fuse for both will do the job.



" Also, do contact 85/86 both go to the same wire from the alarm (the NEG. Unlock Output)?"


Connect the lock wire to one relay and connect the unlock wire to the other relay.


" And contact 30 on both relays goes to the actuators POS. lead, right?"



Correct, how the motor works is one wire will get a positive current going through it while the other wire will receive a negative currect. In order to have a complete circuit you have to have a positive and a negative connection. That means you have to connect the negative side of the actuator as well. Take the actuator motor and try it out yourself. Put some + and -to it you will see the actuator moving in and out. Now if you look at how the relay is set up you will be able to understand the theory behind it and how it works.       



" Sorry, sometimes I'm too detail-oriented for my own good."


Detail is good, the more the better. It takes away the guessing when other are trying to help you out.




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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image





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