2000 F-150 remote start

A couple of queries with installing a Rattler remote start with a 2000 F-150.  I had the starter on my old Dakota, so took it off when I switched vehicles, and installed it yesterday on the F-150.  Things went well except I realized after the install that I was working this time with a Transponder key situation, soon discovering that when it would only run with the key in.

Question #1... if I wait for a while to outwit the transponder, can it cause any trouble on cold nights if I leave a spare key in the ignition so it will start?  I don't want to get into any situation where the computer thinks there is tampering and shuts something down semi-permanently (causing a tow to the dealer to get it reset).

Question #2... I found I have a DEI 555U device (a couple of them in fact) that I got on ebay as part of a bunch of stuff) but I don't have the "antenna" that is to go around the key tumbler unit.  Is that a particular "antenna", or could it be duplicated with a couple of turns of wire from the 555U?

3 to 4 wraps of 18 - 24 guage wire will do

A Relay with wrap around Key & Ignition switch works also..........
Like this:

https://www.wiringinstructions.com/236.htm

Thanks guys!  Since I have the 555u unit, I'll probably go that route rather than the key-wrap approach. 

In either case, does the transponder defeat (555u, or wiring trick) need continuous power (ignition) while the vehicle is running, or just power while it is being cranked (starter)?

I installed a Rattler remote start on my 2000 F-150, and ran into the transponder in key issue.  I'm going to get around that shortly with a transponder by-pass unit, but noticed in some of the tech info on bypasses that some cars do a "check key" and pick up that there are TWO keys in use when you go onto normal operation, one in the ignition and one in the bypass.  Anyone experienced with the Ford system to know if they do any "check key"?

I guess the process is an extra wire connection from the check key circuit to disable the bypass when you go to normal key, but I'd prefer to know if I'll need this up front.

Thanks.

Thanks KarTuneMan, but the question I had concerns a "key check" sequence.   Apparently some vehicle security systems are aware that there is more than one transponder key int he circuit and regard this as a possible theft attempt (don't know why).  The security brains sense your bypass key, but then also pick up your real key when you insert it in the ignition and finds fault with their being two apparent transponders.  I was wondering if Ford happened to use this system.   The bypass instructions for this recommend finding a wire from the normal ignition key pickup unit that sends the signal indicating a key in the ignition, and tapping that to the bypass unit as a shut off lead so the bypass is disabled as soon as a real key is in the hole.

MO's experience would indicate that Ford likely doesn't use this approach, so I'll go with a normal bypass install and assume it won't mind having two keys around.

Thanks.

However, thinking more about your post, KarTuneMan, I had been wondering where to tap the bypass unit into the RS, and you indicated the "Status Output", which I needed to know.  You were likely then indicating that the bypass would be disabled from receiving anything from this status output a second or two after the normal key was turned.   

My Rattler manual doesn't indicate any + - polarity for the status output, but if it's + I can use if for a relay.  Bypass wants a ground when engaged.   The Rattler also has a 200ma  "2nd status" output that is negative, but I'm not sure how long it stays engaged.  It's programmable for defogger.

Thanks

fwperry wrote:

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My Rattler manual doesn't indicate any + - polarity for the status output

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Not sure what Model Rattler you are installing..................But the BLUE wire is NEGATIVE Output for Staus wire.........
Also shows on your "Wiring Quick Reference Guide" in Instructions

This is a 369D and the Status Output wire is blue.    Probably negative then, if you say so!  My Rattler is an ebay model for about $20, so although I have an owners guide, I don't recall a Quick Reference Guide.

This is the second vehicle I've had it on, so I'm fairly comfortable with the basic install (all soldered and taped in a workmanlike manner).  Just never ran into the transponder issue with my old '91 Dakota.  Works fine in the F-150 with the key in the ignition, so I'm presuming a good install once I do the bypass.  I learn a little more every time, but value the experience of you guys on The12Volt greatly.   I'm a believer in doing a lot of research first, and then proceding cautiously.  I don't think I would make much money for my time at an install unless I charged several hundred $$!!!  It used to be that a wiring mistake could cost you a blown mini-fuse, but these days the consequences of stupidity can mean a lot of $$$.   I use the carpenters adage.... "measure twice... cut once."

Thanks!

I downloaded wiring diagrams from a number of sources for remote start install on 2000   F-150 light duty (4.2)

Most agree on wiring colors, except one from Bulldog indicates Ignition 3 as LightBlue/Pink with the instruction "use this wire ONLY if vehicle has rear anti-lock brakes"   (their caps on ONLY)

I had been going with ignition 1 instruction of Dark Blue/Light Green, and ignoring any use of ignition 3, but the instruction above is ambiguous...

Did they mean  1.  You ONLY can make use of this wire if  the vehicle has anti-lock brakes   or....

2.  If the vehicle has anti-lock brakes, you should ONLY use this wire for your ignition wire (not the others)

???????

Can anyone with F-150 experience relate to this instruction?

Thanks.

Power up like you see this:

Ignition Switch Layout:
Ignition #1 - D BLUE/L GREEN..........Powers Ignition Coil (Primary Ignition)
Ignition #2 - GRAY / YELLOW.............Powers Blower Motor.
Ignition #3 - L BLUE/PINK.............Powers Rear ABS Module. * Ignition #4 - RED / L BLUE..............Powers Heat/Ac Controls. ** Accessory - BLACK/ L GREEN.............Powers Radio & Windshield Wipers.
* Wire Not Needed With 4 Wheel ABS. (Wires Present But Have No Function)
** RED / L BLUE Wire In Some Vehicles Is Found As RED / BLACK.

Further....

I checked the "Status Output" and other leads from that connector when starting, and it indicated + voltage on this model, all of them at about 6.5 volts.  Is that enough to trigger a relay for grounding the transponder bypass?

Seeing this lower voltage, I tried running things by getting 12v from a regular ignition output, but that was dumb on my part, since those wires are still energized back from the normal vehicle ignition when the key is used following RS, so the transponder bypass was still signalling at the same time as the key....  ignition security didn't like that situation.

I see there is a "2nd status/rear defogger" output (-200mA) indicated on the second connector that might be what I am looking for to trigger the transponder bypass without the use of a relay.

Success!  :o)

I had a go at it last weekend and things didn't go well... Stupid mistake-- since I had second thoughts about the status wire, I went for triggering a relay for the transponder bypass with an ignition wire from the RS.  That was wrong because the ignition wire was being energized from the regular ignition as well and therefore the bypass was engaged ALL the time.  Double key, alarm triggering, etc., etc.  When I couldn't make sense of it, I just snipped a wire to disable it, and told my wife I was giving up on it and would take it out later.  Later, with just a bit of thinking I realized what the problem was.  You don't think as well upside down on a truck floor.

Actually, I read the posts last week by the fellow having trouble with another F-150 and giving up, abandoning several trucks he had lined up and offering to sell stuff.  I said, "No way!  I've got to beat this thing."  Half an hour after work this evening and it appears to be working fine.  HA!

Thanks MO in particular!

Now that things have gotten cold and I'm actually starting to use the remote, I find there is still a lingering problem. 

The truck starts fine, but stops two minutes after starting.  The minimum running time on the Rattler setup is 12 minutes, so I don't think it's that (time setup).  Something seems to be taking place at the two minute mark.... any suggestions?

What if there is residual voltage on the brake wire?  What are the approaches there?