Nissan Altima 05 OEM alarm removal probs

My friend brought home one of those remote start, two-way alarms recently and　after taking a look at his 05 altima today, i have come to the conclusion that the stock alarm is built into his BCM (Body Control Module, which controls everything from lights to door locks, power windows, wipers and whatnot... as well as the dome lights. The question is, can I remove the functionality of the stock alarm without harming the BCM? They seem pretty integrated, with the alarm antenna even mounted in the case.

Can someone who has done this mod possibly post a solution up? I've got most of the bottom dashboard stripped already and would love to be able to fix things up soon. I want the OEM alarm not to function at all.

Or if i got the alarm integration thing wrong, please point me in the right direction.

Thanks in advance.

no you can not turn the original alarm off.

I don't understand why you would want to not use the oem alarm.

don't arm the original alarm...and if you have to , no big deal.......just make it disarm before start, if my memory serves me right.  Try this, sit in the car , lock the doors with the original remote, you should see a red light somewhere(most likley on the dash) once it is armed...start the car and if the alarm does not sound off....great. No need to dis arm the system upon start...if so, use the disarm wire from the unit. If there is no disarm wire from the unit...go check in programming to have the doorlocks unlock before start and relock after start.

and you need the extra part

This Vehicle Is Equipped With A Transponder Type Engine Immobilizer Theft System

Nissan

Altima

2002-2005

Remote Starter  Wiring Colors and Notes
Function		Vehicle  Color	Location
Start:		BLACK/ RED & BLACK / YELLOW	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS **
Ignition  #1:		BLACK/ RED	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS*
Ignition #2:		RED	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition  #3:		N/A
Accessory:		WHITE/ BLUE	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Brake  Light:		RED / GREEN	AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL
Tach  Signal:
Parking Lights:		RED / BLUE (+)	DRIVER'S KICK PANEL
Headlights:		BLUE & RED / YELLOW (+)	AT MODULE BEHIND PASSENGER HEADLIGHT
Diesel  Glow Plug:		N/A
Clutch  Bypass Wire:
Notes:		* This Vehicle Is Equipped With A Transponder Type Engine Immobilizer Theft System. Use Universal Alarm Bypass Module part # 2x402 where X can be any number. See Note #144 ** This Vehicle Is Equipped With Two Start Wires. Both Must Be Powered In Order For Vehicle To Start When Engine Is Cold. See Note #235 *** Test With A Meter While Turning A Key In The Driver's Door Lock Cylinder.

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Nissan

Altima

2002-2005

Alarm and Keyless  Entry Wiring Colors and Notes
Function		Vehicle  Color	Location
Constant  +12 Volts:		GREEN	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
OEM Alarm Disarm:		WHITE/ BLUE (-)	AT KEY SWITCH INSIDE OF DRIVER'S DOOR ***
Dome  Lights/Superv:		COMES ON WITH UNLOCK	SEE NOTE****
OEM Horn:		GREEN / WHITE (-)	STEERING COLUMN HARNESS
Power  Lock:		PINK (-)	PIN # AT BCM NEAR FUSE BOX
Power  Unlock:		BROWN (-)	PIN # AT BCM NEAR FUSE BOX *****
Trunk  Release:		RED / BLACK OR BLUE/RED (-)	PIN # AT BCM NEAR FUSE BOX
Alarm  Input Wire:		COMES ON WITH UNLOCK	SEE NOTE****
Notes:		**** Multiple Trigger Wires. Use Lt. Blue (-) For Driver's Door, Pink/Blue (-) For Passenger Front Door, RED / Black (-) For Both Rear Doors. All Wires Are Found At The BCM Located To The Right Of The Fuse Box. ***** Unlock Requires Double Pulse. See Note #231. Also See Note #201 Negative Trigger Door Locks.

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Testing is the key

wire the factory arm wire off the remote start like this pink/blue (negitive trigger), located in the drivers door at door module pin 4 (Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
This wire will also lock the doors. so dont worry about wiring up the lock wires)

wire unlock wires like this jumper the unlock wire and factory disarm wire off the brain together and then hook them to the WHITE/ blue (negitive trigger) wire in door at drivers door module pin 5, Meter this wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.
Single pulse on this wire will disarm the factory alarm, and double pulse will unlock the doors. (turn double pulse unlock on in the programing menu of remote start brain.

hope this helps.....this will keep the factory alarm working with no problems....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

They way i see it u NEVER wanna remove factory alarms they are a pain in the butt.... u always wanna bypass it

The reason why my friend would rather not use the OEM alarm is simple : he has a two-way LCD alarm sitting around with remote start & turbo timer.

Its only real failing is being incompatible with picky cars like his altima and various others (only single-pulse output). I've ordered a DEI 556U and a 472T to fix the remote start and single pulse issues already, though.

BTW, can anyone tell me where I can find a hot wire on car start? In other words, +12v when the car is running. Alarm needs it to know when to quit cranking (i think.)

BTW, thanks guys for the help so far. I actually checked ou the note #231, someone had it posted somewhere and it was a circut for double pulsing. Too bad i already got the 472Ts ordered. Incidentally, I have a couple extra available. If anyone wants one, feel free to PM me. Just S&H and a nominal fee.

accord78 : not really true in the case of older cars especially in countries outside of the united states. My '92 accord then had a Cobra (australian) alarm installed which was quite a good alarm for a stock system then - it had a ultrasonic volumetric sensor & shock sensor and a pretty solid trigger system.

u should wire to the tach wire of the car.....uy get a cleaner signal than using the 12v voltage sense.....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

The Altima is not a "picky" car---it's just a plain ol' little Nissan.

Many of them do not have factory security----if the red light atop the dash comes on steady as you lock the doors with the remote, that is the alarm arming.

As others here have said, why would you throw away the alarm your friend paid extra to get? Two alarms are better than one. Just arm and disarm the factory alarm with the aftermarket remote.

The alarm will disarm all by itself upon remote start; the factory disarm wire is not needed.

See if that Altima has any kind of menu where you can change the settings of the car. If you set it so that the factory remote unlocks all the doors at once (instead of driver's first), your aftermarket unit will also unlock all the doors with a single pulse.

Thanks guys for helping out. I've got the alarm tested out and the only issues i have are :

1) Door unlocking requires double pulse which my alarm does not supply (fixed with the purchase of DEI 452T double pulse generator)

2) 3 seperate wires for each door trigger (solved with a couple of diodes wired in)

2) this car has autolight IE the driving lights come on for a short period of time after arm/disarming (not sure which one). I understand some sort of circut is needed to make sure the lights go off after disarming... involving a relay and i'm not sure what else. Something about a "pulse after" relay setup.


If somebody could aid me on #3, I would be very much grateful.

you mean knocking the lights off if you stop the car by remote and not opening the car door?

connect the DISARM WIRE from the starter to the driver door pinswitch. If the shoot is neg(most probably will be) connect the wire directly to the pinswitch

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Testing is the key

slicksam wrote:

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you mean knocking the lights off if you stop the car by remote and not opening the car door?

connect the DISARM WIRE from the starter to the driver door pinswitch. If the shoot is neg(most probably will be) connect the wire directly to the pinswitch

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I had the same problem with my 05 Maxima and to expand on this... cut the divers door trigger AFTER the input trigger for the alarm place a diode and wire in the output for rearm after shutdown.   This way the pulse rearm aftershut down will not trigger the alarm.

To shut off the daytime, or auto lights....pulse the green and yellow wire(-) at the SECU Its across from a RED / white, and a WHITE/ red  Use your pulse after to trigger this wire

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Appreciate the replies. I have a astrostart installation sheet for the '04 maxima, which i am recalling from memory requires a 'pulse after' relay connected to a GREEN/ (yellow or silver) wire.

deepinit, i do not really get what you are trying to say. Could you elaborate/simplify?

KarTuneMan, i'll check out the wires and let you know if it's successful. not sure if it's the "auto" lights i need to shut off though.

--Typically, when you drive around in the dark with the autolamps on, then park the car and get out, the lights shut themselves off after a short time.

--If the car is shut off and the door is NOT opened, the lights never go out, draining the battery.

--If your remote starter times out, or you start it with the remote, and then shut it back off with the remote, the same problem will result.

--Even if the installer does not bother doing anything about this, only about 1% of customers come back, in my experience.

--Regardless, if you connect a "pulse-after-shutdown" output from your remote starter, to the driver's-front doorpin wire of the car, the autolamps will shut off after a period of time as they normally would.

--On Viper product, the wire that pulses after shutdown is called "factory re-arm", I believe.
No relay or diode should be necessary; just a straight connection is fine.

Okay guys, i've sorted out the auto light as well as every other aspect of the alarm except for two:

1) For the love of me, I cannot figure out how in the world to run the siren from the engine bay into the car. It seems like every entry grommet for wires is already epoxy sealed, and the main wire harness is not accessable. Any tips on how to get this done besides drilling?

2) Is there another place I can locate a +12v source on engine start besides the fuel injectors/coils (tach sense)? Perhaps a source in the car - as above, I am finding it a problem to run wires in from the engine bay without drilling. Even so, I am having a touch time locating the wires without removing the engine cover.

Thanks!