2005 Monte Carlo and Hornet 564T

Hey guys, I'm a newbie at R/S and alarms, but I've been around cars for years. This has me stumped. I installed a (new) DEI Hornet 456T in a '05 Monte Carlo. I used a 456U for the door locks, and a 555L for the Passlock II bypass. The full alarm trigger icon on the remote never turns off. The doors lock and unlock OK. If I send START from remote, car acts like it is going through the crank cycle, but starter never engages. Have checked voltage to starter side of remote relay, there's 12V there, but starter does not crank. I have attempted to "learn" the 555L until I'm blue in the face, to no avail. Car will start with the key, but no remote start. I've unplugged the shock sensor, cut the door triggers, tried to get to as "bare" as possible, the car won't start by remote, and the alarm icon on the LCD remote never shuts off. My dealer tells me the 555L is good, he's never seen one fail. The diagnostics (using the valet switch and LED) report ignition (Zone 5). ANY suggestions would most definitely be appreciated.

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

Sorry - got interrupted by phone while posting. I really IS a 564T 8-)

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

when u remote start the car does the igntion and accessory power....also where did u get the tach.

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

On remote start, ignition (pink 12ga from rs relay) during crank, accessory before crank, no accessory during crank (orange 12ga from rs relay). Tries to crank three times, then fails 8-(. I picked up the tach from the ignition coil, white wire (shows 2V AC at idle, more when I rev the engine).

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

did u power the second igntion wire and second accessory?  u must use relays on each.....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

I powered the second ignition wire with the pink\white wire from the remote relay, which is shown to be second ignition in the diagram in the instruction manual. It's a 12ga wire, right from the rs satellite - should I use a relay also? I didn't power the second accessory wire. Was told (by dealer) it was only needed for radio...?

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

if the remote start is eqipped with a second igntion wire then dont worry about relay isolating that one.....on this car u must power the second accessory wire or it will not crank......and u must use a relay to power it.....dont just jumper the accessory wire over to the second accessory wire.....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

OK, I'll do that tomorrow (I hope). BTW, I feel the need to explain a little. I live fairly remote, and can't afford to be without my vehicle long enough for an installer to do it. My dealer (a friend) is semi-retired, and travels a lot. When he's gone (like now), his son, who is a first class DICK, runs the shop. His stock answer to my questions is "Bring it in, I'll look at it when I get time." The dealer and I went over all the installation instructions when I bought the kit, and he was confident I could do the job. It's installed, but he gave me some wrong info. Even the pros can make mistakes. Anyway, I very much appreciate the assist. I'll try the second accy wire ASAP, and post the results here. Thanks again for the help.

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

a no crank situation usually arises from a passlock error on those cars.

on the 555L you hooked nothing to the purple and BLACK/ white wires correct?

I've never had to hook up the brown wire.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

Don't bother powering the brown wire; it is unneccessary.

Turn the ignition on with the key, and notice how the Security light behaves---it should come on steady, and I think then it stays on......if you start the engine, it goes out.

Now, try the remote start---what's the security light doing? If it's flashing, something's not right with your 555L---if the security light behaves normally, you can probably rule out the 555L, and look elsewhere.

Also: Put your tester to the wires right at the brain of the remote starter, and test the constant/starter/ignition1&2/accessory wires---verify you didn't get any of them mixed up. Again, verify constant and ignition at the 555L brain.

Direct techs say (for accessory 2) This wire must be powered as an accessory wire. If powered as a second ignition, the car will not crank.

so that is a pretty good chance that it need to be powered.

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

OK, here goes...Installed relay for brown accy 2, powering coil off of orange accy 1 from remote start relay. Car starts with key - security light comes on (red battery), then goes out. seat belt warning chimes (5 times), car stays running. Tried remote start, verified voltage thru relay (power for 2nd accy while remote starting from 12v constant thru relay - accy 2 only has power when accy 1 does). Get power to purple out to starter - no start. Checked connection at 555L, all looks ok - should the blue wire in the 555L have 12v on it? It does get a (-) pulse during the remote start, but shows 12v + all the time otherwise. Anyway, the security light comes on, goes off while trying to crank, then back on. Remote will try three times, then fail. I'm about to just yank it all out, and tell my old lady the car can't be remote started 8-(

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

Going from bad to worse...after unplugging the 555, checking all the connections, etc., then trying the remote start again, car enters "short tamper mode." Won't start, even with key, for 10 minutes. After starting with key, waiting several minutes, it will start with key every time, until I try remote start. Since the remote tries to crank 3 times, car goes into short tamper again, have to wait 10 minutes, then will start with key. I'm about to give up, go rent a car while a real pro installs this system. 8-((

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

Oops...I guess that's "long tamper mode." It doesn't even bother with short tamper mode. 8-( Well, the car still is driveable, the theft alarm works, and I haven't fried any wires yet. 2 out of 3 ain't bad...

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

dont give up.....try this....turn the key to the run postion but dont crank......witht the key in the run postion try to remote start the car.....if it runs and the security light goes out.....then u have a bypass problem.....tell me all connections that u have hooked up on the bypass mod...colors and all "in the car and from the bypass"

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

jrferrell wrote:

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OK, here goes...Installed relay for brown accy 2, powering coil off of orange accy 1 from remote start relay. Car starts with key - security light comes on (red battery), then goes out. seat belt warning chimes (5 times), car stays running. Tried remote start, verified voltage thru relay (power for 2nd accy while remote starting from 12v constant thru relay - accy 2 only has power when accy 1 does). Get power to purple out to starter - no start. Checked connection at 555L, all looks ok - should the blue wire in the 555L have 12v on it? It does get a (-) pulse during the remote start, but shows 12v + all the time otherwise. Anyway, the security light comes on, goes off while trying to crank, then back on. Remote will try three times, then fail. I'm about to just yank it all out, and tell my old lady the car can't be remote started 8-(

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OK, the blue wire fromt eh 555L needs ground the whole time the remote starter is active, from a status output from the alarm. Not a pulse during remote start, but ground while running.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

OK, here goes:
Main wiring harness of the alarm module:
RED\WHITE - not connected (200ma channel 2 validity output)
RED - ran a new 12v (fused) from battery wire post of fuse box under hood
BROWN - to red\black siren (+)
BLACK - to ground (bolt under dash used by factory for ground)
VIOLET - not connected ((+) door trigger input)
BLUE - not connected (trunk trigger input)
GREEN - to blue driver's door (-)trigger and blue\white pass. door (-)trigger diode isolated from each other, and from BCM
BLACK\WHITE - not connected ((-)200ma domelight output)
WHITE\BLUE - not connected ((-) activation input)
WHITE - not connected ((+\-) parking light output)
ORANGE - not connected (ground when armed)

5-pin harness:
BLACK\WHITE - to ground thru toggle switch (neutral safety input)
VIOLET\WHITE - to white wire in connector at coil (2v AC at idle) confirmed tach.
BROWN - to white wire at brake switch ((+12v when brake applied)
GRAY - not connected (hoodpin shutdown)
BLUE\WHITE - to 555L status input

6-pin harness:
None connected (car does not have factory alarm)

3-pin harness from 556u (Have programmed lock\unlock thru 556u to factory single-wire lock\unlock, and door locks work correctly)

Shock sensor is unplugged (to eliminate possible alarms for now)

Remote start relay wiring:
Ribbon harness from alarm unit plugged in.
Heavy-gauge wiring harness:
PURPLE - to starter side of YELLOW starter wire from ignition switch.
GREEN - to key side of YELLOW starter wire from ignition switch.
RED - to new 12v (fused) from (+)battery wire post of fuse box under hood
ORANGE - to ORANGE accessory wire from ignition switch
PINK\WHITE - to DARK GREEN ignition 2 wire from ignition switch
RED\WHITE - this wire loops from red 12v to another terminal connection - I cut the loop and used this wire for 12v+ to relay for BROWN accessory 2 wire from ignition switch. I tapped into the ORANGE accessory 1 wire to power the coil in the relay - when orange wire is powered, the BROWN accy 2 wire is powered thru the relay by the 12v from the RED\WHITE wire. When the relay is not powered (normal start) the BROWN accy 2 wire is powered by the ignition switch thru normally closed relay contacts. I tested the relay connections with my multimeter to be sure this is correct.
PINK - to PINK ignition 1 from ignition switch.
RED - to the same 12v (fused) from (+)battery wire post of fuse box under hood as the other RED wire.

Accessory harness of remote relay:
BLUE - not connected ( - status output)
ORANGE - not connected ( -200ma 2nd accessory output)
VIOLET - not connected ( -200ma starter output)
PINK - not connected ( -200ma 3rd ignition output)

555L wiring:
Cut yellow passlock wire from ignition switch (in 3-wire taped harness)
YELLOW - to YELLOW passlock wire - switch side
BLACK\YELLOW - to YELLOW passlock wire - BCM side
BLACK - tapped into BLACK passlock wire
BLUE - to BLUE\WHITE (-)status output from main 564T module
PINK - to PINK ignition 1 in factory harness

After checking and re-checking all my connections, I changed the BLUE input to the 555L from the R\S relay status output to the main 564T status output. The car still won't start with remote, but no longer goes into tamper mode. If I try to remote start, it will try three times, then fail, but I can immediately start the car with the key. I'm now convinced the problem is NOT the 555L, but don't know where to go from here. AND, the alarm icon on the remote still stays on all the time. As far as I know, there is no factory anti-theft device on the car, except for Passlock II. I had a 2000 MC, that , if I locked the doors with the driver's door open, then closed the door, would flash the lights and honk the horn if I opened a door by reaching in through an open window and unlocking with the manual lock\unlock rocker switch (not the electric lock). This car does not do that. I'm really about ready to pull my few remaining hairs out! I really do appreciate all the input, it's caused me to really check my work, but I'm still stumped. If I could figure this one out, maybe I could help someone else to avoid a trap like this one. Thanks for all the help, I'll keep trying, and let you know if I get it.


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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

did u turn the key to the run postion with the key and...then try to remote start.....and see if it cranks.....if it does then u have a bypass problem.....

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Where theres is a wire there's a way.

Sorry, forgot to mention that. Yes, I did try that, and the car still won't remote start. I'm pretty much convinced after all the above the problem isn't the bypass, just can't put a finger on the real gremlin. Do you know how, exactly, the factory alarm is supposed to work? Mine dowsn't act like my 2000 did (horn and light flash), but could it be I NEED to "disarm" the factory alarm?. There are several "lt. green" wires in the "gray 16-pin plug at the BCM", and I'm not sure which is "pin B3." How would I test for it? I don't want to just start hooking stuff up to anything that LOOKS right and end up burning something up, or worse. I've heard some horror stories about deploying air bags, etc. if you screw up.

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...

FIXED! I checked all the connections, didn't check the voltages...(duh!). For some reason, no power to the second ignition wire. Jumpered it to the first ignition wire. Voila! Car starts and runs great! Thanks for all the advice, you guys are great!

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I wasn't born in Texas, but I got here as fast as I could...