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2003 dodge ram 2500 alarm/remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=57640
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 11:13 AM


Topic: 2003 dodge ram 2500 alarm/remote start

Posted By: tanker300
Subject: 2003 dodge ram 2500 alarm/remote start
Date Posted: June 11, 2005 at 5:25 PM

Hi,

I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 and I am installing the 5100rs from Scytek. I can get my lock to work and door triggers no problem, I can not get the unlock to work. Do I need 2 relays for unlock. I really do not understand double pulse. Can this be explained to me. How do I get the nlock to unlock on transmitter.




Replies:

Posted By: chungo
Date Posted: June 11, 2005 at 6:13 PM
DODGE, RAM PICKUP, 2003, Power Lock
Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 11, 2005 at 9:01 PM

I got that part no problem I have split my power door wire with 820 neg and 330 on unlock and I tested each wire by grounding relay and I would touch the wire on relay one by one to get the lock to work and unlock to work.

Now this is where I am overthinking, how do I configure both wires on each relay to work.





Posted By: Scuba_04
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 1:10 AM
I agree with (chungo).

-------------
Steve
Music Mart
Installer




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 1:32 AM
can I use a single pulse? Or should it be double




Posted By: Scuba_04
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 11:04 AM
Single

-------------
Steve
Music Mart
Installer




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 11:09 AM

Does the truck have factery "door" security....if so, double pulse. The first pulse disarms your factory security... the second unlocks the doors, if no factory security, single pulse is all thats needed. Use 2 relays, one for lock, and one for unlock. You can put the resistor in line off of pin 30, or 87....matters NOT.



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Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 1:16 PM

Thank you KarTuneMan,

I wired up the lock on one relay not a problem, it is my unlock I am having trouble with wire hook up, ca you show me a pic, it would help me. This truck does not have a factory alarm, for door locks.





Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 2:22 PM
First, IT IS A SINGLE PULSE QUIT WITH THE DOUBLE PULSE CRAP. Second YOU NEED 2 RELAYS. Third wire them exactly like this, 85 -lock/unlock from alarm, 86 Constant 12V, 30 ground, 87 -output to car. Then put the appropriate resistors on the relay on the output to car.

posted_image

I have literally done a 1000 of these and never once have I had to use a double pulse for unlock.



-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 3:07 PM

Thanks auex,

I have always learned from pictures, that is just me.

I am not a security expert like you and I know it probable drives you nuts to repeat diagrams over and over but really, you have helped me a great deal and if you need advice on anything to do with reeftanks let me know, I am a long time reef forum expert and I will donate to this forum





Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 7:04 PM
Cool, hope it works for ya.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 9:39 PM

so auex....you,ve done a thousand of these without factory security?


DODGE, RAM PICKUP, 2003, Factory Alarm Arm

This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 2K ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 480 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
close



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Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 12, 2005 at 10:20 PM

I have a couple of questions about remote starting.

1) I have on order for my truck the 555c by pass module coming on monday and will I need any relays for this application and how should I connect correctly

2) As far as programming that I have read here in this forum, what is the correct way to do this.





Posted By: dare_ds69
Date Posted: June 13, 2005 at 6:09 AM
no you don't have to use relays just read the instructions carefull and you will find out the wires that you nnedposted_image

-------------
how own your mind, control your life.
MECP certified. always use a DMM




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 13, 2005 at 1:41 PM
Yeah, I have. I use a different alarm on the trucks with factory keyless remotes. Also while that may work, it is still the factory disarm wire. There is no need to double pulse the WHITE/ green lock wire.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 13, 2005 at 4:42 PM
Another thing is my 2003 ram 2500 truck does not have a chip on the key and had no factory alarm, until the 8000rs that was just installed. What does this have to do with the little chip on the 555c. Or in my case nothing, is it just a bypass module.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 13, 2005 at 11:32 PM

I need some help please.

I have looked all over this forum and I can not find my starter wire for remote starting

Where the heck is it or how do I wire to it.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Cummings.





Posted By: hawn13
Date Posted: June 13, 2005 at 11:40 PM
Velocity Motors
Moderator
posted_image

Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Canada
Posts: 8,366
Posted: September 26, 2002 at 1:02 AM - IP Logged  

|              12V|pnk/blk & RED / wht   |+  |ignition harness            |
|          STARTER|yellow              |+  |ignition harness            |
|         IGNITION|blue     (16 awg)   |+  |ignition harness            |
|  SECOND IGNITION|red or RED / wht      |+  |ignition harness            |
|        ACCESSORY|green & orange      |+  |ignition harness            |
| SECOND ACCESSORY|blue & blk/wht *7   |+  |ignition harness            |
|       POWER LOCK|WHITE/ green *1      |-  |driver kick panel           |
|     POWER UNLOCK|same wire           |   |                            |
|       LOCK MOTOR|tan/pnk or tan/blk  |   |driver kick panel           |
|     UNLOCK MOTOR|blue                |   |driver kick panel           |
|    DISARM DEFEAT|tan/white           |   |passenger kick panel        |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|BLACK / YELLOW        |   |relay under hood at pwr ctr |
| PARKING LIGHTS -|purple / YELLOW *2    |   |headlight switch            |
|       HEADLIGHTS|purple / YELLOW *2    |-  |headlight switch            |
|     DOOR TRIGGER|*3                  |-  |*3                          |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger    |   |                            |
|  FCTRY ALARM ARM|lt GREEN/ orange *4  |-  |driver kick panel           |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire           |   |                            |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK|same wire           |   |                            |
|       TACHOMETER|NOT GREEN/ orange    |   |ign coil, coil pac, injector|
|      SPEED SENSE|WHITE/ orange        |   |conn. 2, pin 27 @ PCM *5    |
|       BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan           |+  |brake pedal switch          |
|     HORN TRIGGER|BLACK/ red           |-  |steering column             |
|           WIPERS|brn/wht(L),rd/yel(H)|+  |wiper motor                 |
|  LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt blue - white     |A  |driver window switch        |
|  RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - pur/wht   |A  |driver kick panel           |
|  LR WINDOW UP/DN|RED / blk - blu/wht   |A  |driver kick panel           |
|  RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/wht - gry/blk   |A  |driver kick panel           |
|        RADIO 12V|pink                |+  |radio                       |
|     RADIO GROUND|BLACK/ green         |-  |radio                       |
|     RADIO SWITCH|BROWN / red           |+  |radio                       |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE|ORANGE / blue (dimmer)|+  |radio                       |
|       LF SPEAKER|lt grn/rd-lt grn/grn|   |radio or amplifier *6       |
|       RF SPEAKER|lt blu/pu-lt blu/blk|   |radio or amplifier *6       |
|       LR SPEAKER|wht/red - wht/blk   |   |radio or amplifier *6       |
|       RR SPEAKER|tan/pur - tan/blk   |   |radio or amplifier *6       |

Notes:
NOTE: For the 2002 Ram 2500/3500, refer to the 2001 techsoft sheet.    NOTE:  Chrysler vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting. Use DEI part number 555C or 555U.  *1 Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.  *2 Parking lights require a negative trigger thru a 330 or 1.4K ohm resistor. Headlights require a negative trigger thru a 1.8K ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch.  *3 The LF door trigger is tan, and the LR door is tan/orange. These wires are in the driver kick panel. The RF door trigger is tan/red, and the RR door is tan / YELLOW. These wires are in the passenger kick panel. Use all wires and diode isolate each. See directfax document #1076 for wiring information.  *4 This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 2K ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 480 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays.  *5 The PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is on the passenger side firewall.  *6 The amplifier is located behind the glove box.  *7 These wires may not be necessary for remote start





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 13, 2005 at 11:51 PM
Thanks, so I will hook up my alarm remote starter + to the yellow to get the starter to crank?




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 12:38 AM

So how exactly is this guy gonna get in his truck with the unit he has....if he does NOT double pulse the wire???

I am VERY curious. Do you know something that DEI, astroflex, or any other tech support doesn't



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Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 2:00 AM
Is the tach wire on a 2003 dodge ram 2500 cummings 4x4 GREEN/ orange or gray/black, for my remote start




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 2:21 AM

  TACHOMETER|NOT GREEN/ orange&! nbsp;   |   |ign coil, coil pac, injector|
Does this mean not to use or what does NOT mean

Thank you





Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 7:10 AM

tanker300 wrote:

Thanks, so I will hook up my alarm remote starter + to the yellow to get the starter to crank?

I see so many posts with ppl doing first time alarms/RS and I hope you are all testing the wires with a DMM or something to make sure you have the correct wires.  Please don't just take the tech sheet as gospel and tap those wires.  Make sure you have the correct wire by testing it properly.

We had a customer who was a mechanic by an alarm from us and wanted to install it himself.  We gave him a tech sheet.  He installed the alarm without testing wires.  I can't remember the car, but he had a + and - park light.  Directechs had the park light polarity incorrect on the tech sheet.   He came back cause he tapped the - park light and sent 12 volts through it.  The park light wire fried all the way to the fuse block becuase he was dangerous enough to pop the 10A fuse a couple times, so he put a 30A fuse in to keep it from popping. 





Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 7:15 AM
It should be the non common wire at the injectors.  Is GR/OR the common wire at the injectors?




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 8:04 AM
Save the guess work. Test the wire with your Digital Multimeter set on the AC setting. The reading will be between 1-8V and move up when you step on the gas pedal.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 9:43 AM

I know what you professionals are saying. I always take my cars in to a shop for anything, I have 2001 durango (wifes) and my 03 ram. I have had 2 high end stereo systems installed (custom) and even my first alarm system. But my installer and all of them are very busy this time of year so I really wanted to give it a try and this is why I am here.

Believe me, I would not recommend anyone to install an alarm themselves. I do not care how smart you think you are, professionals do it daily and have a comfort zone and can do it faster and cleaner than someone doing it at home, anyday. With that said I really took my time on this self install ( 3 days). I have tested and double tested each and every wire before connection. I have done this step by step with the help of this forum, and ONLY from this forum. I will make a donation too.

Will I do it again, Hell no. I like to fiddle fart with my rides but installs,no way.

Now one last question and I am done, I just need this help. Tach wire on 2003 Ram cummings 4x4.Which one is it. Thanks





Posted By: EL_NOVATO
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 9:52 AM

What exactly happens if you only single pulse?  Does it not unlock at all or does it just unlock one door?  On my 1999 Maxima, one turn of the key in the door unlocks only that door, 2 turns unlocks all of the doors.  If I don't set it up with double pulse, will I have to hit the unlock button twice on the transmitter to unlock all doors?  Once to unlock only one?   Thanks!

e.n. :)





Posted By: JiggaFan
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 9:52 AM
THe tach wire is the uncommon wire at the injector




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 10:02 AM
KarTuneMan wrote:

DODGE, RAM PICKUP, 2003, Factory Alarm Arm
This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 2K ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 480 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays.
Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.


Alright, here you listed the factory disarm wire. This can control the locks BUT there is an actual single wire coming off of the lock switch.

DODGE, RAM PICKUP, 2003, Power Lock
Power Lock WHITE/ green   -   driver kick panel    
Power Unlock same wire as power lock       

Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 12:47 PM
O.K found the right wire by injector and used a a/c tester and it did go up a little when you hit the throttle. I tapped into the yellow wire in the ignition harness for remote start. Now I get nothing. I do not have factory alarm or door locks, or chip in key do I still need bypass module, it should at least crank right?




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 2:11 PM
It should at least crank. If not you gonna have go back to the drawing board. Check all your wiring again. Ignition one and two make sure they are not reverse. Starter wire, make sure you got the correct starter wire. Hood pin, make sure it is not gounded. Are you getting any parking light flashes at all to give you some reasurring hope that the unit is functioning?

Do you have a grey key or black key? The grey key is the Sentra Key which will require a bypass module.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 2:15 PM
So you have to hook up 2 ignition wires?




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 2:27 PM
The wiring diagarm indicated that there were two. Did you test to see if there was another one? Often the case they are connected in reverse.



Second ignition will test one of two ways. It will test with the key switch in run position only, or will test just like main ignition. Like main ignition, it will never show power in the accessory position. If the second ignition shows power only in the run position then the accessory output of a remote start device may be used to power the wire.   



-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: switch_hitter
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 8:58 PM
dude you dont need that module unless you have a grey key with the chip in it.

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2 Memphis HPO 12s
1 Memphis 1000D
2 Memphis 8s
1 Memphis MC200
4 Memphis 3way 6 1/2s
1 Memphis MC3004
4 Memphis Tweeters
1 Memphis 3-way electronic crossover
2 Memphis 5 1/4
2 Memphis 4s




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 14, 2005 at 9:12 PM

That is what I thought, Thanks.

I am still having a tach wire issue. I can get my truck to remote start but I need the tach wire so it knows it is running.

I tried the GREEN/ orange nothing. Can anyone help me on this, which one is it on a 2003 ram cummings





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 12:36 AM

I need the pdf or diagram or color of an A/C-Heater wire for a remote starter on a 2003 Dodge Ram Cummings 4x4.

Thank You





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 1:34 AM
Problem resoved, Thank you




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 8:31 AM
You will need to look into powering up the ACCESSORY WIRE for the AC to come on.

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - DODGE / RAM PICKUP / 2003 / Remote Start

12volts pnk/blk & RED / wht   +   ignition harness
Starter yellow   +   ignition harness
Second Starter N/A       
Ignition blue (16 awg)   +   ignition harness
Second Ignition red or RED / wht   +   ignition harness
Third Ignition N/A       
Accessory green & orange   +   ignition harness
Second Accessory blue & blk/wht   +   ignition harness
Notes: These wires may not be necessary for remote start.
Keysense lt. blue   -   ignition harness
Power Lock WHITE/ green   -   driver kick panel
Notes: Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock requires a negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Power Unlock same wire as power lock       
Lock Motor tan/pnk or tan/blk      driver kick panel
Unlock Motor blue      driver kick panel
Parking Lights+ BLACK / YELLOW   +   relay under hood at pwr ctr
Parking Lights- purple / YELLOW   -   headlight switch
Notes: Parking lights require a negative trigger thru a 330 or 1.4K ohm resistor. There is a rest resistance on the wire, so MUST use a relay to isolate away from the switch.
Hazards          
Turn Signal(L)          
Turn Signal(R)          
Reverse Light PURPLE / black   +   automatic day/night mirror
Door Trigger see notes   -   see notes
Notes: The LF door trigger is tan, and the LR door is tan/orange or PURPLE / orange. These wires are in the driver kick panel. The RF door trigger is tan/red, and the RR door is tan / YELLOW. These wires are in the passenger kick panel. Use all wires and diode isolate each. See DirectFax document 1076 for wiring information.
Dome Supervision brown   -   driver A pillar or cluster
Trunk/Hatch Pin N/A       
Hood Pin          
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A       
Power Sliding Door N/A       
Factory Alarm Arm lt. GREEN/ orange   -   driver kick panel
Notes: This will also do door locks. Arm/lock is negative trigger thru a 2K ohm resistor. Disarm/unlock is negative trigger thru a 480 ohm resistor. Single pulse will do disarm without unlocking the doors. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays.

Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules.
Factory Alarm Disarm same wire as alarm arm       
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm       
Tachometer NOT GREEN/ orange   ac   ign coi, coil pack, or injector
Notes: Diesel tach wire use gray/black in the black plug at the PCM.
Wait to start see DirectFax document 1091       
Brake Wire WHITE/ tan   +   brake pedal switch
Parking Brake WHITE/ lt. green   -   parking brake switch
Horn Trigger BLACK/ red   -   steering column
Memory Seat 1          
Memory Seat 2          
Memory Seat 3          
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
Sentry Key
Part #: 555CW
Alternate Part1 #: 556UW
Alternate Part2 #: 555U
Notes: Only vehicles with gray keys have the immobilizer.
Interface Module: Category:
Door Lock Interface Required:
Yes Type:
Data Bus
Part #: 457CW
Alternate Part1 #: 456LW
Notes:

      
This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter.
Directed electronics, Inc. assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.





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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 9:03 AM
And if you have factory security (door protection) you need to use the arm/lock, disarm/unlock wire Lt. grn/orange, NOT the WHITE/ green. This lt. rgreen and orange requires a double pulse....thats that!

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Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 15, 2005 at 8:16 PM

I have everything up and running on my car security system and remote start.

2003 Dodge Ram 2500

I have 2 wire left , 1 of which I need for my A/C to operate during remote start up, and it goes like this as instructions states:

Brown Wire: Second ignition Output(+) The brown wire provides +12 volts for a second ignition wire. This  wire may instead be programmed for use as a second accessory  or second starter wire.

Orange Wire: Accessory Output(+)  Connect to accessory wire coming from the ignition switch that supplies power to A/C-Heater.

Now I have tested the orange wire in remote star and no power comes out, Does this mean I need a relay to supply the 12 volts or does the brown wire play a role in powering up the orange or how do I get my A/C to run during remote start up.





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 1:07 AM
I know there is someone that knows the answer. I am sure a relay is involved to power up my A/C on the steering colum but I do not no which one, I really do not want to keep screwing with it and blow my air bag or something guys, please healp.




Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 6:36 AM
tanker300 wrote:

I have 2 wire left , 1 of which I need for my A/C to operate during remote start up, and it goes like this as instructions states: Brown Wire: Second ignition Output(+) The brown wire provides +12 volts for a second ignition wire. This  wire may instead be programmed for use as a second accessory  or second starter wire.



You should not have this wire left over. You are supposed to have hooked this wire to the second ignition wire. Failure to hook this wire up could damage your transmission.

Second Ignition: red or RED / wht (+) ignition harness

tanker300 wrote:

Orange Wire: Accessory Output(+)  Connect to accessory wire coming from the ignition switch that supplies power to A/C-Heater.



Accessory: green & orange (+) ignition harness

tanker300 wrote:

Now I have tested the orange wire in remote star and no power comes out, Does this mean I need a relay to supply the 12 volts or does the brown wire play a role in powering up the orange or how do I get my A/C to run during remote start up.



This should be supplying +12volts while remote started. If not then you have a problem with your unit. You will not need a relay for this connection.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 10:39 AM
Thank you  iskidoo




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 10:57 AM
tanker300 wrote:

I know there is someone that knows the answer. I am sure a relay is involved to power up my A/C on the steering colum but I do not no which one, I really do not want to keep screwing with it and blow my air bag or something guys, please healp.



Where you able to locate the Accessory wire? There might be Two Accessory wire. Accessory 1 and Accessory 2. You will only need to hook up the Orange wire from the remote starter unit to the Accessory 1 wire of your vehicle. You do not need a relay. You will not blow up any airbag if you are not poking at wire that has a yellow loom around it. Yellow loom around the wires are most likely the air bag wires.


Your Brown wire on the remote starter unit is set to default for Second Ignition. You can connect the Brown wire to the Second Ignition wire of your vehicle. You won't need 2nd Ignition if you live in region where the climate never hit's 0 degrees. Otherwise you may use this wire as a Second Accessory wire. If you are using the Brown wire for 2nd Accessory you will need to program it for 2nd Accessory. The instruction for setting it is located on page 23 of your installation manual . It will not effect the remote start. So try powering up the 2nd Accessory. It might be what is require for turning on your AC. I live in Canada, I am only concern with powering up the heater so I really don't pay much attention to what wire is require to turn the AC on so I cannot tell you off hand. Anyways, the basic is there. So it just a matter of trial. Post your result when you are done.


As for damaging the transmission for not connecting the 2nd ignition wire. That applies to GM vehicle.

   

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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 11:47 AM
I have looked up and down ignition harness. No ORANGE / green wire to be found




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 12:33 PM
Which is why you have to test every wire at the ignitions harness!

The wiring diagram are only correct when a professional installer reads it and not meant for DIY and weekend installer using it.


TEST ALL YOUR WIRE AGAIN AT THE IGNITION HARNESS. It will behave like the note listed below. Just pretend that the wires are absent off all color. Hopefully that will help you find the correct wire.


ACCESSORY
This wire will test with the key switch in the accessory and run position, but never in the start position.

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 1:23 PM

No more do it myself after this, my normal installer who does our cars and security has been pretty busy this time of year and I just thought well it can't be that tough. I always recommend professionals and I really do thank you guys for helping me. Now I did acually hook the acc(+) wire to the main ignition harness one by one and the only thing I got was the defrost on the 1 of 3 BIG wires (green) the other BIG wires are blue and pink/blk.

There are some smaller wires on another loom but I figured it is the air bag or ?. But I would think if you use one of the wires the whole Acc/Heat ect should work. Not just the defrost





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 4:31 PM
I hooked to my big green blower motor wire in the ignition harness with the orange (+)just for blower motor to kick on, now I have that brown wire. I have a separete a/c button you push when you want a/c. It does not work when in remote start, do I get this wire and aplly my (+) brown to it?




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 10:23 PM
Problem resoved, Thank you found a/c wire.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 16, 2005 at 10:28 PM

Now with remote start in action with no ill effects my last and final task is the engine kill relay.

How do you wire the relay without popping a fuse.nI know how to wire up rely w/diode but where do I place the 2 starter wires on ignition switch wire. Do I go above the remote start wire or both below. If the alarm is set and you remote start how would it work





Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: June 18, 2005 at 4:28 PM
tanker300 wrote:

Do I go above the remote start wire or both below. If the alarm is set and you remote start how would it work?

Connect the remote start STARTER output wire to the starter motor side of the cut wire or pin 30.

posted_image




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 18, 2005 at 7:36 PM

I am wondering what the heck is going on. I drive a little ways and you can hear the door locks trying to lock. It happend when I am coming off a red light or stop sign and as soon as I give it gas you can hear the locks. How can you make this not happen. It seems like it is picking up voltage and when it hits a certain speed they try to lock





Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: June 18, 2005 at 8:02 PM
a lot of newer cars do this, what you are hearing is probly the relays. how to get around it i dont know.




Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 18, 2005 at 8:30 PM
No, the relays are down under dash, the locks just lock, I unlock them to see and they will lock.




Posted By: infoaudio01
Date Posted: June 18, 2005 at 10:21 PM

Check your ignition wire.  If an ignition wire is improperly connected, then your alarm would disconnect/reconnect with voltage which in turn can cause your locks to lock and unlock.  Also if the polarity on your lock wires are negative switching then they may be pinched or grounding out.





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 19, 2005 at 1:36 AM

 I checked connections, and they are tight. It has something to do with voltage I am thinking this because when you hit throttle from a dead stop you can hear the locks





Posted By: tanker300
Date Posted: June 22, 2005 at 12:04 AM
I come up to a light and stop, then I hit the gas and you can hear the locks lock. They are already locked but they just make the lock sound like it is locking again.




Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: June 22, 2005 at 12:12 PM
this has nothing to do with your connections, ALL jeeps, dodge, etc do this. soem cars you can trun them off, if you have the display to do so. but i do here the clicking also on all the cars. i work at stuart jeep, VW , and mitibishi.
When i go back i found out what it is, that is if i rememebr to ask. but since it happens on all the cars, it wotn harm your car.




Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: June 22, 2005 at 6:15 PM
Sooo, you actually got a tach signal at an injector on a Dodge Cummins Diesel???? Cool. Impossible, but cool nonetheless. The unit injectors are under the valve cover, with not a lot of usable wiring available to tap into.

Tach is on the PCM over on the passenger's side of the firewall. You can also get it at the harness that comes along the top of the firewall. If you have the PCM there on the passenger's side of the firewall. It will be BLACK/ grey. If you are highly unlucky to have the newer "quiet" Cummins under the hood, tach sucks to get at. There is a PCM bolted to the side of the motor, just above the oilpan. Tach is on the middle plug, blue/grey, pin 56 or so. Cam position sensor. Rumor has it, it is also available somewhere on the top of the motor, but I haven't ever been able to find the sensor.

If it's a gasser, then yes, you can snag an injector or coilpack, but I'm pretty sure you mentioned that it's a diesel.

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......





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