I’ve really done it this time
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=65185
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 9:55 AM
Topic: I’ve really done it this time
Posted By: overworked2
Subject: I’ve really done it this time
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 12:17 PM
Hey guys, long time no post for me here but now I need help! I was installing my mother inlaws keyless entry and remote start system from Bulldog Security into her 05 Corolla. Now, the problem lies in the C/Lock. In the package came this fancy dual led test probe. So, I put my DMM away to try this fangdangled thing out. Green LED means positive and Red LED means a negative feed. Well in my great wisdom I got confused and thought Red means positive like usual! So, the great genius typing this gave the system a positive feed when it really required a negative. Good move huh? So, I hit the button to test before I realised what had happened. The locks "flickered" but didn't actually lock. Then, nothing. I checked the Bulldogs fuse and it had blown (15amps) I pushed the cars switch and the relay activated but no doors locked! Ahh shhh! I checked the cars C/Lock fuse (25amps!) and it was fine, the relay is clicking so I'm presuming it is fine. I haven't gone to far into it because I don't want the mother in law to know that I'm clueless as to what has gone on. I simply put the car back together and mumbled some excuse to her that I need to get some extra wire and that until I get it the C/Lock is out of action. She is happy with that answer so far. Now guys...please?! Help?! What have I done and what do I need to do fix my stuff up? The dash panel doesn't come out without removing the steering wheel and airbag. What a stupid idea that is but thats how it is put together. So, tracing the wiring back is going to be really dificult. Have I screwed all the actuators? I don't know if I have shorted out any wiring because I never saw/smelt that horrible smell of an accidental weld. C'mon guys! Help please? btw, did I mention that my wife and I married in Australia where I'm from and that my mother in law has only known me for two weeks?....... ------------- Check all advice given with a meter
Replies:
Posted By: silvercivicsir
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:20 PM
i doubt it, the "negative" trigger locks usually rest at 12v, so you should be ok, i bet you blew a fuse in the car. check under the hood, or check the fuse panel.
Posted By: overworked2
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:29 PM
Thanks for the fast reply! I will definetly check that out. Can you or anyone else think of what I should check out whilst I'm doing that? Ican't think of fuse Iwould've blown though. Everything seems to be working fine. ------------- Check all advice given with a meter
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:48 PM
my friend you suffer from inexperience.... not that you bought Bulldog ( which is going to cause you grief anyway ) but that you would ever work on your mother in law's car......those of us in the biz already know that out of a thousand installs you do, the only one that will go wrong is the one you do for friend or family.....and the worst dissatisfied "customer" you can have in your life is a mother in law..... dude, you have my deepest condolences......
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: overworked2
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:52 PM
Well, I've been in the biz for seven years now so I still consider my a noob but I worked on my last mother in laws car and it went like a dream.... Will you come to my funeral? Please? btw, any ideas? ------------- Check all advice given with a meter
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 1:56 PM
as mentioned, probably a fuse...most vehicles are built with multiple protection circuits these days... and also, multiple fuse boxs, make sure you find them all and check all appropriate fuses..... and then use your DMM.... come on, what were you thinking??
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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: overworked2
Date Posted: October 28, 2005 at 2:00 PM
Hey! It looked like a nifty little device that I just had to try out! I have found another use for it though! It's good when tyring to locate the RPM wire! When it flashes it's tits off (Aussie saying) I know I found the jackpot! ------------- Check all advice given with a meter
Posted By: overworked2
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 12:56 PM
Ok, all the fuses are fine. Sometime in the next week I'm going to check where there is power and where there isn't. Any other suggestions guys? ------------- Check all advice given with a meter
Posted By: whitey
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 2:42 PM
integration relay, or that is what toyota calls it. I had a guy do the same thing 3 years ago on a camary. Bill was $600+ from Toyota. and that is Canadian ------------- Visions Edmonton
Installation Manager, DLS
MECP Certified First Class
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 3:03 PM
| RKE Module | PASSENGER REAR QUARTER PANEL | | | Motor Lock | BLUE | IN EITHER KICK PANEL * | | Motor Unlock | RED | IN PASSENGER KICK PANEL * | | Drv Door Unlock | RED | IN DRIVER KICK PANEL * | | OEM Relays | INTERGRATION RELAY AT DRIVER JUNCTION/FUSE BOX |
------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: overworked
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 4:15 PM
Ok, so when you say that it was a $600 bill from Toyota, I'm seriously hoping that you are meaning that it includes, trace and locate fault as well right? Please? Pretty please? Surely it was a $600 relay! m012v: Thank you for that! There is a relay at the Drivers fusebox and I can hear it's coil firing when I press the switch. Is this the relay or am I looking for a different one altogether? Thank you so much for your help guys. -------------
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 4:47 PM
Hmmm.... you could almost buy 2 decent Fluke DMM's for that price....
I tell anyone that works here that I could care less how "computer safe" their shhhty test light is... If I catch them using anything other than a decent multimeter (hell... they can use my old Simpson analog VOM if they can figure it out) I will grab the 24oz hammer and use it on the test light. The fact that you do own a DMM, and decided to use the test equipment provided by the manufacturer of the $29 starter you bought at Wally World (did this one come with the video????) really scares me a lot......
Hope the stealership goes easy on you.....
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: overworked
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 5:30 PM
Gus, my dear sir...... I have actually found good uses for this little test light now. I'm sure you read in my previous statement where I said I had never seen one and simply tried it out and through my own stupidity, I killed it. Not once did I blame the test light. I would never have brought a $29 remote starter. In fact the unit was $80. The usual price of what I'm used to paying in Australia. So, I didn't see the problem with it. Infact, until I work out what the fault is with the car I have since placed the unit into my own car and it's working fine. Hasn't skipped a beat and I don't see why it should. I know it's the best quality out there but shhh! I wasn't going to pay $300 odd dollars on someone elses car! If you read another one of my posts on this forum you will see that I really don't care for fluke either. They haven't done anything that my $45 DMM couldn't do. Infact, unless I'm willing to spend $400, then my old Micronta had more functions (RPM and Dwell Angle readings) -------------
Posted By: whitey
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 8:25 PM
it was time and if i remember right it was the fuse box or what ever the relay pluged into along with it. All i know is I spent a good amount of time on it myself and then sent it to the dealer. I had the same issues you were having. You couls hear the relay click but nothing.
-------------
Visions Edmonton
Installation Manager, DLS
MECP Certified First Class
Posted By: extreme1
Date Posted: October 29, 2005 at 8:50 PM
whitey wrote:
it was time and if i remember right it was the fuse box or what ever the relay pluged into along with it. All i know is I spent a good amount of time on it myself and then sent it to the dealer. I had the same issues you were having. You couls hear the relay click but nothing.
shouldn't you be under the dash of a car somewhere???  ------------- Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 31, 2005 at 8:54 PM
Well, shipping it off do the dealer is a last resort. I mean, with a few relays, as long as the switch and actuators are good, you could always just completely rewire the power locks yourself.
And I use a Power Probe LED test light all the time; I even test tach wires with it. "Overworked" stated it himself----he made an installation error by misreading the test light----it was not the light itself that made any trouble.
Overworked,
Exactly which wire did you power up incorrectly?
Probably the first step is to test the three wires that go to the doorlock actuators.
In the driver's kick panel, you can see two plugs where the wire goes into the doors----The all-lock motor, and the driver-unlock motor are in there, blue and red.
Along the driver's doorsill, running to the back of the car, is the all-unlock motor wire.
All three wires should test as a ground while at rest. When you try to lock the doors, the all-lock wire should be positive.
If you try to unlock with the remote, or by twisting the key in the driver's door, first the driver-unlock will be positive, and then the all-unlock.
If you unlock the doors with the rocker switch, both the driver-unlock and the all-unlock will turn positive.
By the way, I've used the Bulldog test light before and red IS positive----maybe you had it hooked up backwards, or the light itself is defective? Try hooking it up to the car battery and then probe the battery's + and - terminals just to double-check.
Posted By: customcarchris
Date Posted: October 31, 2005 at 10:32 PM
I did almost this exact thing on my car about a year ago.
I was under the dash and clipped unlock wire going to the factory door lock relays which is supposed to be ground to unlock... I was under the dash and the trouble light burnt my arm and I yelled "DAMMIT!" and it just so happened I had 12v in my hand at the time and hit the unlock wire.
This made a good spark and then my locks did the same. You could click the button and the relay would activate, but nothing would happen. I called the alarm manufacturer tech support and found out that you can take apart the factory lock relays and there was a trace burnt off of the circuit board. I just got a little solder and carefully linked the small gap that got burnt back together and they worked and have been for over a year now.
Hope you can get to your factory relays and fix it!
Posted By: overworked
Date Posted: October 31, 2005 at 10:36 PM
1st Chris, thank you for that. A complete rewire was definetly on the cards....but I still really want to restore the original system so will try your advice. 2nd Chris...hahaha. nuff said. -------------
Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: November 02, 2005 at 10:13 AM
that would be the best way to go. what chris has suggested and if you want to test the relay befor you take it out of the curcuit(witch would be a good idea) so not to disturb it as least as possible to get a proper diagnouses. just check to output stage of the relay when fired on by the switch. and that test probe is a very useful tool in my box. it cuts testing down to a min. time. like in a window or door lock curcuit even the exterior lighting its great. i actaully just bought another one of the mac guy it will be here today. a very sought after tool in my profession. good luck and once you get the hang of the probe you'll use it alot.
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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
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