2004 Mazda Tribute alarm/remote start

Geting ready to install a scytek 4000RS-2W-1) Complete Security and Remote Engine Starter. Just looking for some tips since the last thread was closed(so I know someone learned something from their installation experience. What kind of pats key immobilizer do I use. There are about 4 types of pkf modules made by scytek and I was curious about which has the best luck. Im looking for pics of led placement and advice where to mount the alarm module itself. Any tips appreciated for its my first remote start and I am very timid because the remote start can do damage if not done right. Ford Escape pics appreciated to. Thanks

-------------
Im Rick James

AS far as led placement,you mount it where it can be seen from anywhere outside the vehicle,usually somewhere on the dash in plain view.If you can find a spot in the middle of your dash somewhere,that's a good place.For the brain,behind the dash cluster is a good spot.You don't want it easily accessable from under the dash..The more work you make for the thief,the less chance they have of defeating it.Also make sure you use a battery back up incase they cut you battery power..

-------------
"ole blake"

Hi, I am going to do some documentation on my instal and put it together for others on my 04 Tribute. Im glad I read KarTuneMan's help to get to the 30 amp power and not the 10 amp. I might be in trouble if I didnt read that. Are there any relays used outside of the factorys? It seems everyting is there and I should have to simplyspice and cut the right wires to finish it. Thanks everyone and I hope to help out someone else with my tutorial.

-------------
Im Rick James

I've done a handful of Tributes and Escapes, but only for remote start/keyless; never did an alarm on one. I have a few tricks to share.

--At the keywitch, you have one ignition, one accessory, and one positive keysense. The ONLY thing you need to power up is the ignition-----this way, the radio (and I think the wipers too) will remain off during remote start.

--If you use the negative-trigger parking light wire, the whole entire remote starter only draws .7 amps when on, even with the heater fan turned all the way up; the 10-amp power wire should be plenty.

--For tach, you don't need to pull the cover off the engine. The ECM harness is on the center of the firewall. Use either WHITE/ pink or pink/white for tach at the ECM harness.

--Even if you don't have a factory alarm, try turning the key back and forth in the driver's door; see if it operates the doorlocks and sometimes the hazard flashers.

If so, use the "factory arm" and "factory disarm" wires for your doorlocks. It looks cooler because the hazards flash, and because the domelight turns on when you unlock. Also, these are straight negative-trigger wires; you don't need to use resistors.

--The lock/unlock, arm, disarm, and brake wires can all be found in the driver's kick panel, where the harness runs along the doorsill to the back of the car.

--For the bypass module, I'm not familiar with Scytek part numbers. But you should be able to just use the regular key-in-the-box style.

--There is a little trick to make it easier to install the ring for the bypass module. Lay on your back and look at the underside of the steering column; there is a hole in the plastic not far from the ignition switch.

Turn the ignition on, insert a long pointy tool into the hole, and you can pull the entire keyswitch right out of the column. It is easy to snap right back in too.

--You don't necessarily need to lose one of your keys to do the remote start. Get a keyblank from www.hlflake.com, howardkeys.com, ebay.com, or a local locksmith. You DON'T need to cut the key to fit the car.

The owner's manual outlines how to program a new key, but it goes like this. You need TWO good keys to start.

1. Turn first key on; wait for THEFT light to go out. Turn key off.

2. Turn second key on; wait for THEFT light to go out. Turn key off.

3. Insert blank key into ignition, or ahead-of-time, install it in a proper bypass module. Activate remote starter within 10 seconds; car should start; new key is now programmed.

On our 2004 tribute it says there are only one wire to lock/unlock. Anybody got a diagram of how to do it? IM a visual person I instaled actuators on my last project so I had two wires to two wires which made more sense. All the install is pretty much complete, all I gotta do is make the connections(Im afraid to start the remote stat with all the nightmare stories in here) anyone have extra notes on how to hook up the pkf2 module and the relat block. Im making a nice document of it to help future posters too. Where is the fm antenna most commonly mounted? The brain also? I just want to check my instal to others more experienced to see how to improve. Thanks for any reply

-------------
Im Rick James

Use the top diagram:
https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/14301_Tribute_MAZDA%20MPV%201%20WIRE%20JBS%20UNITS.pdf

-------------
Steve G

Use the "factory arm" and "factory disarm" wires instead-------the connections are easier, no resistor is required, and the job will come out nicer.

--The "factory arm" wire will test as a ground when you turn the key in the driver's door to the lock position. This wire will lock the doors, flash the hazards, and arm the factory alarm if you have one.

--The "factory disarm" wire will test as a ground when you turn the key in the driver's door to the unlock position.
Program your remote starter for double-pulse unlock.

The first pulse will flash the hazards twice, turn on the domelight, and disarm the factory alarm if you have one.

The second pulse from your remote starter will unlock the doors.

Nice shortcut Chris. Never done that vehicle but I hope I remember this if I do get one in. Do they all come equipped with factory security?

-------------
Steve G

It seemed that the factory wiring diagram I got from this forum states the arm/disarm wire to be the same one. Both should be the pink/black wire. Thanks for the info, Ill have to double check this as I head out to get the alarm hopefully finished today.

-------------
Im Rick James

I am using the wiring info in the forum for my install and I cant find the specified dark blue/lt green wire for disabling the factoy alarm. Im trying to test to see which goes to negative when I apply the correct button but no luck. There is a light blue/white wire. Just wondering if any other problems like this have been reoccuring. Ill keep going.

-------------
Im Rick James

test 4 it by unlocking the drivers door with the key. if i remember the lt. green stripe is very faint and hard to see

-------------
Mike Battaglia
Specialized Car Audio
Bensenville IL 60106

Lock: WHITE/ Violet (-) @ Drivers kick panel
Unlock: Pink/White (-) @ Drivers kick panel
OEM Alarm Disarm: Blue/Green (-) @ Drivers kick panel

Same vehicle as the ford escape..

The blue/green wire is in the large harness in the drivers kick panel. It is the only blue/green wire in there. Keep looking..

Mike

OH, I was lloking only in the harness connected to the floor. So it can be in the other harnesses? Awesome, Ill try it. I have the shock sensor done now and the hood pin. Getign closer

-------------
Im Rick James

I was told that the escape and tribute were totaly different as far as wiring even though they are really close. Another question as nightime is crouching in on my install. Should I run the factory alarm disable wire from my scytek unit? I want to leave the horn and parking lights functional like in the factory mode but use my additional siren as well. I was afraid disarming would take out the horn feature if I disable it. Stil looking for my blue/lt gren wire

-------------
Im Rick James

Nightfall has set! Heres what problem(s) I have now.
1. I found the WHITE/ violet wire beside the blue but there are 2 of them, and directly on each side of the blue/green wire. Which do I use?
2. The factory disarm wire coming from my scytek brain,....do I use it?
3. I tried to use the factory arm/disarm wires and now I have good and bad
     GOOD: Dome light works right, Locks when armed
     BAD: No parking light flashes, no unlock.
Im not going into the remote start until I get the alarm function completely right so Tomorrow should be a busy day. Any replies are dearly appreciated. Just to be completely sure,(refer to pic) Everyone agrees the GEM is the one on the left with the two connectors, right?

-------------
Im Rick James

https://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/sxewhodey/31701.JPG

-------------
Im Rick James

you have to do some testing with a DMM (digital Multimeter)

1. I found the WHITE/ violet wire beside the blue but there are 2 of them, and directly on each side of the blue/green wire. Which do I use?

In the kick panel there is only be 1 WHITE/ violet, one blue/green, and 1 pink/white. Stay away from the GEM module there is NO reason to go near it. Looks like you have half the car apart in that picture.

2. The factory disarm wire coming from my scytek brain,....do I use it?

YES. Run it to the blue/green wire in the drivers kick panel. If you have a fusebox in the kick, it's the harness clipped in to the left of the fusebox, if no fusebox, it's the only harness running down in the kick.

"BAD: No parking light flashes, no unlock."

Run your negative unlock wire to the pink/white wire in the drivers kick panel. Not sure what you used to hookup your park lights. The brown (+) park light wire is in the kick panel in the harness to the right of the fusebox, OR if no fusebox in the harness going from the drivers kick to the drivers foot area.

I was trying this step done by Chris. It was unsuccesfull for me, bt it sounds like its the biggest time saver. I ended up going to the kick panel on the drivers side and starting from scratch so far so good. Withyour method do I have to run a relay for the parking lamps?

-------------
Im Rick James

Chris, I tried your way without much luck. I wanted for it to work so badlyand it seems to save so much time but I couldnt get it to work so I went back to making every connection 1 by 1. It wont be as nice but the wiring got the best of me. The remote start wont work but it will turn off the engine so Im sure once I get my pats thingy installed it should work. When I hit the start button I can hear the fuel injector pushing so Im inching closer. Thanks so much for help.

-------------
Im Rick James

You're welcome.

If you're worried about the PATS bypass, there's something simple to do in the meantime----simply put a key in the ignition, and then try the remote start.

--If it works that way, you've got the remote start part right; time to move on to figuring out the bypass.

--If it won't work that way, forget the bypass for now, and figure out what the other problem(s) are.

ut-oh, It doesnt start with keys in the ignition. I do hear the fuel pump go on and the doors lock. That probably eans its the starter wirenot connected correctly, right? I only connected one of the 12V wires but I believe the tribute should use only 1 positive. Ill keep trying Later

-------------
Im Rick James

There are way too many wires from the wiring diagram I cant find. When it says ignition switch, I am assuming that these are the 4 wires coming off the switch itself right? There are a few wires that go to another harness deeper in the dash but they stil dont match the wires in the diagram. Man this is like 4 plus days working tediously to get my wifes starter going. Its getting cold. The four wires are black, brown, WHITE/ purple, and red (all of them have little silver rings around them) One last Thing, my violet starter wire coming from my relay block is barely reading at all. Should it be pushing out 12Volts plus? Right now its at like .02 volts when cranking.

-------------
Im Rick James

Make sure you are looking at the wire coming from the Ignition Switch

Constant 12 volts	YELLOW (10 ga)	DRIVER KICK IN GREEN CONN OF FUSE BOX
Ignition 12 volts	L GREEN/ VIOLET	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter	TAN/LT BLUE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Dome Light	VIO/LT.GREEN (-)	INST.CLUSTER OR 22 PIN PLUG AT GEM
Trunk Pin Switch	SAME AS ABOVE
Parking Lamp	BROWN (+)	DRIVER KICK PANEL
Power Lock	PINK/WHITE	DRIVER KICK **
Power Unlock	SINGLE WIRE SYSTEM	PANEL

Single Wire Door Locks.
* RED / BLUE +12v Is Fused At 10 Amps. Go To Battery or Main Fuse Block For Remote Start +12v ** Door Locks Require Ground For Unlock, Ground Thru 1K Ohm Resistor For Lock

Click Here For Our Databus & Immobilizer Bypass Cross Reference

Accessories
Window Up
Window Down
Ign Key Warn	BLACK/ PINK (+)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Trunk Release
OEM Horn	YELLOW/BLUE (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Headlights	RED / YELLOW (-)	16 PIN WHT CONN COLUMN HARNESS
OEM Alarm Arm	WHITE/ VIOLET (-)	DRIVER KICK PANEL
OEM Alarm Disarm	DK BLUE/LT GREEN (-)	DRIVER KICK PANEL

 Reversal Rest At Ground Window Circuit
* Driver Window Wires Located At Driver Switch. All Other Window Wires Located In Driver Kick Panel

Remote Start
Tach Signal	LT GREEN/ YELLOW	AT PCM, CENTER OF FIREWALL
Ignition #2
Ignition #3
Accessory	BLACK/ LT.GREEN	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Neutral Safety
Brake Light	LIGHT GREEN (+)	AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Reverse Light
Rear Window Defrost	BLUE/ORANGE (-)	WHT CONN LEFT SIDE OF CENTER CONSOLE

 Transponder Bypass

-------------
MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

my prediction? you SUV is going to be towed to mazda.

this is NOT an easy vehicle to cut your teeth on a remote starter.

ignition swith wires are 20awg and in a plug on the left side of the steering column.

transponder needs bypassing during start.

ign switch is fused at 10 amps. can't get power there for your starter if you use (+) parklights.

screw up on the transponder and the car is getting towed.

-------------
Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

woah, the wires are on the left side? I thought at the ignition switch meant rightat (the ignition switch) somewhere to start again Tuesday in the whole hour of light Ill have after work. Shaughn, youre scaring me, hahahah. I got the pkf2 from scytek to go with my astra alarm and its been taking forever and I'm remaining optomistic. Thanks for the left hand side tip though. My hope is renewed.

-------------
Im Rick James

One more thing. I can always use the factory lock/unlock system right, as long as the alarm is unarmed?

-------------
Im Rick James

Hey Mo,
I used a WHITE/ pink wire on the firewall for tach. Are you sure the light GREEN/ YELLOW is right. All the other post say go to WHITE/ pink of vice versa? just curious

-------------
Im Rick James

There are more than 1 way for most installs...........
It is always best to Meter ALL of your wires, even if you know your right........

-------------
MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Extreme1 you motivated me.   I got it going, sometimes a challenge makes or breaks us.   So now I have it going and the pkf2 scytek part worked awesome for the bypass. The alarm has a couple connections left but its cold and I still dont have my svx parts car moved out of the garage. The remote start works great though, I just needed a challenge.   Thanks everyone for the input.   Ill be putting all my pics together in a web page soon for a tutorial for other novices.

-------------
Im Rick James