installing trc zr-25 in ’82 olds cutlass
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=65734
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 7:08 PM
Topic: installing trc zr-25 in ’82 olds cutlass
Posted By: cache.return
Subject: installing trc zr-25 in ’82 olds cutlass
Date Posted: November 06, 2005 at 8:17 PM
i am completely lost...
i have a 1982 oldsmobile cutlass supreme (v6 - 3.8 liter) and am trying to install a trc zr-25 remote starter with keyless entry (https://www.trc12volt.com/main-security.html). i have heard from other people who have installed their own remote starting units that wiring diagrams are available specifically for these installs. i have the chilton's manual for my car, but it is only confusing me more.
is anything more specific, or perhaps written in smaller, more idiot-friendly words available? any help would be much appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: cnj101
Date Posted: November 06, 2005 at 8:27 PM
good lluck with that one. All my wiring references only go back to 1988. Sorry I couldn't help. I tried..
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: November 06, 2005 at 10:13 PM
this wiring schematic is from a 1981 olds cutlass supreme
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: November 06, 2005 at 10:14 PM
this wiring schematic is from a 1981 olds cutlass supreme, this will give you an idea where the wires are, but they might be a different color
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 12:57 AM
wow... thanks a lot.
this is me being a real pain in the ass:
where are the ignition module and ignition harness?
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 12:59 AM
Here is the more interesting question.....
Is the car fuel injected?
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 1:12 AM
indeed it is not.
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 1:26 AM
another question:
"pin 6: +12v ignition input. this wire must connect to a main ignition wire at the ignition harness. this wire must show +12v when the ignition is on and while cranking the starter. the voltage must not drop when the car is starting."
does this mean the wire needs to show +12 when the key is turned to 'radio on - engine off' position, when the starter is cranking, and not when the key is out?
what about when the engine is running?
i would just assume that this is the pink wire indicated above, but the instructions say to connect to "ignition 1 output (negative) to activate external relay," which i have noted as possibly being a pink wire also, and that is confusing my situation somewhat.
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 2:03 AM
I'll start with saying that putting a remote starter into a non fuel injected car isn;'t a good idea. Most carburated cars tend to not start well when it is cold out (compared to a fuel injected vehicle), even when immaculately tuned and maintained......
If the Questioned wire requires ignition, then the wire you need will show 12V when the key is turned to on/run/crank. It won't show voltage in the key back/radio position. On older GM's, it is pink in the ignition harness coming from the key, and will be found along the lower part of the column coming off of the ignition switch. Here you will also find the following: Purple starter, orange accessory(heater), brown accessory (radio, wipers, maybe windows, amybe not windows), and a couple red 12V all the time. Tach is white at the distributor or coil, parklights are brown at the switch, and brake is white at the brake switch at the pedal.
HTH
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 9:28 AM
i have a plan for starting the car when it's cold, unless there's any safety concern with remote starting a carburated car (like... if the worst thing that can happen is that it wont work) then i will go ahead with the install.
your colors seem to agree with my observations. if the vehicle doesnt have a tach in the dash, is there still a tach wire?
the manual seems to require a +12 ignition input, and a separate negative ignition output coming from the remote starter's external relay block (as indicated in previous 'pink wire vs pink wire' post).
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 9:33 AM
sorry, to clarify:
the relay block has a connection for the negative ignition output, and there is a connection on the main module for a +12 ignition input (assumed to be the pink wire on steering column).
what is the significance then, of this negative connection, and how do i find it?
sorry for not being clear, i thought i could edit my posts.
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 9:41 AM
The Negative outputwould be used to drive an additional relay or 2 depending on wheter or not your particular vehicle requires more ignitions than the unit can provide. (you only have one ignition on this thing...you do not need this wire)
As far as an ignition input.... connect it to ignition. Is this an alarm as well.
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 6:38 PM
it is not an alarm. should i connect the wire that wants the "+12 ignition input" to the same pink wire on the steering column that i connected the ignition relay to, then?
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 6:52 PM
Yes
Gus
-------------
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 7:16 PM
thanks for all the help, i almost feel like i owe this website money.
the module needs +12 in one place and the relay module needs it in two. the only sources of constant +12 i can find under the dash will drop to 8-10 volts when the starter is cranking.
do any or all three of these inputs need power that doesnt drop? if so, where can i find it?
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 7:49 PM
The 2 reds at the key harness drop that far under crank???
Wow
Gus
-------------
Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 7:52 PM
gus1]T wrote:
e 2 reds at the key harness drop that far under crank???
Wow
Gus
yah that doesn't seem right
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 7:57 PM
no, i couldn't get up there to test those two, i was testing at the fuse box.
is that to say that i should be using the ones on the steering column, and that they shouldn't drop?
on another note, what wire connectors should i be using? i've been using tap-ins but some guy was looking at me funny. is there a problem with them i don't know about?
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 8:00 PM
when doing alarms or remote starts you should be using solder
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 8:07 PM
shhh.
well, what is the difference at this point? should i be ripping things out and reconnecting with solder, or will it work anyway?
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: November 07, 2005 at 8:16 PM
it will work, but you should always use solder when doing alarm and remote starters, that is all I am saying
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 10, 2005 at 7:26 PM
thanks for all the help. i blew a fuseable link, but i got it working. thing is, it wont stop working. if i remote start it, the engine stays running no matter what. the only way i can shut it off is to pop the hood.
matters of secondary concern: the keyless entry and quck stop features don't work.
interesting...
Posted By: 05gt
Date Posted: November 10, 2005 at 7:44 PM
you should be able to turn of the remote start with the remote for starters, plus did you hook up the brake switch wire from the alarm brain
Posted By: cache.return
Date Posted: November 11, 2005 at 12:11 AM
i should be able to, but i can't.
i did hook up the brake switch, it seems to test okay with the multimeter, but i am going to check that tomorrow. i am more concerned with the features on the remote working properly, however.
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