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Using Amp 12V Source for Alarm/Starter?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=53537
Printed Date: April 16, 2024 at 12:10 AM


Topic: Using Amp 12V Source for Alarm/Starter?

Posted By: vseth
Subject: Using Amp 12V Source for Alarm/Starter?
Date Posted: April 08, 2005 at 10:47 AM

I'm installing a alarm/starter on my Toyota Corolla 1998 LE, I have to bring in the 12V constant directly from my battery, since I plan to attach a window open module, and possibly neon lights and light source for the glove compartment as well. Since everything is already opened up, I also decided to put in the rough-in wiring for future speaker upgrades, and likely installation of an mono-amp for a sub. So here's the question, would it be ok to take in the power for the alarm/starter from the 12V constant wiring that I'm running to the trunk for the sub amp ?




Replies:

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: April 08, 2005 at 11:46 AM
Yes, I have done it many times... Never any problems... I actually put a fused terminal block IN my power cable under the dash, just for the alarm system. This way there are no little bitty wires at the battery, providing a cleaner look to your overall installation, and *IF* you were to ever blow an alarm fuse, you stay clean while changing it... (ok, so that's not a huge selling point) Also, the chance of somebody being able to reach up under your hood and yank the wires specifically for the alarm is minimized. Also, you can become ever more creative with your alarm install, without having to be reigned in by the fairly short wires provided by the alam manufacturer.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: vseth
Date Posted: April 14, 2005 at 4:58 PM

In your connections, how did you connect  the alarm system without using the power distribution/termination blocks near the dash. Most ot the power distribution blocks are 4g to multiple 8g, and are meant for the terminating point. Whereas, i just need a T connection for the alarm system, with the 4g power wire going from the battery to the trunk. Plus, the since the distribution blocks are mostly 8g outputs for a 4g input, that's way too big for my alarms 12g power wire. What I really need is a distribution block with 4g or 8g input, and providing 10g to 16g outputs, for the little power suckets like alarms, aux lights, or leds. Can't see it being easy or clean to connect/solder the 12g to a 4g or 8g. Any ideas here ?






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