1998 Camry parking lights

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=58584
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 11:04 PM

Topic: 1998 Camry parking lights

Posted By: us_test
Subject: 1998 Camry parking lights
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 8:43 PM

car: 1998 Camry CE.

Alarm: AsianWolf (I know... :( acted on impulse should've gotten autopage 855LCD or Audiovox 996a). 2009FM2 a k a Skytek Galaxy 5000RS2 rebranded.

Problem: cannot get parking lights to work.

Troubleshooting steps taken so far.

Tested with multimeter green+, GREEN / WHITE+, GREEN/ orange+ and I get 12V+ when i turn on the lights and nothing when they are off. Narrowed down the plug which goes to the light switch. Connected white wire (fused 10A) to the 3 different wires one at a time (unplugging the alarm from main harness while connecting the white wire to each of the 3 wires). Checked fuse on white wire and it is not blown. Armed the alarm and tested with Multimeter and got .3v (forgot to turn down the mutimeter a notch) for 1 or 2 seconds on white wire when arming and disarming. Defualt program 1 for alarm has the lights on.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance

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(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Replies:

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 8:59 PM

us_test wrote:

Checked fuse on white wire and it is not blown. Armed the alarm and tested with Multimeter and got .3v (forgot to turn down the mutimeter a notch) for 1 or 2 seconds on white wire when arming and disarming.

Set your meter correctly and remeasure. If it shows less then 12V then the output is bad. I show the parking light wire being +green in the white plug in the fusebox. Does your alarm have + or - outputs? Parking lights - is green in the column.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:01 PM

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:06 PM

thanks auex - wanted to say that I checked the internal jumper on the alarm and it is set to + (this is the default). What should I set the meter to? (it seems right to me if I'm measuring volts since it showed 12V on all the 3 green wires, right)? I guess the output is bad since it shows only .3 v right?

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:07 PM

swamprat323 - I think that is where I stand now since the alarm output is .3v

Not sure how the ouput would've gone bad (I figured the fuse would've blown first).

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:09 PM

If your meter is NOT auto ranging then set it to 20V DC. That will give you the correct range.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:14 PM

I had it on 20 DCV the whole time. I just wasn't thinking and when I saw .3v thaught that that output was really low like milivolts low so I should switch to millivolts (obviosly not the case the 10A fuse should've been a dead giveaway for me...you don't protect a milivolt circuit with a 10a fuse).

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:30 PM

you may not see 12 volts on your meter, the parkign light is a pulse not a constant. use a test light. but dont use the test on on ANYTHING in your car.

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 9:49 PM

I don't have a test light but will try to get one. Good point about the test light ..I know there is someone out there right now checking the YELLOW harness wire with a test light...ha ha.,....all I can picture is the onStar people "This is onstar we were notified that your aribag deployed, are you OK. Jimmy Bob: I'm fine but this 39.99 K-mart remote start is a pain in the but....say do you know what color is the tach sens wire lady?"

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 29, 2005 at 10:33 PM

You know I'm thinking that he way to get this working is with a relay since the ouput on the alarm is too low.

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: June 30, 2005 at 10:20 AM

Come on experts come in with some advice on this one. I've obviously ran a series of ADAVANCED diagnostics a seasoned PRO would run. I'd hate to think I'm smarter than all the people on this forum (I know that is not the case).

I'm surprise no one even mentioned to use a relay with a 12v constant (the .3v would be enough to trip the relay) on the parking lights wire on the alarm. I mean this is pretty basic in my book.

thanks.

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).

Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: July 01, 2005 at 8:41 AM

the parking light wire you are triggering in your car, controls a factory relay....plus the one in the alarm brain....do you really think you need another?

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Posted By: auex
Date Posted: July 01, 2005 at 8:48 AM

.3V is not enough to trip a relay. Output is bad.

-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

Posted By: us_test
Date Posted: July 01, 2005 at 12:33 PM

Thanks auex - exactly the answer I was looking for.

KarTuneMan - the output is not strong enough to power the lights but I was thinking it would be enough to trip a relay connected to 12V which will in turn provide 12V to the lights (auex gave me the right answer and the .3v is not enough to trip relay).

Any other workaround you can suggest? I was thinking to run a relay of the siren wire, what do you think?
Anyway Asian Wolf's warranty sucks...They'll void it if it is not installed by a shop but they cover it if a shop tech fries the brain (this is in writing it came with my alarm)....Mine was dead out of the box pretty much, I connected it to the right wires which showed 12V only when the light switch was on and 0 when off...defective POS rebranded Skytek...learned my lesson and will never in my life buy from them again.

-------------
(1) Kenwood Excelon Head Unit KDC-X589 (24 bit Burr Brown DAC, 3 X 4 volt RCA).
(1) RF Punch 250A2 - running the components.
(1) Hifonics 6.5" Atlas Components (18db crossovers).