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Viper 791 XV on 04’ Elantra

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=54883
Printed Date: May 29, 2024 at 8:42 PM


Topic: Viper 791 XV on 04’ Elantra

Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Subject: Viper 791 XV on 04’ Elantra
Date Posted: April 30, 2005 at 8:00 PM

I'm trying to install a Viper 791XV alarm on my 04 hyundai elantra and I was wondering if I need to add relays to the domelight and the parking light wires. 

I have the wire color information. It shows what the + and - parking light wires are and I'm not sure what to connect it to.  There is a + for the left and a + for the right parking lights.  There is only one negative thow.  The negative is on the ETACM modual which I've located and the positives are on the fuse box.

Where should I connect the light flash output and should I use a relay.  The yellow wire for the domelights comes out of the ETACM modual as well as the fuse box.  Do I need a relay if I connect it to the ETACM? This is my first alarm install by my self but I am MECP certified. It just goes to show how valuable that test is.  I passed the test with and 84.



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Poly Dollies



Replies:

Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: April 30, 2005 at 8:31 PM
I did a search but it was a bit hard to find that info. I've stayed away from alarms but I do like connecting the rest of the equipment. I guess I will have to use a relay for the domelights but will I need one for the parking lights? I don't remember the guy that connected my brothers and sisters alarm ever adding a relay to the parking lights.

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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Autoobsession
Date Posted: April 30, 2005 at 9:12 PM
Viper systems have both a - and + light output. You dont need a relay for it. From factory it comes + output and to change it all u need to do is switch a jumper on the systems brain.

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Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: April 30, 2005 at 11:45 PM
So I can choose if I want to connect the positive or the negative side of the parking lights. That doesn't sound right. Which one should I connect it to; the positive or the negative? I hope I can get it done this weekend.

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Poly Dollies




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 1:43 AM

I have a manual transmission car so I'm not going to install the remote start portion of it right now.  That's more than half of the wires on the alarm I no longer need to worry about.  I think I'll just install the basic components since it's my first alarm

So far I have:  (-) door trigger input,  chassis ground,  siren output,  lock and unlock outputs, LED,  valet/program button,  Antenna/Receiver,  and the shock sensor

I'm not sure were to connect the constant power since I want to take advantage of my dual battery set-up (one is in the trunk).  Should I splice into the heavy guage wires connecting my two batteries or should I just connected to the ignition harness since you actually have to cut the wire from the front battery to separate the fuse panel from the rear battery.

Should I connect anything else.  I plan on just connecting the parking lights and the domelights tomorrow.  Hopefully it'll work since I have school on monday.



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Poly Dollies




Posted By: nava94
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 1:49 AM
no bobk that was his 130th post and he wrote he is MECP certified not mecp certfed.okay bro you could connect it to either one. In the + position the onboard relay on the alarm is enabled and the alarm will output +12v on the white wire.  If the light flash polarity jumper inside the alarm you set it to - then the on board relay is disabled and the white wire will supply a - 200ma output suitable for driving factory parking light relays.go for positive grab your digital meter and test the wire you think is the positive parking light wire. when you turn the parking light on the meter should read 12volts and when you turn the parking lights off it should drop to zero. make sure you lower the dimmer switch when the lights are on and check to see the 12volts on your meter does not drop 2volts or more cause that is not the wire you want, the voltage should not change that much when you play with the dimmer switch.good luck. 




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 2:23 AM
Do I have to connect both the left and right (+) parking lights or just one because it sais there is a different wire for each side.  Is it easier to connect the hazard lights.

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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 10:47 AM
Just use the (-) parking light wire ( BLUE ) at the switch or at the ETACM in the 16 pin plug at the wire is located at pin 14. The ETACM (Electronic Time and Alarm Control Module) is in the center console, behind the A/C controls. Change the jumper on the CPU to (-) output and your set. If you use the (+) setting you will need to grab two wires one for the left and one for the right of the car ( much like the european vehciles with isolated parking light wires.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 11:06 AM

I'll give that a try today.  I was wondering if there is a selenoid at the positive side of the lights.  If there is one then it should be closed for current to pass through the lights and then to ground right.  If I connect the negative side of the lights will there be a complete circuit or will I just be opening a ground while the selenoid on the positive side is open.

I have no clue how the lights work.  Can someone explain or direct me to another forum topic.



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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 11:26 AM

The way lights work is that on the light switch there is a (-) trigger wire that sends a ground signal to a relay that activates the parking lights. When you tap into this (-) trigger wire with the Viper system's (-) parking light trigger, the lights will activate.

On the flip side, the (+) activation goes on the other side of the relay and requires a (+) to activate the parking lights, but the system is isolated to left & right so you need two relays for each side to activate the parking lights.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 1:38 PM
Wow. my parking light work now. Thanks.

The domelights are not working so well. When I disarm the alarm the dome light turns on really dim and stays dim for a while if I don't open the door. Do I need to connect a relay to this wire? I connected it to the ETACM, 20 pin plg, pin 11 white wire.

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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 6:43 PM

What you need to do is use the dome light trigger wire from the unit and wire it into a relay like the first diagramon this link :  https://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/105.jpg

The dome light circuit requires a high current ground and the output of the alarm system is only a low level output ( 200 - 250 mA ).



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 10:14 PM

I connected a relay for the domelights like in that diagram and it works great.

I'm having problems with my shock sensor.  When I hit the car it doesn't activate the alarm.  I sat inside the car and and actually moved the sensor and I did see the red light blink on the sensor but the alarm did not engage.  I recieved a page with the shock sensor displayed but the alarm did not go off.  I'll check other post to see it this is common.



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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 11:02 PM

Wow, your having a bad install on that Hyundai aren't you ?? posted_image 

For the shock sensor, how long after the systems arms do you wait until you try to activate the system ? Some systems have a 30 second to 1or 2 minute wait time before the sensor's will activate the alarm. Check to see if there's a time frame on the system that you have first by arming the system and waiting about 5 minutes and then try to hit the car.

If this still doesn't work, try to relocate the sensor to a larger loom of wires or directly onto the frame of the car or where there's metal. I've heard some people say that metal interfere's withthe sensor, but I haven't had this happen to any of the install's that I've done with a shock sensor installed onto a metal surface. Try it out and post your results



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 11:23 PM

I think I already tried everything you said.  I had dinner with the alarm armed and went back and progressively taped my pillars.  I saw the red light blink on the sensor but the alarm didn't go off.  I was thinking it was a bad sensor but I am getting paged with the shock sensor messege.  I tried different mounting locations and it still didn't activate the alarm.

I connected the basic stuff so the alarm would work but I did not connect any of the ignition harness wires.  You need to insert the key to program some of the fetures and to reset some warnings right.  Maybe the brain has some code in it's memory that's not allowing it to activate the alarm.  To get rid of the nuisense prevention think do you need to turn on the ignition.

I think that's it.  The nuisense protection thing came on so the alarm doesn't turn on.  I don't want the remote start option so what other wires do I need to connect to make the alarm work right?  I think I already posted what I've connected.



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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 01, 2005 at 11:33 PM

Sounds like it might be a bad CPU. Just throwing ideas out right now. I'm not familair witht he system so I'm not sure if there's programming issues or not. Have you tested to see if the trigger is throwing a (-)signals to the CPU ?



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: hurtado_roberto
Date Posted: May 02, 2005 at 1:09 AM
is it supposed to be sending a (-) signal?  The alarm is hidden in my car now so I won't be able to work on it untill next weekend.  I hope it's not a bad brain.  I bought it along time ago from ebay.  Do you think the nuisance control on the viper could also be the problem because the alarm did go off the first few times.  I guess I forgot to mention that.  Will it reset after time or do I have to connect the ignition wires.  If I do, do you guys know which ones.

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Poly Dollies




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 02, 2005 at 6:44 AM
Won't hurt to try to reset the unit. Try and find out if the trigger is sending a (-) signal to the CPU first and go from there.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: chungo
Date Posted: May 02, 2005 at 11:37 AM

Di you connect the pink wire to the ign wire of the car






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