Clarification on wire voltage

I am doing some preliminary wire probing in prep for the installation.  My vehicle is a 2003 Dodge Ram without the factory alarm.  Please help answer these questions:  1.  I was probing for the accessory wires (ignition harness)and located the BLACK/ wht that reads 12 volts in the accessory position and in the run position and goes to 0 when starting(and without the key -not constant).  The second accessory wire was orange and shows 0 volts in accessory position and 12 in run and goes to 0 during start (and without key).  Is this correct for the 2nd accessorry wire?  I could not find another wire in the ignition bunch that acted like the BLACK/ wht wire.   Number 2 question:  I was probing the dook lock wire which is a single WHITE/ green wire.  Without moving the switch it reads about 4.8 volts.  When the door lock switch is moved, the voltage drops about 1 volt or so to about 3.2 volts.  Is this correct?  My install guide says this wire should read 12 volts at no movement not 4.8.  Question number 3:  Is it acceptable to use the yellow/blue (+) wire in the driver's side A pillar as an all door trigger instead of using the 4 independent door triggers and isolating them all with diodes?   Thanks in advance.  I ordered a crimestopper 2016FM alarm and will install it next week.

Alan

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Alan

OR U could try this........................

Constant 12 volts	PINK/BLACK RED / WHTITE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts	BLUE 16 gauge	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS *
Starter	YELLOW	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light	BROWN (-)	DRIVER A PILLAR (TECH NOTE)
Trunk Pin Switch
Parking Lamp	BLACK / YELLOW (+)	AT RELAY BOX UNDER HOOD **
Power Lock	WHITE/ DARK GREEN	14 PIN CONNECTOR IN DRIVER
Power Unlock	SINGLE WIRE SYSTEM	KICK PANEL ***

* USE THE SMALL GAGE BLUE WIRE! ** BLACK / YELLOW (+) At Relay Box Under Hood Or At Parking Light. *** WHITE/ DARK GRN Wire Must See Ground Through 820 Ohm Resistor For Lock And Ground Through 330 Ohm Resistor For Unlock.Alt: 220 Ohms. Confermed By More Than One Source The 220 Ohm Worked On Unlock. 
Single Wire Resistor Door Lock Circuit

Accessories
Window Up	D\ LT BLU P\ BRN/WHT D\ BLU/WHT P\ GRY/WHT @ DRIVER DOOR MODULE
Window Down	F/ WHITE F/ VLT/WHT R/ RED / BLK R/ GRN/WHT
Ign Key Warn	BLACK/ DK GRN (-)	IGNITION HARNESS
Trunk Release
OEM Horn	BLACK/ RED (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights	PURPLE / YELLOW (-)	SEE TECH NOTES
OEM Alarm Arm	LT GRN/ORANGE	DRIVER KICK PANEL *
OEM Alarm Disarm	SINGLE WIRE SYSTEM

*LT GRN/ORANGE-Arm/Disarm Must See A Ground Pulse thru a 1.5K Ohm Resistor To Arm/Lock and a Ground Thru A 550 Ohm Resistor To Disarm/Unlock Use Double Pulse Unlock. (Installer has Reported 249 Ohm Resistor For Disarm) 
Reversal Rest At Positive Power Window Circuit

Remote Start
Tach Signal	TAN/RED	IGNITION COIL
Ignition #2	RED / WHITE 16ga*	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS(TRANS CON)
Ignition #3	DARK GREEN	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (BLOWER)**
Accessory	BLACK/ WHITE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral Safety
Brake Light	WHITE/ TAN	AT SWITCH ABOVE PEDAL
Reverse Light	VIOLET/BLACK (+)	64 PIN CONNECTOR UNDER HOOD***
Rear Window Defrost

* Also Has Been Noted As RED. **Ignition # 4 : ORANGE Ignition Switch Harness Air Bag Control Module. *** 64 Pin Connector Located On Firewall By Driver Fender VLT/BLK pin # B7
Transponder By Pass Circuit  If Key is GREY-Vehicle has Transponder, If Key is Black-Vehicle Does Not Have Transponder

OMEGA MULTI ByPASS Unit........DB-CHDL-3-PK
OMEGA Door Lock Kit Only...........DLR-U

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Ok, so to hook up the remote start 6-pin high current connector it would go like this:

Pin 1: Starter output to the yellow wire

Pin 2: Accessory (Heat/AC) to the Dark Green (Blower) wire

Pin 3 and Pin 4: +12 volt to the pink/black and RED / wht wires

Pin 5: Ignition 1 to the Blue 16 guage wire

Pin 6: Ignition or Accessory #2 output to the RED / white ignition #2 wire and hook up the accessory BLACK/ white wire together with pin 2 using a relay?

Does this look right?  Also, any answers on questions 2 and 3 from original post?  Thanks again,

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Alan

I think I have figured it out.  I read another post that was similar to my problem (imagine that).  Anyway, I will plan on wire the remote starter like this....  In the 6 pin high current connector.  The start wire to the dodges yellow.  The ACC wire to the dodges orange and green wires using a relay plus the alarms blue/black as a negative ignition output on the relay.  The two 12v + wires to the dodges pnk/blk and RED / wht wires.  The IGN wire to the dodges Blue 16 awg wire (the thicker blue wire - right?).  And finally the alarms IGN#2 wire to the dodges RED / wht or red wire.  Does this sound/look correct?

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Alan

It says 27 pages of gobbly gook....  I have read it a thousand times.   My issue is identifying the correct Dodge Ram wires to match the alarms.  For instance, The Dodge has orange and green accessory wires which I'm guessing power the heat/air.  But it also has a blk/wht accessory wire that powers the radio when the key is in the accessory position.  I'm assumming the blk/wht does not need to be connected for the remote start to operate. 

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Alan

I went to www.bulldogsecurity.com and downloaded their 03 Dodge Ram wiring diagram.  In the research I've done...it is the best and most accurate.  It properly identifies the IGN 1 and 2 wires as well as the ACC 1 and 2.   Does anyone know if the voltage from the door lock/unlock wire I mentioned in the original post is correct?  Also, question number 3 above as well.  Thanks for all the help.

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Alan

in response to your 3rd question, you cannot use the dome light wire in this application because of the delay that it has.  The dome light stays on for 15 sec or so after the door is closed, the alarm will read this as a door being open and will bypass the door trigger during its arming sequence.   Use the separate door triggers and diode isolate them indivuidually.

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Life moves pretty fast; if you don't stop and look around once in a while; you could miss it.

Thanks, I'll plan on using the 4 separate door triggers.  Does anyone know what the advantage is to connect the horn.  Isn't the siren enough?  Why would you want the horn and siren going off or chirping?  I'm confused???

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Alan

<<<<   Does anyone know if the voltage from the door lock/unlock wire I mentioned in the original post is correct? >>>>>

YES..........It is correct, but I am NOT sure why you need that information.  Door Lock / UNLock is a RESISTOR type Install and you need to supply a Ground thru the proper resistor for the Lock / Unlock to work

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Thanks MO.  I was using a DMM to check the wires and the install guide I was referncing said the door locks would read 12 volts at rest and the change when switched to lock/unlock.  So when I got a different reading it made me think I might have picked the wrong wire.  Any opinion on the horn question above?

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Alan

Depends on how NOISY U want it............Some nieghborhoods U only hear Siren..........Y not be different?

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

One more quick question...  The green wire for accessory #1, the only green wire in the ignition bundle is like 12 or 14 guage thick.  I used a DMM on it and it seems correct.  I just want to insure this is the correct "green" wire.  Any help is appreciated.  My alarm system arrives today so I'll be installing it tonight.

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Alan

Good news...sort of.  I installed the crimestopper 2016FM last night and programmed it this morning.  I am having two small Hopefully correctable issues.  For future references- I wired the parking lights with a 330 ohm resistor.  The wiring diagram said use either a 330 or 1400 ohm resistor.  I chose the 330 which isn't working.  The parking lights are not flashing and I noticed that when I disarm the system and open the door, the dash lights are on and the key in the ignition sound is beeping.  I'm hoping after re-wiring the parking lights with a 1400 ohm resister it will work correctly.  The second issue I am having is with the LCD paging remote.  It is only working about 20% of the time.  The extra sidekick (non-paging) remote works fine so I am thinking the LCD remote is bad.  I'm am going to work with it some more before I try to exchange it.  Other than that the remote start and alarm system is working great.  If anyone thinks that the 1400 ohm resistor will not fix the parking light issue then please let me know.  Also...thanks 12volt members for helping with my questions.

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Alan

Well I gave up on the resistor's at the headlight switch.  I couldn't get it to work properly.   So I went with a 12 volt + signal and ran a wire directly to the parking lights + wire under the hood.  It was much easier and took less than 10 minutes to get it hooked up.  I also fixed the LCD remote.  I bravely took it apart and straightened out the spring antenna.  I also tried it outside of the case and it worked great.  So I figured the plastic case was causing it to work erratically.  Anyway once I carefully put it back into the plastic case and closed it up...it works perfect.  I'm getting like 3000 feet range.  I suspect the remotes case was either pinching the circuit board or the wire antenna was grounding out.  Anyone know?  I'm just happy to get everything working.  Also just FYI, crimestoppers tech support was easy to get ahold of and talk to.  They were going to replace it for me but I really didn't want to send it in.  I'll keep my fingers crossed that it is now Ok.

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Alan