Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Valet 561t into 1997 Grand Prix GTP

I about to order a Valet 561t remote start system for my 97 Grand Prix GTP. What I want to know is do I need any bypass to make this work with the factory key fobs or to work at all? When I installed one on my mothers 00 Century, it needed a bypass because the key had a chip in it. My Grand Prix key has no chip. Also, if someone has a wire color chart for my car I would appreciate it. Thanks!!

-Chris

New members need to start reading the forum rules and guidelines. The info you requested is available by doing a search. Try "97 grand prix" or look under General info - Vehicle Wiring. No bypass is needed.

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Steve G

i have a 99 gt and there it did not need a bypass, they are pretty stright forward as far as the wiring.

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D

MECP First Class Certified Installer.

Nothing is impossable, it's just more expensive.

Do I need to diode isolate any wires? I am just hooking up a remote start to factory everything.

nothing is need extra except if u dont have factory keyless and want to add electronic truck release to the new key fab.......On vehicles with keyless entry, can also use brown (-) at the trunk release relay to the left of the steering column. The brain has a (-) channel that can be use for this and be hooked up straight.....if not then u have to use a reley to create a positive trigger to the BLACK/ white at switch.

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

OK-I am currently hooking up the remote start. There are some wires I don't know where they go. Here they are:

Factory disarm, factory rearm, ignition out(to alarm), (-)activation input, (+)activation input. And there is also a 4pin satellite harness and the install guide just shows a picture of it and doesn't say anything else about it. What is that for? The wires it has are:status output, accessory trigger, starter trigger, and ignition trigger. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Does anybody know? I am driving around with wires haning from my dash so the sooner the better.

mhissticobra wrote:

OK-I am currently hooking up the remote start. There are some wires I don't know where they go. Here they are:
Factory disarm, factory rearm, ignition out(to alarm), (-)activation input, (+)activation input. And there is also a 4pin satellite harness and the install guide just shows a picture of it and doesn't say anything else about it. What is that for? The wires it has are:status output, accessory trigger, starter trigger, and ignition trigger. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

you don't need any of that for a basic alarm/remote start

if your car needs a bypass module then you need the status output wire

Factory disarm, factory rearm - only needed if u have a factory alarm

, ignition out(to alarm) - only need if u have a seperate alarm

, (-)activation input, (+)activation input. - not needed ...only needed if u have a seperate alarm or something like that (example) if u wanted a push button start in the car or something like that.

And there is also a 4pin satellite harness - only need for ectra relays for extra accessorys and starter and igniton wires....ur car does not need it....just unhook it and save it

use the blue status wire on the brain.....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

Except for the factory disarm output which should go to:

Factory Alarm Disarm ORANGE / black - DKP 32 pin plug pin 5

Activation inputs are going to be need to remote start. You need some way of telling the remote starter to start up. It needs a few lock pulses in order to tell it to start up as I don't believe this unit uses remotes.

Use negative activation and hook it to:

Power Lock lt. blue - driver kick panel

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Steve G

Activation inputs are going to be need to remote start. You need some way of telling the remote starter to start up. It needs a few lock pulses in order to tell it to start up as I don't believe this unit uses remotes.

Use negative activation and hook it to:

Power Lock lt. blue - driver kick panel [/QUOTE]

this is not right....that unit comes with remotes..... that would cause his remote start to start every time the door where lock.....u r going to confuse him....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

iskidoo wrote:

Except for the factory disarm output which should go to:

Factory Alarm Disarm ORANGE / black - DKP 32 pin plug pin 5

Activation inputs are going to be need to remote start. You need some way of telling the remote starter to start up. It needs a few lock pulses in order to tell it to start up as I don't believe this unit uses remotes.

Use negative activation and hook it to:

Power Lock lt. blue - driver kick panel

So you're saying that all I have to hook up are those 2 wires (factory disarm and (-)activation). Yes, this unit does not use a different remote, just the stock key fob. What is a DKP? Also, how do I figure out which lt. blue wire to tap into, there are a few of them in the kick panel.

redpeppers wrote:

this is not right....that unit comes with remotes..... that would cause his remote start to start every time the door where lock.....u r going to confuse him....

The unit is an add-on to factory keyless system. He has to wire the activation inputs in order to utilize it.

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Steve G

Any ideas about the lt. blue wire or what DKP stands for? I hate to be a pain in the @ss but I really want to get this damn thing installed.

DKP=driver kick panel? - I am a moron. But I still need to know about the lt. blue wire.

Now I hooked everything up, I turn the car on and the thing wont even turn on, I've checked power and ground and it's all good. Fuses are good, any thoughts?

you need to test the wire with a meter and press the lock button. When it's pressed you will get a negative pulse.

To test the remote start take the negative activation input and touch it to ground for a moment. Whatever the number of activation pulses count is set to in the programming. It may take 1 pulse or 2 or 3. Not sure what the default is. When you have it hooked to the door lock wire you should set it for like 3 pulses. This way it's less likely to be accidentally remote started. If you just wanted to lock the car and the activation pulse count was set to 1 it would remote start each time you hit lock.

Also some vehicles disable the factory keyless transmitter once the engine is running. I'm not sure if you tested that before hand. Start the car and then try using the remote to lock and unlock.

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Steve G

OK-I now have the car starting when I press either lock or unlock 3 times on my factory key fob. - ( I initially hooked the activation wire in to the one in the diagram and it would only start when I hit the lock button in the car 3 times, not the fob.) So now I'm stuck with unlock or lock to activate it. New problem is when the car starts, the factory alarm goes off. I hooked up the proper wire shown also in the diagram (ORANGE / black) and apperently it doesn't work. Any ideas? I want to be able to start the car by hitting the lock button because I do not want my car to be unlocked when it starts. Please help!!

Which wire did you hook from the starter to the ORANGE / black. Did you find the ORANGE / black to be pin 5 of the 32 pin plug in the keyless module?

There may be a wire somewhere in the keyless 32 pin plug that provides a negative pulse when hitting the lock button on the remote. If there is one and it's not the lt blue lock wire then you could tie your activation trigger there. Test for negative on each wire while pressing the lock each time.

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Steve G

https://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/Images.asp?ImageID=226&link=BULLDOG

posted_image

This is a picture of the BLACK MODULE, with the LIGHT BLUE Plug that contains the LIGHT BLUE (-) LOCK wire, WHITE (-) UNLOCK wire and ORANGE / BLACK (-) FACTORY ALARM DISARM wire. There are only (2) Plugs on this module a BLACK and a LIGHT BLUE, this LIGHT BLUE plugs will have all (3) wires in it.

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Steve G

To prevent the unit from starting by pressing the interior lock switch you will need to wire in a diode. Use the diagram on the top of page 20 as a reference from this manual. https://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/hornet/N700T.pdf Only do the lock wire as the unlock is not needed for your application.

This will allow the keyless unit to send a signal to the activation input but not allow input from the lock switch.

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Steve G

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Steve G

iskidoo wrote:

Which wire did you hook from the starter to the ORANGE / black. Did you find the ORANGE / black to be pin 5 of the 32 pin plug in the keyless module?

There may be a wire somewhere in the keyless 32 pin plug that provides a negative pulse when hitting the lock button on the remote. If there is one and it's not the lt blue lock wire then you could tie your activation trigger there. Test for negative on each wire while pressing the lock each time.

I hooked the factory disarm wire to the ORANGE / black wire. Here's what I figured out from last night. The ORANGE / black wire is the factory disarm wire and when the alarm is going off, I gave it a negative pulse and the alarm went off and the car was still on. Then, I checked the factory disarm wire coming from the RS module and it does give a negative pulse when the RS is activated. So in theory this would work fine, but here is what is happening in reality-the negative pulse from the RS is giving a negative pulse too soon, by the time the car actually starts, the negative has come and gone resulting in the factory alarm going off. I will go out and try to find the wire that gives a negative pulse when I press the lock on the key fob, I checked before but I'll check again. Yea, the lt. blue wire only gives a negative pulse when the lock inside the car is pressed-the same goes for the white wire when the unlock in the car is pressed. I'm going to try some thingd now and see what I get. Thanks for the pictures! They would have really come in handy a couple days ago when I was really clueless. Let me know if you have heard about that negative pulse problem before. Thanks!

Also, the ORANGE / black wire appears to be cut-is this my problem, it has to be cut?

mhissticobra wrote:

Also, the ORANGE / black wire appears to be cut-is this my problem, it has to be cut?

The wire should not be cut. Maybe they had a problem in the past and cut it for some reason. If its cut try to connect to the side that is not going into the door but rather the side that is going towards the interior so that the negative pulse will get to the right place.

As for the pictures I only came acrossed them when I went to pull up a wiring diagram from https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagrams/diagrams.htm to help troubleshoot the problems your having.

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Steve G

No, no-in the picture you gave me the wire is cut. I have been trying stuff all morning and with no solution, the alarm just keeps going off, the is turning stupid, it shouldn't take 3 days to install one of these!

Yeah, I looked at what your saying now. I don't think it's cut it's just seperated from the other wires and turns back towards the loom of wires but the angle hides it so it appears cut. Regardless you would not want to cut the factory disarm wire. You only need to strip back the insulation and run your wire through the center and wrap the strands around it well then black tape it.

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Steve G

I did that a long time ago and it still goes off- this is why I am pulling my hair out-I have it hooked up directly how the manual says and it doesn't work, the alarm will forever go off! I have tried to call DEI but since I am not an authorized dealer they can't speak to me about it which I think is horseshhh because they sell a product and can't help you out unless your a part of them!! I took it to a DEI shop and he guy behind the counter shook his his head and didn't know but he told me to let him know if I can't figure it out. I have on this thing for 3 days now and I think now I am going to attempt to build a bomb so I can just blow my car up so I can move on with my life.

For real though-any ideas anyone?

Try sitting in the vehicle and arming the alarm. Wait a few minutes then put the key in and see if it sets the alarm off. If not turn the key to ignition to see if that sets the alarm off. If not start it. I just want to know what step exactly is setting off the alarm.

If it ends up being an ignition sense that sets it off you might be able to locate the igntion input wire going into the alarm and cut that wire. Same goes if it were a keysense that sets it off, that wire could be cut.

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Steve G

OK, I got in and armed it, waited a few seconds and put the key in-got nothing, so I turned the key, not starting it, into the run position and the alarm went off. Another thing I noticed is that when I remote start my car, my radio doesn't turn on and the windows don't work-is this some kind of safety feature or is something incorrect here?

Ok, so now we know that the alarm is set off by ignition sense. If you test the wires going into the alarm which I think would be in the keyless module with the 32 pins keep turning the key off and then to on. Test a wire turn it to on to see if you can locate a wire that tells the module when it senses the ignition being turned on. Go through each wire in that plug and hopefully you will find one. I've had the issue in the past on a subaru where wehn I added a remote start to factory keyless...the remote was disabled Once the Ignition was turned on. I snipped the ignition sense wire and was able to use the remote when running. Of course in your case what we want to happen is when the remote start unit turns on the ignition for starting that the alarm will never see that and hopefully not trigger yet remain armed.

By the way...you never did say whether your remote still functioned when the vehicle was running.

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Steve G

Ok I was looking at the manual and I just thought of a new idea. I'm not sure if it will work but in theory it seems right. Instead of sending the disarm wire a pulse that doesn't seem to be timing right. Let's try connecting the BLUE STATUS OUTPUT from the 4 pin satellite harness to the disarm wire. The status wire comes on and stays on during the entire run cycle and hopefully a split second before the Ignition turns on. I'm hoping this will disarm the alarm and keep it disarmed through the whole run-time. Give this idea a try and let me know what the results are.

https://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/valet/N561T_07-05.pdf

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Steve G

Found something else in the manual. The programming step 20 FACTORY ALARM DISARM PULSES—SINGLE, DOUBLE: Selectable for a single or double-pulse for the vehicle’s factory alarm disarm input requirements.

Using the existing set-up with the factory disarm wire output of the alarm, this may help resolve the timing issue if it sends out a second pulse before start. This may or may not work so you'll have to experiment. You will need to go into programming to change the setting though.

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Steve G

OK-I tried using the blue status light and it does give a constant ground when activated but it didn't work, the alarm still went off. The remote does still work while the car is running. Also, that downloaded manual is different than mine, mine only gives 14 different programming modes, not 21, and when I try to get to the 20th mode, it will not let me. I do have the Valet 561t but they had to have changed the manual sometime and either mine or that one is not accurate. I know that I have the right wires and everyhting but the pulse is just too soon. I can manually pulse it and time it right and the alarm never goes off and works fine, but the would kind of kill the whole reason of getting a RS. Any more thoughts? Keep them coming because I'll try anything.

I didn't mean blue status light, I meant blue status wire.

Yeah did you try looking for the Ignition sense wire I discussed before at the alarm module?

I take it the wire would be 0V until I put the ignition into the run position , then it would show 12V? Just want to make sure I'm looking for the right wire.

OK, I found it and cut it. The car started with no alarm but it dies after about 3 seconds.

The only other thing I can think of is maybe trying the diesel start delay. I think it has to be 15 or 30 seconds after it gets the remote start command signal. Check the programming features. But reconnect the cut igition sense wire and see if the disarm command timing issue is resolved using it like that. It will suck to have to always wait the extra 15-30 seconds. But hey if it works, waiting a few extra seconds isnt that bad.

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Steve G

Your vehicle isn't listed in these instructions but you could always try it. This would disable the factory security though. https://directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1051.pdf

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Steve G

If I use the diesel start delay, does that mean that the car will start 15-30 seconds after I press the button or will the alarm go off for 15-30 seconds before it turns off? I would really rather not disable my alarm completely, I know it's a possibility but it's one thing I didn't want to do.

I don't know what it will do that's why i said to try it out.

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Steve G

I have decided to throw in the towel. What I figured I can do is just press the unlock button 3 times, then after it starts, I will press my lock button once and the doors all lock. Ohh well, just one more button to press every time. No big deal I guess. I am just fed up with driving around with wires sticking everywhere, dash torn apart, and just tired of messing with it. I went back to the one DEI installer and asked him if he had come up with any more ideas, he just said "it won't work" So, I really have no other choice but to disable the alarm completely and I won't do that. But I do appreciate all the help you have given me iskidoo, I really do-you had ideas that I would have never known to try. But unfortunately it wasn't meant to be. Thanks again.

Well that's seems like a good way to do it. Or if you'd rather not have to lock after you start it, maybe you can try this. You said before your manual is different so I'm not certain whether your unit has this feature or not. Look and see if it has H2/5 BLUE/WHITE (-) 200 mA 2ND STATUS/REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT and that it does this...wire can also be used to activate the defogger trigger (latched/pulsed) 10-seconds after the remote start engages. (See the Feature Descriptions section in this guide for details about programming this output.)

I'm assuming that your saying that you are able to press lock once remote started without the alarm arming.
If it does try hooking that output to your negative lock circuit. Set it for latched after 10 seconds. In theory, your 3 unlock presses will disarm the alarm then start and 10 seconds later it will re-lock when the REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT enables.

The only thing that concerns me is whether the locks will still be trying to trigger if the negative (latched) output is continuos through out the run cycle. So before doing any of it test the lock circuit with nothing running so you can hear. Apply the negative to it and leave it.

Does the lock actuator sound like it quickly engages and then disengages the locks or does it sound like they are stuck on?

The safest bet would be to use a relay with a cap and resistor to make a Constant to Momentary Output. This would take the defogger constant (latched) output and turn it into one quick pulse which is all we would need.
https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#ctm

posted_image

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Steve G