Door locks, trunk pop, remote start probs.
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=6360
Printed Date: July 17, 2025 at 5:01 PM
Topic: Door locks, trunk pop, remote start probs.
Posted By: wlg83
Subject: Door locks, trunk pop, remote start probs.
Date Posted: December 07, 2002 at 8:01 PM
Ok. I am installing an alarm and a remote start on a 2002 Chrystler Sebring convertible. I already have all of the info on the car from a post in the vehicle info database( https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=7&TopicID=5751&PagePosition=1#thread ). Things didn't go as planned. I wired everything up as directed. BTW, the alarm is a DesignTech First Defense Deluxe(29646), with the remote that can control 4 separate vehicles. The remote start is an Audiovox add on, not sure of the model #. As for the alarm, I programmed the remotes and started checking everything out. I have no trouble with entry points triggering the alarm(pass/driver doors, trunk and hood) and the built in shock sensor is working just fine. The parking lights work fine, as well. However, the remote start is not being activated, though I tested it and the aux output that triggers it is fine. The Power locks aren't doing anything at all, and neither is the trunk pop. I have narrowed my troubles with all of these things to be the relays, but I haven't a clue what went wrong. One idea I came up with for the trunk... The dash button for popping the trunk is a simple push-on switch with tow wires going to it. Couldn't I just tap into one of these wires for the trunk pop? I wired it as the left relay in the diagram linked above with no luck. The locks... Once again I wired this as the diagrams showed. Since the alarm has built-in lock relays, could I just set the polarity to + and put the resistors inline to the locks? I still don't know what I did wrong with the relay that goes between the AUX output and the remote start module. The output from alarm is - and so is the input. Link to relay? I will look for it as soon as I post this. It seems I just don't have a good grasp on relays yet. Thanks in advance Beginner.
Replies:
Posted By: 10nesne1
Date Posted: December 07, 2002 at 8:20 PM
Chrysler | Sebring Convertible | 2001-2002 |
Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes | Function | | | Vehicle Color | Location | Start: | | | YELLOW | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS * | Ignition #1: | | | BLUE | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | Ignition #2: | | | GREEN/ RED (SMALL) | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | Ignition #3: | | | N/A | | Accessory: | | | BLACK/ ORANGE & BLACK/ WHITE | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | Brake Light: | | | WHITE/ TAN (+) | AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL | Tach Signal: | | | ANY WIRE AT COIL OR INJECTOR | THAT IS NOT GREEN OR LT. GREEN | Parking Lights: | | | BLACK / YELLOW (+) | AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH | Headlights: | | | PURPLE / WHITE (+) | AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH | OEM Alarm Disarm: | | | LT. GREEN/ ORANGE | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM *** | OEM Alarm Arm: | | | LT. GREEN/ ORANGE | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM *** | Diesel Glow Plug: | | | N/A | | Clutch Bypass Wire: | | | N/A | | Notes: | | * This Vehicle Is Equipped Wiith Chrysler's Smart Key Engine Immobilizer. See Installation Note #144 - Bypassing Transponder Passive Theft System Diagram. |
Chrysler | Sebring Convertible | 2001-2002 |
Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors and Notes | Function | | | Vehicle Color | Location | Constant +12 Volts: | | | PINK/BLACK | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | Starter Kill: | | | YELLOW | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS * | Ignition +12 Volts: | | | BLUE | IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS | Dome Lights/Superv: | | | TAN & TAN/RED (-) | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM ** | OEM Horn: | | | BLACK/ RED (-) | STEERING COLUMN HARNESS | Power Lock: | | | WHITE/ GREEN | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM **** | Power Unlock: | | | WHITE/ GREEN | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM **** | Trunk Release: | | | BLACK/ WHITE (5-WIRE) | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM ***** | Alarm Input Wire: | | | TAN & TAN/RED (-) | IN A 26 PIN CONNECTOR AT BCM ** | Notes: | | ****This Wire Rests At Ground. See Installation Note #232 - Connecting For Trunk Release Diagram. |
Posted By: 10nesne1
Date Posted: December 07, 2002 at 8:24 PM
Posted By: bluescreen1
Date Posted: December 07, 2002 at 9:32 PM
if your alarm's output is negative and your car start input requires a negative then you do not need a relay in between the two.
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Ruben
Innovative Sounds
Phila., Pa.
Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: December 07, 2002 at 11:31 PM
you should always use relays on resistance locks otherwise you wont get the true resistance value from a 500 ma output
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: December 08, 2002 at 2:44 PM
No relay is needed from the auxillary output of your Designtech to the input to the Audiovox.....Audiovox should be blue with black if it's the model I'm thinking of..... is it an AS-9075? The trunk release pushbutton on the dash is a simple negative trigger, and no relay would be required. Unfortunately, the switch is disabled when you turn the ignition off, so you'll need to 5-wire the BLACK/ white exiting the BCM. Since you said your alarm has built-in lock relays, yes, of course you can take advantage of them. As you said, attach the input to fused, constant positive. Attach the appropriate resistors to the unit's lock and unlock outputs, and attach those to the white green at the BCM. But if you want us to help you figure out the problem, we're going to need more information......have you tested the wires in the car to make sure they're the correct ones? (I sure hope so!) What (if anything) happens when you try to operate the intended functions? Tell us how your relays are set up. Also, installing two separate units (alarm and remote start) into one car is an unneccessary pain for a professional, and potentially an install nightmare for a novice----just be prepared to spend some extra time getting the two to work together properly.
Posted By: wlg83
Date Posted: December 16, 2002 at 11:52 PM
OK. Still have not been able to toy with the car since my original attempt. I must have forgotten to check the E-Mail notify, this whole time I thought no-one had helped, very strange for this site, you guys are awesome. The remote start is an Auto Security Audiovox AS-9151N, packaged with an RF antenna extender(AS-9166), unused.
To engage the door lock relays, should I wire the Alarm's lock outputs to be negative or positive pulse? I assume negative, just as in the Ford Probe diagram. Doing it that way will result in a positive output from the relay to the lock wire?
As for the trunk. I should wire the relay as follows?:
87 -Fused 12V(+)
87a-BCM side of cut Trunk wire
86 -Fused 12V(+)
85 -To alarm negative trunk pop (-) output
30 -Opposite BCM side of cut Trunk wire
Two unrelated questions. Does DesignTech have a good track record? I have had(despite my own problems due to lack of experience) good luck with installs so far. And where did the relay pic posted by 10nesne1 come from? Is this sort of thing included in OMEGA CD V2.0 "the disc"? Was considering purchasing one.
As always, thanks for helping this 19 year old novice.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 17, 2002 at 12:29 AM
If you wire up the door lock relays like the one posted by 10nesne1 on December 07, 2002 at 9:24 PM then you will need the pulse to be a (-) trigger. As far as the trunk release, you need to hook up a relay like one of the two on this diagram: 
As far as DesignTech is concerned , I have heard mixed reviews with them ( but what company doesn't ). The relay diagram from above id from the Bulldog Security site. The Oemga CD will have something like this but not exactly. ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: wlg83
Date Posted: December 17, 2002 at 12:35 AM
Concerning the switch/motor sides of the cut wire for the trunk release.... the "Switch" side would be that on the BCM side(assuming I take the wire coming downward from it).
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 17, 2002 at 1:33 AM
Yes that would be correct.
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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: wlg83
Date Posted: December 24, 2002 at 6:25 AM
Ok. All of your time in explaining worked. The alarm and remote start are working great EXCEPT....(I knew there'd be a catch) The remote start works, but shuts down after about 5 seconds of runing. Tach wire? I took the tach signal form an injector wire, not grn. (middle innjector on the firewall side of the engine). Is it possible that a tach signal from the engine needs to be taken from more than one point?
Thanks again to all those who have helped before, I feel so much batter about this, just need to get more installs under my belt. I tried getting a job at both Circuit City and Best buy for experience, but they want people with prior experience. The other local, small shops are either run by cokeheads or just too slow in business to bring a new person inn. Any ideas? HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Posted By: radsta
Date Posted: December 24, 2002 at 6:59 AM
Dear Beginner- I was doing that same car yesterday, and the info you got from the other guys worked perfectly ! That's a tough car- too many extras for a good job. ours took about two hours. You'll surely find the members of this forum to be a great group ! Keep trying on your new career, there's nothing more rewarding (or sometimes-frustrating!) I've been in the biz for 20 years, and worked for small shops, manufacturers and chain stores. I currently have my own shop in NY. It's tough for us small guys, there's always cash flow issues that make it tough to take on new people. I just started a new guy from scratch, and he's doing great ! Keep doing what you can to gain experience- you're not afraid of that Sebring, that's good ! Hook up with a local shop if you can, and just help out. You might start by doing errands or cleanup, but believe me- we all need the extra help and that will go a long way to making contacts and learning some "trade secrets" Good luck to you ! Steve ------------- victor
Posted By: wlg83
Date Posted: December 24, 2002 at 7:05 AM
Hey, thanks Victor. Yeah, I was really amazed at the complexity of the cars electrical system... Readout in the odometer when the lid is open... can't "grinnd" the starter. Did your install include a remote start? What source did you use?
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: December 24, 2002 at 9:51 PM
The tach learning mode on the unit was not programmed correctly or the tach signal that you are using is not strong enough or "dirty" ( not clean and full of garbage ). Try another injector wire ( uncommon colored one ) and relearn the tach signal.
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
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