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2000 Malibu, Sidewinder 6500esp, DEI 555L

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=56876
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 2:25 AM


Topic: 2000 Malibu, Sidewinder 6500esp, DEI 555L

Posted By: mears
Subject: 2000 Malibu, Sidewinder 6500esp, DEI 555L
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 1:16 AM

I'm looking at the 555L manual and it says that on 2000 Malibus, the resistance wire is yellow.  However, the database for my car lists the yellow wire in the ignition switch harness as the starter wire.  Does the starter wire serve as the resistance wire or is one of the sources incorrect?



Replies:

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 9:25 AM
They are both yellow. They are different wires, one is larger gauge then the other. Use your meter to determine the difference.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: meltingplastic
Date Posted: May 23, 2005 at 6:47 PM
the passlock wires are the wires comming off the ignition cylinder(theres 3 wires comming off of it)

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10




Posted By: mears
Date Posted: May 24, 2005 at 7:34 AM
How close to the ignition switch harness do I need to get when I add the 555L into the mix?  Since none of those panels are removable, the most convenient place to get at them is behind the center console.




Posted By: meltingplastic
Date Posted: May 25, 2005 at 7:27 AM
last malibu i did u had to take out the radio to get to the ignition wires.. not sure if this starts with the 2000s but basically you need to find really thin wires.. there will be three of them.. and measure a resistance with ur ohm meter when you crank(ie cut the starter wire and crank teh car, tehre should be a resistance on the orange and black wire(dont quote me on colors its too early and icant remember off my head)) if there is a resistance those are ur wires, otherwise keep looking...

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10




Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 1:50 AM

Ok, after reading the (terrible) manual for my Sidewinder 6500esp several times and doing prep work with my car, I have came up with a list a questions that I’m hoping that some of you hear can help me answer.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

Car: 2000 Malibu – 6cyl
Alarm: 6500esp
Addons: Dei 555L + 3 pienzo sirens

1. First, where exactly is the tach wire on this car?  The wiring database here lists it as a PURPLE / white wire “at the top of motor coil”.  I poked around the engine compartment, and couldn’t find this mythical wire.  There is a harness towards the rear of the motor that contains about 14 wires, but none of them were PURPLE / white.  I did some searches here, and someone claimed the wire was white, another said that the tach wire can be found behind the radio, and another said the wire is to the right of the gas pedal.  I’m pretty confused about this now.

2. Is there going to be a problem if I install the 555L AND the alarm together before doing my first start?  I’m wondering if there might be some problems with them bumping into each other as they go through their learning routines.

3. Is there a problem with working with the battery disconnected?  My manual says not to, but there is an uncomfortable feeling with working around possibly live wires.  I’ve had my battery disconnected for days at a time before and never had problems.

4. Do I need to use the “domelight supervision output” for anything?  I can’t think of a reason, but figured I’d ask.

5. Where should the receiver be mounted?  Since I have tinted windows, I don’t want to just stick it on the back windshield in case I need to relocate (don’t want to damage the tint).  Also, I’m not sure if the tint will affect its operating range.

6. Where should the shock sensor be mounted that came with my alarm?  The handy manual that came with this alarm doesn’t mention anything on preferred mounting spots or even what is used for.

7. Is there a best place to install a hood pin (front, back, sides, etc)?

8. It doesn’t appear that any of the wires on the brain are dedicated to monitoring the hood pin (except for a wire that disables remote start).  Would it work if I used:
”Harness 1, wire 6: Blue (-) multiplex input, zone 4” to monitor the hood pin?  It looks like if you use a “dual stage sensor” one of them uses this wire, but I don’t think I’m using one..

9. For the “neutral safety switch input” for my remote start harness, the vehicle database here lists it as a yellow wire near the fuse panel (it says electrical center).  I get really nervous around yellow wires for obvious reasons and was hoping that maybe someone could confirm this wire.  It is a pretty thin wire and is along the top of the fuse box.

Again, thanks for the help, and if I come up with new questions, I’ll be sure to add them to this post.





Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 11:59 AM
10. For the second ignition wire input for my remote start relay, should I use:
Ignition 2: Dark Green (PCM and BCM) or
Ignition 3: Brown
It seems intuitive that I would use "Ignition 2", but don't know if the pulse code modulation will have adverse affects.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 12:11 PM

On the back side of the engine is the "coil pak" it has 6 wires in a black plug....use the white one!

The idea behind the hood pin is to prevent the engine from starting when its open. Yes use the blue wire you mentioned.

You need to do your install with the battery connected.....

The shock sensor needs to be secure....where ever its mounted. double back tape, or zip ties are the best ways to secure it.

Put the "brain" wherever you have room to. Just up and out of the way, neatly!



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Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 12:14 PM
First off, I want to praise you for a great detail post. Continue to do so because you will get better feedback from the professional installers here. You will also learn a lot more and at the same time helping others who have similar questions as yourself. If you have more questions keep the questions to this one post It make it a lot less confusing for everyone who answers your questions.


Car: 2000 Malibu – 6cyl
Alarm: 6500esp
Addons: Dei 555L + 3 pienzo sirens

“1. First, where exactly is the tach wire on this car? The wiring database here lists it as a PURPLE / white wire “at the top of motor coil”. I poked around the engine compartment, and couldn’t find this mythical wire. There is a harness towards the rear of the motor that contains about 14 wires, but none of them were PURPLE / white. I did some searches here, and someone claimed the wire was white, another said that the tach wire can be found behind the radio, and another said the wire is to the right of the gas pedal. I’m pretty confused about this now.”


It's there! Set your digital mulitimeter to AC current. The reading will fluctuate will the revving of the engine once you press on the gas pedal.

CHEVROLET, MALIBU, 2000, Tachometer
On the 4 cylinder the tach wire is white at the ignition coil. For the 6 cylinder use PURPLE / white at the coil pack located on the top rear of the motor.

On the 4 cylinder the tach wire is white at the ignition coil. For the 6 cylinder use PURPLE / white at the coil pack located on the top rear of the motor.



“2. Is there going to be a problem if I install the 555L AND the alarm together before doing my first start? I’m wondering if there might be some problems with them bumping into each other as they go through their learning routines.”



You should have any problem with them if you tied them up securely.



“3. Is there a problem with working with the battery disconnected? My manual says not to, but there is an uncomfortable feeling with working around possibly live wires. I’ve had my battery disconnected for days at a time before and never had problems.”




Yes, how are you going to test what wire is what if you disconnect the battery?   If you are 100% sure that you know all the wire and what they do I don’t see why you can not disconnect the battery to do your install.




“4. Do I need to use the “domelight supervision output” for anything? I can’t think of a reason, but figured I’d ask.”


NO




“5. Where should the receiver be mounted? Since I have tinted windows, I don’t want to just stick it on the back windshield in case I need to relocate (don’t want to damage the tint). Also, I’m not sure if the tint will affect its operating range.”





Driver side top corner below the tint is ideal. Or follow the instruction that is provided by your alarm unit.



“6. Where should the shock sensor be mounted that came with my alarm? The handy manual that came with this alarm doesn’t mention anything on preferred mounting spots or even what is used for.”


Large harness, but I personally like a flat solid surface.

A discussion on the this topic I thought it might interest you.




“7. Is there a best place to install a hood pin (front, back, sides, etc)?”



Take your time and find a good spot to mount the hood pin. It doesn’t matter where as long as when the hood is close the hood pin doesn’t produce a ground.   This is where 95% of the false alarm occurs. A faulty hood pin, so do a good job here.




“8. It doesn’t appear that any of the wires on the brain are dedicated to monitoring the hood pin (except for a wire that disables remote start). Would it work if I used:
”Harness 1, wire 6: Blue (-) multiplex input, zone 4” to monitor the hood pin? It looks like if you use a “dual stage sensor” one of them uses this wire, but I don’t think I’m using one.”




I have not read your alarm manual, but most alarm/starter unit the hood pin serves both functions.



“9. For the “neutral safety switch input” for my remote start harness, the vehicle database here lists it as a yellow wire near the fuse panel (it says electrical center). I get really nervous around yellow wires for obvious reasons and was hoping that maybe someone could confirm this wire. It is a pretty thin wire and is along the top of the fuse box.”





Not require. Someone correct me if I am.


“Again, thanks for the help, and if I come up with new questions, I’ll be sure to add them to this post.”



Have fun!


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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: hawn13
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 12:22 PM

i agree with everything Kartune said also it will be easier if you take the radio out and you can get to all your ign harness connections behind there its a little cramped but it is alot easier then taking the whole car apart. also you can put your relays and brain up behind the glove box on the passenger side and run all the wires in the way back behind the radio.





Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 1:48 PM

Wow, thanks for all the quick responses.

thepencil, I thought the neutral safety wire was required so that the remote start won't start the car if it is in gear.  Otherwise,  how will it know?

Lastly, anyone have any ideas on the second ignition wire?





Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 4:19 PM
Ok, after some more digging I was able to find the PURPLE / white wire. Next to that wire was the white one that I believe KarTuneMan was referring to. I probed both of them and this is what I found:

PURPLE / white: idled at about 2.2VAC. When the engine was reved, it DECREASED in voltage.

white: idled at around 2VAC. When the engine was reved, it INCREASED in voltage.

So now, I'm wondering which to use. Does the wiring database need to be updated?




Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 6:49 PM
11. Ok, I read through the shock sensor mounting link thepencil provided and decided to mount directly to the frame. I found a good spot for it, but my sensor doesn't have screw holes and I am unable to use twist ties in this location. I was thinking of using 3M mounting adhesive, but since those are pads, I wasn't sure if they would absorb too much vibration. The other alternative I was thinking would be carpet tape, but I don't know if that will have the longevity of the mounting adhesive.

Sorry to keep adding posts to this topic, but I can't find a way to edit messages after they have been posted.




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 02, 2005 at 11:33 PM
"thepencil, I thought the neutral safety wire was required so that the remote start won't start the car if it is in gear. Otherwise, how will it know?

Lastly, anyone have any ideas on the second ignition wire?"



You won't need it for your car.


How to test your wire 101.

IGNITION
This wire will test with the key switch in the run AND start position, but never in the accessory position.

SECOND IGNITION
Second ignition will test one of two ways. It will test with the key switch in run position only, or will test just like main ignition. Like main ignition, it will never show power in the accessory position. If the second ignition shows power only in the run position then the accessory output of a remote start device may be used to power the wire.

STARTER
Changes state only when the key switch is held in the start position. Interrupting this wire will keep the starter from engaging. Triggering the wire will spin the starter motor.


ACCESSORY
This wire will test with the key switch in the accessory and run position, but never in the start position. Some cars do not have an accessory wire.

SECOND ACCESSORY
Test in the same fashion as the main accessory wire.    


"white: idled at around 2VAC. When the engine was reved, it INCREASED in voltage."

This will be the correct tach wire.


"So now, I'm wondering which to use. Does the wiring database need to be updated?"


Which is why you need to test the wires first rather than just relying on the information given to you. Not all the car are manufacture in the same plant and same country. This is why you may find a bit of discrepancy in the wiring.


"11. Ok, I read through the shock sensor mounting link thepencil provided and decided to mount directly to the frame. I found a good spot for it, but my sensor doesn't have screw holes and I am unable to use twist ties in this location. I was thinking of using 3M mounting adhesive, but since those are pads, I wasn't sure if they would absorb too much vibration. The other alternative I was thinking would be carpet tape, but I don't know if that will have the longevity of the mounting adhesive."


You are the installer now so you have to think about it. Get it working for the time being or install it better when it comes off the second around. You don't get a second chance to make the first impression on a paying customer. Zip tied, that wasn't a bad idea you know. At least it won't come off after two weeks when the adhesive start to go.   













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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 03, 2005 at 3:52 PM

...Anyways, soldered a wire to the ORANGE / black wire that connects to my trunk light that is listed as the (-) trunk pin for my car.  When the trunk is open, it reports 12VDC as I would expect.  However, when the trunk is closed, my dmm picks up about .1VDC.  This is not an error with the dmm, because when I remove one of the leads, it drops down to about .001VDC.  Any ideas on why I am still seeing a ground on this wire?  Is it going to be strong enough to trip my alarm or should I not worry about it?





Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 03, 2005 at 4:41 PM
Ok, the plot thickens.  I went out and used the +12v at the trunk light and used the trunk pin wire I ran as my ground.  When I opened the trunk my dmm showed +12v as expected.  When I closed my trunk, it showed 0v as expected.  So I tested a couple other +12v sources using the trunk pin wire I ran and each source showed a little about .1v when I closed the trunk and 12v when it was open.   So it looks like I am going to see a slight ground on that wire whenever I'm using a +12v source other than what is fed into the bulb.  What should I do?




Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 03, 2005 at 4:54 PM

Well, let me add a couple of proposed solutions and see what you guys think:

1.  What if instead of running a wire spliced into the (-) wire of that bulb, I use the (-) and (+) wires of the bulb to drive a relay which will pass a ground that I provide from the chasis.

2.  I add a resistor to the wire I spliced off of the (-) bulb wire. 

 

The universal problem with each of these solutions is that it is going to require me to get extra parts and with 2, I have no idea what ohm resistor I would need.  Maybe I am blowing this out of proportion and the slight ground isn't going to be a problem.





Posted By: mears
Date Posted: June 05, 2005 at 12:28 PM
Another voltage sensitivity issue. Both of the door triggers show a slight ground the doors are closed (around .7VDC) and go to the full 12VDC when they are open. Is the .7VDC going to be enough to trip the alarm?





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