Passlock II

I have always done it the way you explained it from designtech. Haven't had problems yet. I think the problem you might be having is whenever it is cold the resistance changes not letting the car start

try this    https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/1048.pdf

Ok, 2 things:

1.  This tells you to take the reading while the key is in the crank position, is that correct? If so do you need to reverse the leads like the other two methods suggest and take the higher of the two? Why is it that they all are different? This one says take your reading in the crank position, design tech says take the reading before you crank and then after as well, and the method that has worked for me until now, unless it is the bypass module, says to read while it is running.

Well, I guess I can try all three and compare results, I will still accept any feedback that is out there

2.  Just curious, what is the second relay doing in that diagram, all it does is ground the wire that is being used as a trigger for the relay.  Is it a pulsed output on the unit the diagram is meant for?

Thanks diabloed

I do a permanent bypass of all Pats and Passlocks that I encounter. I don't like the bypass modules because it is just one more part that can fail. The system you are installing should have it's own starter kill. I charge $75 to $100 for my bypass because the customer can now get cheap door keys cut to use in the ignition. It really pays for itself.

For Passlock II start the vehicle and cut the yellow wire. strip back the black (BLACK/ orange) ground reference wire and attach DMM both ways between the yellow key side and the black wire. Using the higher # make up a custom resistor +/- 2%. Connect between the black and yellow car side and shut off the vehicle. Restart the vehicle and if it runs you are done.

Yeah chuck, thats exactly how I have been doing it and it has worked with the bypass modules until now.  for the passlock II though you actually do not have to permanently bypass the device if you use yourvground out when running to trigger a relay that applys the resistor.  I charge way too little for my add-ons and bypasses because I dont want to scare off the business.  I cant believe you get 75 dollars for the cost of a trimpot and about 15 minutes of your time.  And on top of it I cant believe anyone would consider it a favor to permanently bypass an anti-theft device.  I can see if it is a VATS because of the keys, but otherwise my customers dont like the term "permanent bypass".  Thanks for your confirmation that my method works.  I have officially abandoned my use of  passlock bypass modules.  They suck a$$.   

Here is a question though: Why does the passlock device not work sometimes within a half hour of installing the bypass, meaning I have started the car with the key with no resistor attached and the yellow wire cut.  Basically I dont feel comfortable until I ahve tested it an hour later. 

Re: Permanent bypass of Pats and Passlock. It comes down to salesmanship.

Benefits: 1) You don't have to worry when a bypass module is going to fail.

                 2) Vehicle still has at least one starter kill on the new system.

                 3) Cu$tomer saves money and time in long run by getting cheap door keys cut to use.

                 4) Extra money in your pocket for basically helping them out.

                 5) New sales opportunity  to offer Fleet customers.

I service the Tampa Bay area and with all the water, beaches and older people there are alot of lost keys.

Who wants to go to a Ford dealer with their Taurus or Mustang and spend $79 on a new Pats key and wait up to an hour and spend another $35+ getting it programmed.

Fleet managers are constantly replacing lost keys so why not get a piece of the pie.

Any more questions?