Karr 4040A Wiring

Lets put this dog to sleep once and for all!!! I am getting some confusing informaiton on the wiring of a Karr 4040A system. The wire harness has 14 leads, and this is what I know so far:

Lead #

1. Red = 12V Constant Feed (Fused)

2. White = Parking Lights

3. Red\White Stirpe = Loop to 12V Constant Feed (Fused)

4. White\Black Stripe = Siren Output

5. Purple = (+) Door Trigger

6. Yellow = Ignition

7. Dark Grayish Color with White Stripe = ???????????????????

8. Black\White Stripe = Horn output (-)

9. Black = Ground

10.Orange =?????????????????

11. Brown = Door Trigger (-)

12. Light Green = ????????????????

13. Dark Green = ??????Trunk Tirgger??????????

14. Dark Green\Black Stripe = ????????????????

There is also a four wire lead ( red,green,red,blue ) that plugs into the side of the unit that I have no idea what it is for. Any information will be a big help!

Thanks  

:)

Four Pin Lead -

Red - (-) Lock Pulse or (+) Unlock Pulse

Green - (-) Unlock Pulse or (+) Lock Pulse

RED / Black - (-) Double Pulse Unlock

Dark Green - Trunk or hood

Orange - Armed output for starter interrupt

1. Red = 12V Constant alarm power

2. White = Parking lights output

3. Red\White Stirpe = Parking light selector. Cut this wire and connect it to a ground if using a (-) parking light, keep it connected for a (+) parking light

4. White\Black Stripe = Siren Output (+)

5. Purple = (+) Door Trigger

6. Yellow = Ignition

7. GREEN / WHITE = Domelight

8. Black\White Stripe = Horn output (-)

9. Black = Ground

10.Orange = Ground when armed

11. Brown = Door Trigger (-)

12. Light Green = Accessory input (-) trigger

13. Dark Green = (-) trunk trigger

14. Dark Green\Black Stripe = Accessory (-) output trigger. Must use relays

Four wire lead (red, green, red, blue) that plugs into the side of the unit.

Red = (-) lock motor

Green = (-) unlock motor

RED / Black = 2nd unlock

Blue = Trunk shunt

2pin:

red = (-) power lock

green = (-) power unlock

Um... Wrongo~!

Firstly.... The RED wire from the 4-pin molex does go to the unlock motor & NOT THE LOCK MOTOR... AND it goes to the (+) side of the motor... not (-)... AND it must only see the (+) of the DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK ONLY, and NOT the rest of the doors. 

Secondly.... The GREEN wire would, of course, go to the LOCK motor wires....... again to the (+) side, not negative.

Thirdly..... Yes, the RED / BLACK wire goes to the 2nd Unlock, but you neglected to mention that it needs to go the (+) side of the unlock motors that is seen ONLY when the second stage unlock is deployed... or when ALL doors unlock.(i.e. Upon initial press of factory transmitter Drivers Door Unlocks the wire you tag for the RED / Black wire must not see a positive pulse.

Fourthly.... although it's been a great deal of time, I can still vaguely remember when someone told me to tag the trunk shunt wire.  Sometimes it's nice to explain what that means;  the Blue wire of the 4-pinned molex will go the the wire that pulses (+) when the trunk button of the keyless entry transmitter is pressed.  This function will 'shunt' the alarm and prevent it from going into full alarm mode when the authorized user only intened to walk up and pop his trunk.  Hope this helps.

Shesaidshewas18.... Sometimes being a little c**ky and all too quick to try and correct someone can seriously confuse people if you're going to blurt out as many incorrect wire/assignments as you did in the prior thread.  Feel free to check your references before you try and 'help' someone.  Thanks.

I may as well add that the 4040a can be programmed to accommodate single stage unlock systems as well.  Unfortunately, I've seen many installers cheat by grounding the red black wire and programming the 4040 for single stage unlocking.  Unfortunately, they neglect to mention that all someone has to do to disarm the vehicle is smash the window and press the Unlock button on the door.  Many newer model vehicles, however, have a central locking system that goes to sleep after a short period of time rendering the door's unlock button useless.  

If you want to know the crappiest way to install an alarm to save you the most time go look at virtually any KARR ALARM installers work.  I cringe whenever I have to peek under a dash that Karr has molested.

Um... Wrongo~!

Firstly.... The RED wire from the 4-pin molex does go to the unlock motor & NOT THE LOCK MOTOR... AND it goes to the (+) side of the motor... not (-)... AND it must only see the (+) of the DRIVER'S DOOR LOCK ONLY, and NOT the rest of the doors. 

A thousand pardons... if you'll read the start of the sentence I stated the same.  Red goes to the Drivers door UNLOCK.   I finished the sentence by designating door location and not necessarily the wire.  I said "DRIVERS DOOR LOCK ONLY" inferring the drivers door lock system.  I admit that I made a typographical error... but it was just that.  I'm sure we can both agree that I know where the wire goes.

And you are a hundred percent correct.... I am wrong to label all KARR installers as subpar.  Two that come to mind are Lee Kanchana Lock and Octavian Bynum in the Sacramento area...  I have a tremendous amount of respect and reverence for Lee and have nothing bad to say about these two people.  Santiago in Concord gets my support as well.  Other than that, I just don't see the conistency in workmanship.

On any given day... on a car lot NOT SERVICED by the very very very few competant installers that KARR keeps under their thumb you'll peek under the dash and feel the shame and disgust for an obvious lack of concern or pride in workmanship at what KARR puts out.

KARR sucks.... on any 10 cars.... I'm certain 9 are damaged or the alarms just don't work correctly.  What do you expect from a company that takes advantages of their people?