Astra 777 Door lock problem

ScyTek Electronics Astra 777 Door lock problem

Hi every one
I’m having a major 3-day headache problem trying to get this alarm to work on my aftermarket 2 wire actuators on a 92’ford ranger, I wired Bosch 12v. 30A SPDT relays, according to the Diagram on their site and my manual. The first try it blew the fuse. I tried another wiring Diagram from here, it unlocked soon as I wired it and wouldn’t lock at all. Pushing down on the door lock button only popped up again by itself, the remote didn’t do any thing. Does any one know of a fix for my problem here? I hope so, I’m not working know and can’t afford to buy a different brand name alarm. Is there a way I can test the negative lock/unlock wires to see if any power is flowing? And some was telling me that the Yellow Alarm wire has to be hooked to my wiring harness that shows power when key is on and when cranking and no power when off, it doesn’t say this in the manual, it reads, must show + 12v when The ignition is on. So I have the yellow wire running of the fuse box. Would this make any difference?

This wiring diagram didn’t work
https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#arp

the catuators are conflicting on the central locking both sides control one another when you close one the other is open so it actuates and puts in back up. also the lock and unlock on the alarm are negatives so depending on what way you'se wires the doors or what way the kit was wired you could have positive triggers.

Need more info did you have another thread on this already

Heay, thanks for the quick reply:

I’m not sure what you are saying when you say “conflicting” what is there to conflict with one another, because I have both actuators wired green on green (Negative lock) and blue on blue (Negative unlock) and when I wire them up as the diagram says, soon as I hook the last wire the (Positive fused) the actuators constantly have power to them and I didn’t even touch the remote to do this, the remote will not lock or unlock. I installed other alarms before, never having any problems not until installing this Astra 777alarm system.

Yes my alarm has Negative outputs the (blue - and green) - that is what I hooked the actuators to, it was a simple hook-up to the relay on the diagram, but it doesn’t work the way their diagram is written.

The kit only consists of a green wire lock and a blue wire unlocks, it doesn’t get any simpler than this? I just don’t get it. I should’ve stuck to the major brand name alarms. I think these alarms are not good as the major brands that been around for a while.

Thanks for the help.

No AutoZone’s, Parts Express relays BOSCH 20/30 A 5-Pin 30 85 86 87a 87
I used my old relays from an old install, I though maybe they were pitted or broke
as of not working properly, so I bought some new Boschs and so I having the same problems.

sorry i didn't quite get you i thought you got a central locking kit. not just atuators.

I'm sorry if i confused you.

As for the Astra i thought that they where a pretty decent' alarm.. excellent value for money.

I done another scytek alarm and it was grand not a bother

can you post the diagram that your working off so i can see it

I'll try a diagram for you and see if it shows up.
no image, it's to large, it's over the 30 KB.

oh well thanks anyways, it's getting to frustrating.
i'm just going to rip it out and sell somethingds and good different alarm

I wonder if it is the alarm or the installer. I have my doubts it is the alarm in this case.

a quick test of the alarm outputs will tell you if the alrm is functioning correctly. Test the DL outputs.

don't give up man. mail me the diagram at powermyster(at)hotmail(dot)com

What are DL outputs how would go about testing this?

Test the green and blue DL (door lock) wires. They send a (-) pulse when you hit the button.

Use a DMM and put the red lead on 12V and the negative lead on the lock wire. Hit the lock button on the remote and see if the DMM jumps to 12V. If it does, then the output is good and you have wired your relays incorrectly, have a bad connection, or the wrong wires.

Cool thanks, I have one of them meters, it never crossed my mind to use it,But on the other hand, I wouldn’t know what went where; thanks to you I can do this tomorrow and check the outcome on it.

Make sure to set the DMM correctly. Set it to 20 on the DC scale. I can't believe you are even attempting an alarm/KE without using a DMM or computer safe test light. You could risk damaging circuitry in your car by connecting incorrect wires.

Some things are best left to the PROs

That’s how I installed the alarm so far with my DC meter to figure out the wiring Along with the test light, I don’t know everything but I’m learning. I hooked a couple Clifford’s and DEI’s with no problems with all the bells and whistles

I don’t know about the astra’s, are they different in sophistication? Maybe, it really got the best of me. I get to frustrated, not good when doing alarm hook-ups

Appreciate the help.

OhioMike1101 wrote:

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Test the green and blue DL (door lock) wires. They send a (-) pulse when you hit the button.

Use a DMM and put the red lead on 12V and the negative lead on the lock wire. Hit the lock button on the remote and see if the DMM jumps to 12V. If it does, then the output is good and you have wired your relays incorrectly, have a bad connection, or the wrong wires.

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Well I did what you said with my DC Meter, the alarm is the culprit. I tried the green wire lock output and it pulsed to 12volts for about 2seconds when I pressed the alarm button…no problem there, soon as I tried the negative lead on the blue unlock output the needle jumped to a Constant 12volt all by itself.

So that was blowing my fuses and it finally fried my actuators. That sucker unlock blue wire was getting constant 12volt juice. I knew for sure I had the relays wired correctly, I checked, rechecked, checked again and again, and trying other relays, so it was the alarm from the start. Everything else was working fine except for the door-locking headache.

What would be some of the causes for that to happen to this wire? I assume there’s no way around that to make that door side lock work again?

The warranty is still good for it, I only hope they will take it back for another one.
At least I can quite trying to figure out wants wrong with it and take a bottle of Tylenol and get some rest. Thanks for the help.

scytek are usually pretty good. should have no probs getting another

At the risk of offending you, I sold that exact model last year and generally found them to be udder trash. I replaced so many of them under warenty due to manufacturing defects that it was rediculous. I wish I had seen your post earlier because I could have told you that your problem was the brain. I have seen this happen before. I hope your new one works good for you and lasts.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Really, I not sure if I want to replace it with another after hearing that, maybe a refund, but, then again I like the features it has, I might take a chance on another one?

Just wondering what you said about you had replaced them from warranty
Did you replace any one alarm more than once for the same person?

Well I went for a replacement alarm, I figure I’ll give it another try, if this on don't work I’ll get a refund for it. A couple of things that I didn't like was it took the warehouse a whole week to send me a ra Number to send the alarm back to them, and on top of that they made me pay for the shipping.

are they paying for the shipping back to you..

so what do you have to do now just plug in the brain..

Let us know what happens

Yes, shipping back to me is on their part

I have to rewire everything back up again once I get it back, I had to cut all my wire and tape them up and mark them with tape. I had most of my dashboard exposed; they wanted everything back including the harness. I wanted that harness intact...but they wanted it.

thats unusuall. i'm doing one fo those 777's next week i think or the week after i will most my findings

It wasn't bought from straight from the manufacture Scytek, it was some on-line place that sells them...

Buy yeh..curious if you run into any problems when you do your install.

well i'll let you know. how i get on with the 777 model..

Who did you buy from where they a decent company

They are called x10.com

They seemed like a good place to buy, (first time) good on their prices, lowest I found on the net and with free shipping, they are a little slow on their side
When it comes to problems, but I think it's mainly the warehouse folks that are kind of slacking off, other than that, they are helpful in taking care of any problems and questions to take care of stuff.

Try this.

ALARMTEK
RELAYHELP.COM

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Robert Martin/Owner
ALARMTEK ONLINE
www.ALARMTEKONLINE.com

Try this.

ALARMTEK
RELAYHELP.COM

-------------
Robert Martin/Owner
ALARMTEK ONLINE
www.ALARMTEKONLINE.com

Try this.

ALARMTEK
RELAYHELP.COM

-------------
Robert Martin/Owner
ALARMTEK ONLINE
www.ALARMTEKONLINE.com

I believe i have that one saved on my desktop

Thanks though....

What kind of vehichle do you have? Maybe there is a cold start or mux wire you have to connect to.

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infbaffle

There's nothing special about it to hook it up to a 92' ford ranger
4.0 fuel injected?pretty much straight foward regular instal.

There's nothing special about it to hook it up to a 92' ford ranger
4.0 fuel injected?pretty much straight foward regular instal.

Scytek does deal with the public if some one has any problems with their alarms.Only when you use their 1-888??????? number
they will answer any of your question(s) you and give you a fix for problem. They have done this for me several times. their 800 number is only for buying their products only.

Ok, here’s an update on my situation on the ScyTek Astra777 I finally received my replacement a new 777 so I benched test it using a power supply since i was having door lock problems along with some other minors Problems i was having. So know the new one really works quite well. I really like this alarm, it performed really well. So far It working of my psu for the last hour or so.


There is one Real problem; it’s the wiring diagram in the astra’s product manual And there’s no difference from their online PDF file when you download it.


When you go by that wiring diagram it simply won’t work [at least in my case it didn’t] and can possible fry your alarm brain and fry the innards of your actuators at the same time. ScyTek hasn’t changed that wiring diagram to reflect the right set-up when wiring Relays. I called them up and they gave me a different wiring diagram for relays that are For after market, with no kit, no switches, just the standard two wire hook up lock and unlock. So there you have it and wondering why your is not working check this out:


Run separate power for each Relay> Pin87 and 85 12volt 10amp..Pin 87a Ground..Pin 30 to Actuator… Pin 86 to alarm brain.


So if all you have is standing alone actuators, then wire it above to avoid any problems:

Did I simply get a lemon? When hooking it up like the product manual suggested, did that screw up the alarm? once i wired the new astra 777 differently than supposed to the product manual book it all went perfect. Go figure. What do you all think? But anyways just incase some one sees this, hope it helps you out. Thanks for all the input….help