Window roll up module in Civic simple

After reading through countless threads about window roll-up modules and looking at Civic wiring diagrams, I still have a few questions before I begin the install.

Details:
1999 Honda Civic Si (coupe)
Avital Phoenix 2 alarm - Wiring diagram
Smart 4-window roll-up module from Asianwolf.com - Supplied diagram

The goal is to hook up the window module to fully close the windows using aux. channel 2 and open the using aux. channel 4.  This is because it doesn't look like my alarm has armed (-) output.   So...

1. With the window motor having only two wires, how do you connect 4 more to it: 2 for UP and 2 for DOWN operation?  I'm assmuing everything is done between the switch and the motor where only two wires are connected.  Where then do you put 4 wires coming from the window control module?  The fact that I cannot understand the wiring diagram provided with the window module does not help my cause :(

2. Is it possible to install the module while only opening the driver's side door panel and working only at the master switch?  I ask because the driver's side has switches for both but I'm not sure if the passenger side will interfere.  If so, I would leave the module in the door, weatherproofed of course, and cut the install time in half!

Civic Si window wiring diagram: here (too big to post)

Thanks for your time!
Adi

I'm working on a response to your Question.

Simply Comibine the up and down wires together and attach them to the correct wires. IE: GREEN/ Black with BROWN / BLue, and Green with brown. All it does is reverse the polarity to make the windows go up and down. and yes you should be able to wire everything from the drivers door

REVERSAL REST @ Ground Install

Double check the Factory Wires 'cause I did it from memory
Install at Driver Door
Cut Factory UP / DOWN wires in Half and connect:

DOWN:
Driver:
GREEN / Black =  Red / Blue Motor Side
GREEN = Red / Blue Switch Side
Passenger:
BLUE / Black = Blue / Orange Motor Side
BLUE = Blue / Orange Switch Side

UP:
Driver:
BROWN / Blue = Red / Yellow Motor Side
BROWN = Red / Yellow Switch Side
Passenger:
WHITE / Blue = Blue / Yellow Motor Side
WHITE = Blue / Yellow Switch Side

Connect the UP Activation wire ( YELLOW ) to your GRAY wire that goes to the Starter Kill
Connect the DOWN Activation Wire to Channel 2??

RED = Constant 12 volt +
Black = GROUND

Thank you guys for the quick and helpful replies! 

This is my old diagram.  Same as mo's except his intercepts the passenger side upstream of both the motor and switch.  Is that OK?

Hmmm.. this could be a lot easier than I thought.  I pulled out the master switch and its plug seems to have all the needed wires. It looks as if its possible to just cut and splice in the window module goodness there, then run the 12v/gnd/trigger wires through the doorpanel toward the alarm using a coat hanger with the doorpanel a little loose.  This is in line with mo12v's post.  Is it really that easy?

Here's the pinout of said master switch plug:

Again, thanks for all your help guys!
Adi

Well, something's not right :/

I wired the driver's side window for both up and down (triple checked wires) while completely ignoring the passenger's side.  I cut the mode selection wire for "2-window up and down," and I hooked up the 12v+/ground to a separate bettery at 11.6V.

Finally, to test all this, I grounded the YEL / WHT activation wire on the same battery.  The module's internal relays just clicked three times - no window movement.  I moved the window half-way down and tested the UP activation (YEL), still no go.  Same clicks.

The OE switch works fine on both windows so no fuses are blown.  The module's inline fuse is also intact.

Up:
BROWN / Blue = Red / Yellow Motor Side
BROWN = Red / Yellow Switch Side

Down:
GREEN / Black =  Red / Blue Motor Side
GREEN = Red / Blue Switch Side

What am I doing wrong?

Adi

I'm gonna try hooking up the other window and a jump start battery at 13.5V. before it starts raining.

Adi

Bleh.  It's a no-go :(

I tested for 12v being put out by the module and I got nothing.  Used two multimeters, both trigger wires, and tested every possible combination (both left and right windows), and blah blah blah.  Module gets 12v and good ground.  There is continuity between corresponding pairs (so the switch would work) but never any voltage when triggered.

Module is probably busted.

Or is grounding the trigger wires straight to a battery not the same as being grounded by the alarm?  Sigh.

Adi

Did U Reverse the wires?

DOWN:
Driver:
GREEN  =  Red / Blue Motor Side
GREEN / Black = Red / Blue Switch Side
Passenger:
BLUE  = Blue / Orange Motor Side
BLUE / Black = Blue / Orange Switch Side

UP:
Driver:
BROWN  = Red / Yellow Motor Side
BROWN / Blue = Red / Yellow Switch Side
Passenger:
WHITE  = Blue / Yellow Motor Side
WHITE / Blue = Blue / Yellow Switch Side

Thanks for your help MO, but the multimeter reads 0.00V for any given pair of wires you listed above, not 12v(+) or 12v(-).  Are you saying that the "smart" window module cuts itself off when its connected in a room... with a battery... and probes connected to it.

Adi

quick99si wrote:

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 Are you saying that the "smart" window module cuts itself off when its connected in a room... with a battery... and probes connected to it.

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mo12v] wrote:

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QUOTE=quick99si] Are you saying that the "smart" window module cuts itself off when its connected in a room... with a battery... and probes connected to it.

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I was just giving a hypothetical... maybe it would work in the car but not when being synthetically tested.

Adi

mo12v] wrote:

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ome Units detect a LOAD.......
Have you checked Both the UP & DOWN Wires for Voltage, when the Yellow Activation wire is GROUNDED? 

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Yessir, both UP and DOWN, and all combinations thereof (in case the manufacturer's wire colors were off), when the YELLOW wire is grounded, and then again when the YEL/WHT wire is grounded (again, just to make sure).  And no potential difference across any wires.

The relay(s) click three times when the module is energized, but like I said, no voltage output anywhere.

It didn't work in the car with one window hooked up with wires checked in both ways (as directed, and reversed).

Adi

Evolution-UK wrote:

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after reading back i thought about something.....

Did you use a different battery to power window closure unit as opposed to the one in the vehicle?

If so then that is your problem.

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Thanks for reading the thread, and to answer your question, yes I did use a diff battery (a spare car battery and a jumpstart battery).  Could you please elaborate why this would be a problem?  The key was set to ignition on in the vehicle and the extra batteries shown to be working.

The fact remains that when testing with 11.6 and 13.5V batteries individually (connect both pos and neg terminals to module, and use neg terminal to ground the trigger wire), the module did not put out any voltage on the control wires that feed the motor - tested all combinations.

The only voltage besides the red and black wires, was across the cut BLK / WHT wire at 2v if I recall correctly (2 and 4 window setting)

Adi