DEI 504 Stinger DoubleGuard Shock Sensor
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=64776
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 6:12 AM
Topic: DEI 504 Stinger DoubleGuard Shock Sensor
Posted By: salaki
Subject: DEI 504 Stinger DoubleGuard Shock Sensor
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 10:43 AM
Is this a dual stage sensor?
How come I only have one adjustment knob?
Please help me correct my assumption:
Green will be connnected to blue which then connects to blue multiplex input zone 2 into my 791XV.
Shouldn't this be single stage sensor?
Or maybe his sensor is a dual stage but blue/green connected together to multiplex input where this sensor has the ability to provide 0.8 sec pulse for warn and more than 1 sec pulse for trigger which then sensored by the multiplex input..
I ask all this because all of my installs have been straight forward where warn and trigger is separated by blue and green on Aladdin alarm (Gopme)that I just connect straight into the alarm brain.
Thanks again.
David
Replies:
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 11:16 AM
I think that shock sensor (and its lack of installation instructions) are lame. Did you know you can put the cable (wires) on....backwords. COME ON....backwords..... -------------
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 12:15 PM
it's a poor musician who blames his instrument..... i've installed dozens and dozens of units with this sensor and had no problems....it's just a matter of paying attention to what you are doing..... ------------- Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 12:41 PM
I don't blame on the sensor.
I will try to use it to its full capability.
But I just want to confirm whether this sensor is dual or not.
This is how I have it connected now:
I cut the green and connect it to green cause I was under the impression that green is somehow warn and blue is trigger based on the wiring instruction on the back of the sensor.
I did this and I could only get a warn instead of full trigger. I adjust it around then all of the sudden it only triggers full alarm instead of warn.
Then I adjust it again then I can only get to warn even I bang on the window hard.
How is this sensor is suppoed to be installed?
Separate the green and blue or connect them together to "blue wire"?
Can I reasonably expect this sensor to be a dual stage even I connect them together? (meaning light bump means warn where strong bump = full trigger?)
Please discuss with me I want to learn how things work instead of just asking which wires to where...
Thanks,
David
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 12:44 PM
yes it is a dual zone sensor...... impacts of less than .8 trigger warn away and longer/harder than .8 trigger full alarm.... this sensor has been around for years and is very reliable.....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 1:03 PM
kgerry wrote:
yes it is a dual zone sensor...... impacts of less than .8 trigger warn away and longer/harder than .8 trigger full alarm.... this sensor has been around for years and is very reliable.....
Would you be able to explain me why it combines the green and blue together to connect to blue?
Not trying to argue but I want to learn different ways of connecting sensors.
I'm also getting the proximity sensors that it has both blue and green where green (warn) and blue is trigeer.
So shoul I connect these two blue/green from proximity sensors together then connect to green input?
Please help.
Thanks again,
David
Posted By: sharc
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 2:23 PM
Some alarm brains take the green wire (warn away) and blue (trigger) as discrete (separate) inputs. Other alarm brains allow you to multiplex them together to a single line and the brain determines by the timing of the sensor pulse (short or long), whether it will issue a warn away or alarm trigger command. - Jim Design Engineer, Axcera LLC
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 2:42 PM
Jim,
Thanks for the reply.
Let me try this again tonight so I can fully understand how it works..
I think I get it now...at least for the shock sensor one.
Would you clarify on how I should install the proximity sensor?
Being a novice in this 12 volts install, I would think to follow the way the the shock sensor is being install:
Proximity sensor:
Combine green and blue then connect to green (since it's left un connected into the main brain)
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks again,
David
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: October 21, 2005 at 9:37 PM
Yay time for me to butt in. If you want to hook up a prox sensor to the alarm you can hook both the green and blue wires to that extra green wire from the shock sensor harness just make sure you use diodes on each of the wires coming from the prox sensor. diode 1 striped side goes to green wire of prox sensor. diode 2 striped side goes to blue wire of prox sensor. the other sides of both diodes go to the green wire from the shock sensor. Hope this helps. salaki wrote:
Jim,
Thanks for the reply.
Let me try this again tonight so I can fully understand how it works..
I think I get it now...at least for the shock sensor one.
Would you clarify on how I should install the proximity sensor?
Being a novice in this 12 volts install, I would think to follow the way the the shock sensor is being install:
Proximity sensor:
Combine green and blue then connect to green (since it's left un connected into the main brain)
Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks again,
David
------------- Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 22, 2005 at 1:10 AM
Seems to work fine w/o the diode when I tested it.
Can you give me the diode spec?
I don't want to buy the wrong one @ RadioShack.
Thanks,
David
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: October 22, 2005 at 1:18 AM
a 1 amp capable diode will be fine. If it's working without the diodes then so be it. You don't really need them then. It's a force of habit anytime i'm tying 2 wires together like that I alway diode isolate.
-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: sharc
Date Posted: October 22, 2005 at 11:48 AM
1N4000 series will work just fine. The band of the diode (cathode) should be wired facing toward the sensor. - Jim Design Engineer, Axcera, LLC
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 24, 2005 at 10:06 AM
Alarm went off 3am last night.
I will just install the diode just to be on the safe side.
Thanks again to all,
David
Posted By: sharc
Date Posted: October 24, 2005 at 10:44 AM
Do you know which sensor it was that set off the alarm? Shock or proximity? Since you said the alarm went off, I assume it was the trigger line from the sensor(s) and not the warn away that was activated. My battery backup, shock sensor and microwave detector are mounted in the center console of my '01 Blazer. There are (2) lift out storage trays (one within the other) that I can pull out from the flip up arm rest. Mounted all the way at the bottom of the center metal console strut are (4) switches, grouped in (2) pairs. Each group has a red and green rubber boot on the toggle switch. These are my sensor defeat switches. All switches up mean all sensors are connected to the brain. Throwing a green switch down disables the warn away. Throwing a red switch down disables the alarm trigger. There is a green and red switch pair for each sensor. Since both the microwave detector and shock sensor are wired together with diodes, its tough to tell which one has actually activated the alarm. By having the defeat switches, you can eliminate one or the other and find out which one is triggering the alarm. These switches are also very useful to defeat the sensor inputs if your are going to be parked in a place that is prone to setting off your alarm. On the back of my center console, there is a factory plastic access panel (may have been used for an optional ashtray or power source) that I can remove to have access to the settings & LED's on the shock sensor. For my microwave detector, its mounted underneath the integrated cup holder in the center console. If I lift out the dual rubber cup holder insert, I can gain access to the microwave detector adjustments and LED's. Although it's a tad more work in wiring, the switches can help you troubleshoot false alarms and give you a way to defeat them as well. - Jim Design Engineer
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 24, 2005 at 5:17 PM
Sharc,
Seems I'll be installing a "hidden" switch for the proximity too.
And will hook up my tilt w/ "trunk sensor".
I could tell which one went off but I could see that was the proximity because it happened before where there was a car passed by close to the car then the alarm went off.
I think I still have the inner proximity too high.
Thanks again,
David
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: October 25, 2005 at 3:37 PM
Are these the real article? The picture says DEI Stinger Doubleguard, but who knows. Is this another get what you pay for kind of item? For $1.20 each including shipping, they could make good party favors, albeit very strange party favors- 
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 25, 2005 at 3:44 PM
Can't really look at the pics..
But from far, looks like it.
Here's another auction for close look:
https://cgi.ebay.com/Directed-DEI-504-Stinger-DoubleGuard-Shock-Sensor-...
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: October 25, 2005 at 3:58 PM
That's a better picture- I like the transparent case.
Do they come fused like shown in the first link? The big picture shows the fuseholder, but there doesn't seem to be any in the group shot. Maybe that's an indication if it's a clone or DEI brand.
So does this unit in fact have two separate (-) outputs, one for prewarn and one for alarm? My pager uses the separate lines type of scheme, rather than the variable pulse width for differentiating prewarn vs. alarm.
Posted By: salaki
Date Posted: October 25, 2005 at 4:04 PM
The reason why it has the fuse is because it doesn't come w/ alarm unit - just my assumption meaning you have to wire it intoa live constant +.
It does have blue and green as warn and trigger - Negative output.
But when it comes from factory, the Green is tapped into the blue where it only connects to the blue.
And the it only have 1 adjustment for both warn and trigger.
It's kinda hard for me to adjust but it did give you warn if you just hit it soft... then trigger if you hit it hard (the car)
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: October 30, 2005 at 12:58 AM
kgerry wrote:
it's a poor musician who blames his instrument..... i've installed dozens and dozens of units with this sensor and had no problems....it's just a matter of paying attention to what you are doing.....
Read the manual....nothing listed for the "noob"..............If you do not know, you Don't know......... DEI sucks........ -------------
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: October 30, 2005 at 1:01 AM
kgerry wrote:
it's a poor musician who blames his instrument..... i've installed dozens and dozens of units with this sensor and had no problems....it's just a matter of paying attention to what you are doing.....
Read the install manual......NOTHING listed for a "simple" addition to an alarm -------------
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