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Code Alarm CA-425 transponder programming

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=58231
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 7:18 AM


Topic: Code Alarm CA-425 transponder programming

Posted By: CRxen
Subject: Code Alarm CA-425 transponder programming
Date Posted: June 22, 2005 at 10:13 PM

I installed a CA-425 system into a '90 Honda Civic and was wondering how one would begin the transponder programming so that the alarm accepts the transponder's signal (like for disarm/arm, etc.)  When I put the the main power fuse (12 volt BATT) the alarm begins to sound off and i can hear relays inside the control module clicking.  After 5 mins. or so it stops and arms itself.  I tried following instructions for programming after that point but nothing happens.  I tried while the alarm was going off and nothing.  Am i missing something??  I have the dome light input, door trigger input, siren (but not the car horn), antenna, valet switch/LED, and power/ground hooked up.  There is more that the car itself doesn't really need (or doesn't have like Pwindows or Pdoorlocks) and the remote start harness isn't plugged in.  Any info or experiences greatly appreciated!




Replies:

Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: June 22, 2005 at 11:42 PM

finish hooking it up before trying to test it.  If you test all the wires before hand, then it should work fine when finished. 

I am not familiar with that unit, but many alarms/RS draw there main power from the RS 12V wire.





Posted By: hagmanti
Date Posted: June 25, 2005 at 9:35 PM
Hook up all the wires (including ground, ignition, and door pin).

Turn on the ignition.

Put the fuses in.

Turn the ignition off.

Close all the doors, then open one (or more).

Turn on the ignition. Press and hold the valet button. After 5-10 seconds, the LED should light solid. Continue holding the button. You will hear 3 chirps. Now press the lock button on whatever remotes you want to control the brain.

That last step needs to be completed relatively quickly (no more than 10 seconds or so between steps).

You don't _need_ the remote start harness for this stuff.

This is all in the install manual, BTW

Me




Posted By: duckymon
Date Posted: June 26, 2005 at 11:54 AM
those damn circuit city alarms suck........... the master module is the brain and then you decide the package you want r/s alarm 2way whatever but since the units are all universal meaning you can swap then with any other code parts the transmitters are not programed to the brain unless you do it your self!




Posted By: hagmanti
Date Posted: June 26, 2005 at 10:54 PM

Ummm... I think you have the right number of periods above-- they're just all in one place.

Circuit City doesn't sell these any more. Nor were they ever the only sellers (although I'll grant that they probably were the only big box store).

After you've spent 4 hours installing a remote start, it is fairly terrible to have to spend 30 seconds programming two remotes. I guess. So, what makes an alarm "unsucky" is whether the brains come preprogrammed to the remotes?

Just curious,

Me

P.S. I don't know why I'm defending Code Alarm-- it's just that the above post bugs me and rips on them for the wrong reason.




Posted By: Unique customs
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 12:01 AM

hello, I use to be a installer at cc and the way you have to programm the remote is by turning the key and hit the valet 1,2,3 holding on the 3rd the alarm sould beep at this time you can push any button on the remote and that it.

unique custom, brandon



-------------
Hit me!




Posted By: jpmaniac
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 12:32 AM
to program the transmitters there are 5 things that are neccessary.  1. you need to have 12 volt to the ca-425. 2. you need to have a ground to the ca-425. 3 you need to have the antenna plugged in. 4 you have to have the doorpin hooked up and 5 you have to have the ignition wire from the ca-425 hooked up.  once you have those 5 things just turn the key to the ignition. within 10 seconds press abd hold the valet.  it will sound the siren 3 chirps then press the lock button on whatever transmitters you want programmed.  If it will not go into program mode check your door pin wire first.  my suggestion is to just touch the neg door pin input (should be green wire) to a ground and try to enter programing if it works then, you know your door pin wire is bad.  also, once a ground and 12v is supplied to alarm it will go off until disarmed or you can turn the key to the ignition and press the valet button once.  Either of those two will stop the alarm.  P.S> the code alarm product is not bad.  they still make it new in 2005 it is just called somewthing else.. I.e ca-670.




Posted By: hagmanti
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 12:44 AM
Check page 8 of the installation manual for the procedure. (Or my post above, which also includes the procedure for powering the brain without setting it off...)

Unique's method does not work (I just tested it).

Me




Posted By: burns25
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 1:07 AM
Another quick thing if you ever have to do one of these again, just make sure the ignition wire is hooked up first and turn the key to on so that it's getting power. Then hook up the the 12v constant wires. The alarm won't go off if it sees ign before constant. And I also agree that saying that Code is bad because the remotes don't come programmed is not really a valid reason. All it is is an oversized Audiovox alarm anyways.




Posted By: duckymon
Date Posted: June 27, 2005 at 8:20 AM
i'll tell you what makes the CA series alarms sucky. first off from day one there has been nothign but software issues
with the systems the internal shock senors horrible they false alot. the brain has to be mounted horizontal and screwed into the car in order for the shock sensor to work properly.that normally wouldn't be a problem but if you ever saw the size of those damn things there is no way to mount them that way in most cars. i remember one customers car we had to swap out 6 brain until i got one to work right. the r/s won't work unless you have a tach signal voltage will work for 3 starts and then it fales and you have to reset the brain.

Dont mind my bitterness it just a horrific experience that we went threw at circuit city we lost dei product got this code alarm crap. after a year of poor sales they finally went back to dei alarms r/s

the only good thing i will say about code alarm is the rf programmer. its like a wireless bitwritter. that was the only good thing a can say about code and evan that aint much





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