2002 honda accord ex

hey, is the untouchable something you installed with the factory alarm?

I installed an aftermarket remote starter into a '97 Civic that already had an alarm and keyless entry.  I had to install 2 extra relays that ran off the remote starter.  One relay was used to bypass the alarm's ignition wire, and the other was used to bypass the alarm's shock sensor.  When I remotely start the car, the first relay bypasses the alarm's ignition wire, so they keyless entry will still work while the car is running.  The second relay bypasses the shock sensor, so the alarm doesn't go off when the car remotely starts (shakes the car).

If this is what you're talking about, I can provide more info.  Here''s the link to the same problem that I was having, and solved with two relays (and a lot of help):

Damon9 is my son and I need to add some information to this problem.

The remote starter works fine, press the button and it starts. You can do this multiple times.But wait 10 minutes or so, and when you press the remote start button the car does not start but the alarm goes off.

If you then press the un-lock button on the remote, the alarm stops and the car remotely starts.

any suggestions....its driving us crazy

Can anyone else comment on this problem?

And, is putting a negative on the blue wire in the door the only place to disarm the factory alarm. Is this the correct approach?

Ed

Quoting ED: "The remote starter works fine, press the button and it starts. You can do this multiple times.But wait 10 minutes or so, and when you press the remote start button the car does not start but the alarm goes off.  If you then press the un-lock button on the remote, the alarm stops and the car remotely starts."

Here is what is happening:  when you are waiting that 10 minutes, the factory alarm has passively armed, so when you try to remote start the immobilizer thinks it is being stolen and it will not allow the car to start.  And since the factory alarm disarms with the unlock wire, when you unlock the doors the car now allows the remote starter to start it.  So, Yes! The only way to disarm the factory alarm is to pulse the blue wire that runs from the switch to the key cylinder inside the drivers door before remote start. 

let me know if you need help on how to go about doing so.

So,If I remotely unlock the door prior to remote starting it should work.

Ed

J.Rilla

Thanks for your input.

When my wife got home I remotely unlocked the doors,then remotely started the car. Seems to work o.k.(not alarming) I then remotely relocked the doors with the car running.That also works.

So, for the short term, It will be a three button operation. Its cold here in NJ and I'm working outdoors. When the weather warms up a little, I'll get into the drivers door to properly disarm the system via the blue wire.

Any hints on removing the  2002 accord - ex drivers door?

Thanks for your help..

Ed

If you do not want to pull apart the drivers door there is also an orange wire coming out of the passenger door into the ECM behind the pass. side dash panel.  I will have to double check the exact position # but it is either a solid orange or orange with silver dots going into the green plug closest to the firewall. It is a ~24 cond. plug I beleive. 

If you connect this wire to ground it will unlock all doors and disarm alarm. It is the wire for the passenger side key cylinder unlock signal, to the ECM.  The trick is deciding if you want to have all doors unlock @ time of starting or not.  Because when running, the factory remotes disable..so you would have to relock manually if you wanted it locked (as opposed to unlocking manually when using the blue wire in the drivers door). 

It was recommended to me (prior to the install in my 99 Accord ex) to use a gray wire coming from the drivers rear door to one of the green plugs in drivers side ECM console.  If you hear this and get the notion - avoid this at all costs, as it will produce a very similar effect to what you have now - except a bit trickier (it employs a timer circuit and if connected to a pulsed output - will re-arm the instant the ground pulse stops = instant alarm with the car running = car shutting down fuel pump on alarm, R.S. trying to re-start, etc. very unpretty.).   

Just food for thought...good luck with the install. 

Oh, and to answer your original question above (and at the risk of not repeating exactly what jr said..):

Yes, the blue wire is the best wire to use in this vehicle.

It performs no other function then signal that the drivers door key cylinder has triggered to unlock. This is the only input on the vehicle that will not rearm automatically after 15 seconds due to Hondas fear of owners locking their keys in the car somehow, and at the same time will not actually energize the un/locking solenoid.  

There is another wire coming off the key cyl to the control unit that will unlock all doors same as the orange on the passenger side..and I believe this is timed @ 20 sec (for relock, and re arm also).  The passenger side (org. wire) will only do this if the vehicle has not seen power to ign #2 after xx amount of seconds. Once it has, it will not re (auto) lock.

Sorry if its too much info...I did the first Accord with the factory alarm still connected and usable (in my own car actually) and it got me pretty good.  I think I still owe sercurinu a 6 pack for saving me that time ;-).  Any others I have done have had aftermarkets in them or LX w/add on's etc. ..which is a different animal entirely.

Sorry JRilla, Im a wordy one sometimes, I think they now know more then they ever wanted to about these few wires in their car ;-).  Sorry for repeating the org. wire thing, I was kind of confused myself after reading all the posts oops. 

Yeah, the box in the drivers door is like a mini ecm I beleive. It has databus going between the main unit and itself - to prevent the avg. theif from figuring out how to disarm it through the doorjamb.  Least thats what I can figure?

Damon9 - keep us posted on your results, good luck with the work.