2003 Mitsubishi Galant add on Alarm

Let me preface this post with the fact that I am NOT a professional installer, I've done many radios, amps and alarms for myself and friends, but I do not make a living from it. That being said...

I have installed (sort of) an add on alarm to the Keyless entry system in my 2003 Mitsubishi Galant, the model is and Audiovox PRO 9230. This uses the factory remote to arm/disarm the system.

The wiring diagram for the alarm shows either - or 12V for the arm and the disarm needs a 2 wire connection where one goes to 12V+ and one to ground and the system will disarm.

I temporarily wired up the 12V+ arm/disarm to the door lock motors lock and unlock from the drivers door which are blue with red and blue with black stripes and I grounded the alarms disarm #2 red with black stripe wire just to get the system to work, not correctly though. It arms and disarms through the remote but it is also arming and disarming through the door lock switches and the door lock.

I've checked the outputs of the wiring diagram for this vehicle and cant seem to find the correct connections.
They are the same for the 2004.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=29979&KW=2004+galant

If I use the OEM alarm disarm for the ground the switches and lock still disarm the unit.

I need to get a ground when the remote is pressed but not when the door unlock switch is pressed or door lock turned with the key.

I've checked the posts here for info regarding these connections and cant seem to figure how to set this up without having the system disarm with the door locks and switches.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Glenn

Use the Factory Alarm Arm (light GREEN/ black)(- neg.) found at pin 42 at the ETACS ECU which is attached to the back of the fuse box.

Use the Factory Alarm Disarm (red)(- neg.) pin 25 at the ETACS ECU.

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Steve G

Thanks Steve, i thought I tried this yesterday but realized I am still trying to uswe the 12V from the unlock switch.

Will post results...

When you press unlock on the factory transmitter do all the locks unlock for all doors with the single press?

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Steve G

Use 2 diodes inline on both the power lock and power unlock wires at the keyless entry module. Make sure you have the band on the diodes facing the keyless module. Attach the trigger wires for your add-on alarm on the band side of the diode. You can use the diagram on this Hornet 700T install manual on page 19 under CONNECTING DOOR LOCK INPUTS IN VEHICLES WITHOUT DRIVER'S PRIORITY DOOR UNLOCK.https://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/hornet/N700T.pdf

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Steve G

iskidoo wrote:

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When you press unlock on the factory transmitter do all the locks unlock for all doors with the single press?

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From a locked state the first press on the transmitter unlocks the drivers door only, a second press unlocks the other 3.

iskidoo wrote:

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Use 2 diodes inline on both the power lock and power unlock wires at the keyless entry module. Make sure you have the band on the diodes facing the keyless module. Attach the trigger wires for your add-on alarm on the band side of the diode. You can use the diagram on this Hornet 700T install manual on page 19 under CONNECTING DOOR LOCK INPUTS IN VEHICLES WITHOUT DRIVER'S PRIORITY DOOR UNLOCK.https://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/hornet/N700T.pdf

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Now I understand what you are saying. If I use an unlock at a passenger door then it'll get 12 volts and not disarm through the door lock switch (as this opens all the locks with one press at the switch).

It would seem that I would need a relay to keep this at ground until the this switch is pressed though otherwise the system will not disarm.

Either way, the second problem is with the door key lock. It works like the transmitter: one turn and it only unlocks the drivers door, a second turn and it unlocks the passenger doors.

Thanks again,
Glenn

Its getting late and i didnt understand what I wrote I dont expect anyone else to so let me try again.

If I use the 12V unlock from the passenger door lock actuator then it'll get 12 volts and not disarm through the door lock switch (the door lock/unlock switches unlock all the doors with the first press).

It would seem that I would need a relay to keep this at ground unless the switch is pressed, otherwise the system will not disarm with both alarm disarms getting 12V.

Either way, the second problem is with the door key lock. It works like the transmitter: one turn and it only unlocks the drivers door, a second turn and it unlocks the passenger doors.

Thanks again,
Glenn

I don't know why your not using negative triggers.

Power Lock purple -   pin 33 at ETACS ECU    
Power Unlock lt. GREEN/ red -   pin 34 at ETACS ECU

Cut each of those and put the diode in-line on each. Band on the diode facing the keyless unit.

GREEN WIRE: ARM INPUT
Connect this wire on the band side of the diode of the purple lock wire which will receive a negative pulse when the driver's door is locked using the remote transmitter.

RED WIRE : DISARM INPUT #1
Connect this wire on the band side of the diode of the lt. GREEN/ red unlock wire which will receive a negative pulse when the driver's door is unlocked using the remote transmitter.

RED w/BLACK TRACE WIRE : DISARM INPUT #2
Connect this wire to chassis ground.

Stop messing with the actuators and 12 volts and passenger side locks.

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Steve G