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2001 Impala, alarm problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=59294
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 5:02 PM


Topic: 2001 Impala, alarm problem

Posted By: acorona74
Subject: 2001 Impala, alarm problem
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:22 PM

I am a consumer--know nothing about installing alarms.  Had a reputable shop install an alarm in my 2001 Chevy Impala after a break-in I experienced last year.

Their "basic" alarm at the time of installation was a Baretta M-2.  From the beginning, this alarm was very sensitive.  It didn't take long before the alarm would sound off without being provoked.  I took the car back to the shop, and they turned the sensitivity down and told me that my car battery was on its way out.  They said that if I replaced my car battery, it might solve the alarm problem.

Last week, my car battery finally went dead (6 months since I had taken my car back to the alarm shop).  I had the battery replaced, but the alarm still sounds off on its own.

I arm the alarm, and 10 minutes later it will sound off.  Then I use the remote to disarm, wait a few seconds, and use the remote to arm the alarm again.  Less than 1 minute later it will sound off again--no provocation.  This routine will continue until I finally give up and just disarm the alarm, re-lock my doors, and pray to God nobody breaks into my car because I don't want to re-arm the alarm!

Is there anything special about my 2001 Chevy Impala that could affect the way alarms are installed so that they work properly?  Or is it the alarm itself?  Or is it the brand of alarm?  Please help with any advice.  Thanks.




Replies:

Posted By: Montrealler
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 4:38 PM
DEI Wichh is the best known reference for installers state in their database the following

The drivers door trigger wire is blue. Blue/white will catch all other doors. Use both wires and diode isolate each.
The BCM is located above the brake pedal. It is a plastic box with three plugs that face the firewall.
Have to also diode isolate from the BCM to prevent false alarms. Refer to DirectFax document 1076 for wiring information.

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That is because the BCM (Body Control Module) will go into a power save mode ( shutdown ) At this time the rest reference for the door trigger will change on those wire causing the alarm to think a door have been open.


Also go back to your owner guide . Most of the alarm will have a way to tell wich zone was last triggered to turn on the alarm.


This is one of the most common mistake. But be carefull an answer on a message board is just a possible cause. Don't bug the installer right away. Do test and then bring your stories they may be helpfull. If it is Door/bcm related there will be a time constant involved after the last action performed on the car . Most of the time the delay will be 10 minutes.




Posted By: acorona74
Date Posted: July 13, 2005 at 10:41 AM

Montrealler,

Thank you for your response.  I printed it out and took it to the shop last night.  The installer guy read it, used the "DirectFax document 1076" you referenced in your response, and put the diodes on.  Now my alarm is not going off after 10 minutes on its own, and everything is working properly.  Your advice was a big help!  Thanks again.

Andrea






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