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96 bonniville GM VATS resistor value

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=567
Printed Date: August 20, 2025 at 11:42 PM


Topic: 96 bonniville GM VATS resistor value

Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Subject: 96 bonniville GM VATS resistor value
Date Posted: May 01, 2002 at 10:58 PM

Hello room,

Need help on finishing up an alarm install on my car. Stuck on the resistor value needed to bypass the VATS. The key is measuring 1175. Do I have to measure from the actual module under the dash in the orange tubing containing the two white wires? Is it ok to use a 1000 ohm or a 1500 ohm which is included with the viper 550esp remote start? Also need to bypass the anti-teft by using the factory dis-arm wire from the alarm. Do I need to re-arm it for any reason or is it ok to keep it dis-armed? everything else is done, just need to finish this part before adding the starter kill and remote start. Any other suprise I should know about before finishing that you may know about? thanks for your help!!



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!



Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 5:06 AM

Pontiac

Bonneville

1996-1999

Remote Starter  Wiring Colors and Notes

Function

 

 

Vehicle  Color

Location

Start:

 

 

YELLOW

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **

Ignition  #1:

 

 

PINK

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition #2:

 

 

ORANGE

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition  #3:

 

N/A

Accessory:

 

 

BROWN

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Brake  Light:

 

 

L BLUE (+)

AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

Tach  Signal:

 

 

WHITE

AT IGNITION CONTROL MODULE *

Parking Lights:

 

 

BROWN (+)

AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

Headlights:

 

YELLOW (+)

AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH

OEM Alarm  Disarm:

 

L GREEN (-)

DRIVER KICK PANEL

OEM Alarm  Arm:

 

N/A

SEE NOTES BELOW

Diesel  Glow Plug:

 

Clutch  Bypass Wire:

 

Notes:

 * Ignition Control Module Located On Passenger Front Of Engine In Front Of Valve Cover. WHITE Wire Also Located In 116 Pin Connector Behind Driver Dash To Right Of Steering Column. ** This Vehicle Is Equipped With GM's VATS Anti-Theft System

Pontiac

Bonneville

1996-1999

Alarm and Keyless  Entry Wiring Colors and Notes

Function

 

Vehicle  Color

Location

Constant  +12 Volts:

 

 

RED (2)

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Starter  Kill:

 

YELLOW

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **

Ignition  +12 Volts:

 

 

PINK

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Dome  Lights/Superv:

 

 

WHITE (-)

AT COURTESY LIGHT *

OEM Horn:

 

BLACK (-)

STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

Power  Lock:

 

RED / BLACK

EITHER KICK PANEL ****

Power  Unlock:

 

ORANGE / BLACK

EITHER KICK PANEL ****

Trunk  Release:

 

BLACK (-)

AT TRUNK RELEASE SWITCH

Alarm  Input Wire:

 

WHITE (-)

AT COURTESY LIGHT *

Notes:

*** WHITE (-) Wire Also Located At Multi Function Alarm, Lock & Lighting Module (Mall) Located Behind Glove Box On Multi Use Bracket. Optional Door Trigger TAN (-) (Dr) & DK. BLUE (-) (All Other Doors) At Mall Module. Diode Isolation Needed, Cathode (Band) Faces OEM Wires. **** Negative Pulse Door Lock

This system uses a resistor in the key, use a digital volt meter set to ohms and put 1 lead on each side of the vats chip in the center of the key, find a resistor to match your reading.

Locate the Orange or Black tube running down the steering column from the ignition switch. Cut open the tube to epose the passkey wires insie. Your resistor or trumpet should be within +/- 10 ohms of the key. Either of the passkey wires can be cut. GM uses only a fixed number of different resistors with their PASSKEY/VATS system, your measurement should correspond to one of the following values.

390 Ohms1470 Ohms4750 Ohms
520 Ohms1800 Ohms6040 Ohms
680 Ohms2370 Ohms7500 Ohms
885 Ohms3010 Ohms9530 Ohms
1130 Ohms3740 Ohms11800 Ohms

You do not need to re-arm the factory system, just disarm the factory system when remote starting.Hope this helps and good luck.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 2:32 PM

THANKS JEFF I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT COMES OUT. I HAVE ANOTHER DUMB QUESTION? BEFORE THE REMOTE START IS ACTIVATED DOES THE ALARM HAVE TO BE DIS-ARMED AND THEN THE REMOTE START CAN BE ACTIVATED OR CAN I JUST ACTIVATE THE REMOTE START AND IT SHOULD THROW THE BYPASS THROUGH THAT ONE WIRE DIS-ARMING THE FACTORY ANTI-THEFT?

THANKS



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 2:41 PM

Hi Sound Pressure, you can remote start the vehicle with your aftermarket alarm armed or disarmed so long as you have the factory alarm disarming when starting by remote start. If you have any sensors (impact, glass breakage, etc) installed, just make sure you have them wired to be bypassed when the vehicle is running by remote start.

the12volt





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 3:47 PM

are you refering to the factory disarm or the unit that you are installing ? If you are refering to the factory alarm, the remote starter will disarm the alarm while it is remote started and when it has timed out or you have stopped the remote start sequence, it will re-arm itself.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 4:34 PM

I USED A POTENTIOMETER TO DUPLICATE THE RESISTOR VALUE. IT WAS AROUND 1172. IT SHOULD WORK THE SAME CORRECT? IF ANYTHING GOES WRONG IT SHOULD DISABLE FOR ABOUT 10-15 MINUTES RIGHT? EVERYTHING SHOULD GO SMOOTH NOW. THE MAIN THING WAS GETTING THE EXACT RESISTOR VALUE MATCH.

THANKS 12VOLT AND JEFF



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 6:43 PM
EVERYTHING WENT THROUGH PERFECT! NO PROBLEMS ON THAT END. ONE SMALL PROBLEM CONCERNING THE DOOR TRIGGER WHICH IS NEGATIVE AND HOOKED UP TO THE GREEN NEGATIVE DOOR TRIGGER AND DIODE ISOLATED TO THE TAN- AND THE D.BLUE- WIRES ON THE PASS KICK PANEL. THE QUESTION I HAVE IS THAT THE VALET BUTTON IN WHICH YOU USE TO PROGRAM THE ALARM IS NOT RESPONDING. THE ALARM WILL TRIGGER ON EVEN WHEN THE CAR IS ON. IS HAVING THE WRONG DIODES ABLE TO CAUSE THIS PROBLEM. I WAS SUPPOSE TO USE 4001 DOIDES. INSTEAD WHAT I HAD LAYING AROUND FROM A PREVIOUS INSTALL WAS TWO 6AMP RECTIFIERS, IN WHICH WAS NEEDED TO ISOLATE A BMWS PARKING LIGHTS. NOW KEEP IN MIND ALL DOORS WILL TRIGGER THE ALARM IF OPENED. INSTEAD OF THE ALARM TURNING OFF AS SOON AS YOU TURN THE IGNITION ON, THE ALARM STAYS ACTIVE. ALL 12 VOLT CONSTANT ARE HOOKED UP AS WELL AS THE YELLOW IGNITION WIRE COMING FROM THE STARTER KILL IN WHICH IS HOOKED UP TO THE ALARM.

-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: the12volt
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 6:57 PM

Hi Sound Pressure, verify that the alarm is getting 12V+ on the ignition lead to the alarm at the alarm when the key is in the on position. Your meter will tell you for sure. If all the doors are closed, regardless of what you used to isolate them, that should not be the cause of the problem. I'm willing to bet you do not have 12V+ at the alarm on it's ignition lead especially if it will arm when the key is on.

the12volt





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 7:03 PM

Check the connection at the plug for the valet switch ( if there is a plug ) to ensure a solid conection. Also you may want to check the continuity of the wires to make sure that there is no breaks in the wire. Another thing to make sure is taht there are no points of entry that are open that mey not allow you to enter the program mode. Check the instructions and make sure that you are doing it correctly.

THE ALARM WILL TRIGGER ON EVEN WHEN THE CAR IS ON. You mentioned this in your statement but is the alarm activating when you remote start ? OR is it activating after you get into the car and start driving ? Test the rectifier to ensure that there is no current going through the wire. If none is present then it's OK, but if there is you will need to place a diode in line. Make sure your switched ignition wire to the alarm is actually switching off when the key is in the OFF position.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 02, 2002 at 7:04 PM

THANKYOU 12 VOLT I WILL CHECK THAT TOMORROW AND LET YOU KNOW.

THANKS



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 05, 2002 at 4:36 PM

Hey room,

I've been checking all my wires these past couple days. I think i'm having a major "Brain Fart" I know I have the right ignition wires tested them over and over. I haven't put the remote start in yet because I want to resolve this problem before finishing the remote start. Everything else in the car is done. Now the actual problem is that when I close the doors and turn the car on the alarm will activate as if it were of.  When the alarm activates there is 12 volts at the ignition wire leading back to the alarm. I looked at another updated viper 550 esp that I have with the new remotes and it does not have the yellow ignition wire leading back to the alarm it's all at the relay. The spot is empty at the harness. So what I did was disconnected the yellow from the older alarm and copied it, still does the same thing. The valet as well is not working as well and I can guess it is because of the ignition wire not working. Now Jeff metioned that I might have to diode isolate the ignition coming back to the alarm. If so what diode and what direction would the band have to face towards the alarm or away back to the factory wire? I've never had this problem with installing an alarm, until now. Especially with the ignition. Please help as I am in this major "brian fart" stage.

Thanks



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 06, 2002 at 2:00 PM

Hello,

Just got some 1n4001 diodes. Wondering if that's what I need for the ignition? What direction?

thanks!



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 07, 2002 at 10:56 PM

HEY EVERYBODY,

CHECKED EVERY CONNECTION, STUCK WITH THE ALARM TRIGGERING ON AFTER CAR IS STARTED MANUALLY. WHICH WAY IS THE DIODE TO BE FACED ON THE YELLOW IGNITION WIRE TO THE ALARM? IS THE 1N4001 DIODE OK?

THANKS



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 08, 2002 at 12:34 AM

Sorry, Sound Pressure.... got busy with other things. The diode should be facing the ignition column so that you don't get any voltage feedback from this wire. Your alarm will not go into valet mode because it is sensing voltage on this wire which means that it thinks that the key is tunred to the ON position when infact it is not. Try this and post your results, the other thing is that you may have a faulty relay in the brain that is sticking open and connecting the 12 volts to the ignition wire.



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 08, 2002 at 3:18 PM

Thankyou Jeff.

No problem, kinda knew you would be busy. Appreciate the info. I will try it and post the results. Thankyou again!



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 08, 2002 at 4:24 PM

HEY JEFF,

DID THAT, STILL NO LUCK. IT IS STILL ARMING WHEN THE DOOR IS CLOSED AND THE IGNITION TURNED ON. DO YOU THINK IT MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE DOOR TRIGGER? I HAVE 6 AMP DIODES ISOLATING THE TWO DOOR WIRES, ONE FOR THE DRIVER DOOR, AND THE OTHER COVERING ALL OTHER DOORS. MAYBE USING THE OTHER DIODES 1N4001 FOR THE DOOR TRIGGERS MAYBE OR NO? NOW I PUT A BRAND NEW VIPER 55OESP AND IT IS WORKING FINE EXCEPT FOR THE VALET SWITCH WHICH IS DOING THE SAME(NO FUNCTION) AS THE FIRST ALARM (55OESP) IS DOING. WHICH WILL NOT LET ME GET INTO THE PROGRAMMING MODE.I SWITCHED OUT THE RELAYS STILL HAVING THE PROBLEM.posted_image  PLEASE ADVISE.

THANKS



-------------
Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: SOUND PRESSURE
Date Posted: May 10, 2002 at 5:32 AM

HEY GUYS,

I WOKE UP AT 5A.M. THIS MORNING TO TRY TO FIGURE OUT THE VIPER 550ESP. AFTER 2 HOURS CHECKING AND RECHECKING MY CONNECTIONS, AND CHECKING THE ALARM INTO ANOTHER CAR OF MINE WITH THE SAME ALARM, IT CHECKIED OUT THAT THE ALARM WAS WORKING PERFECT. ALL CONNECTIONS WERE GOOD. THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH IT WAS, THE ACCESSORY OF THE REMOTE START HARNESS WAS NOT CONNECTED AS I DID NOT ATTEMPT TO FINISH THE REMOTE START BECAUSE I WAS HAVING THAT RE-ARMING PROBLEM. posted_image SO NOW THE ALARM IS WORKING PERFECT. JUST THOUGHT IT WOULD RELAY THIS PROBLEM IF ANYONE ELSE WOULD RUN INTO IT. I GUESS I WAS TO WORRIED ABOUT BY-PASSING THE VATS SYSTEM, WHICH WAS A BREZZE THANKS TO YOU GUYS. I WOULD LIKE TO THANK VERY MUCH THE 12VOLT, AND LIKE TO THANK VERY MUCH JEFF FROM VELOCITYMOTORSPORT FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!posted_image

THANKYOU VERY MUCH!!!



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Sound Pressure

You know you have the right amount of pressure when your eyes start to water! Now you've got Juice!




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: May 10, 2002 at 7:39 AM

Good to hear that you figured out the problem with the arming ! It's frustrating when you try things over and over again and nothing seems to work. The best thing that I found when this happens is to take a break from the project ( if time allows ) or get a second set of eyes to see what is happening. It's amazing what you see after you come back ( usually I shake my head and think to myself what a dumbass I was for not seeing it the first time posted_image ) If you have any other problems in the future you know where to find us...



-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA





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