Window module and pulse timer 528t
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=66614
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 8:56 AM
Topic: Window module and pulse timer 528t
Posted By: wester97
Subject: Window module and pulse timer 528t
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 5:39 PM
I've been searching the forums for the answer to this, but was unable to find it. This is probably one of the easiest uses of these parts, but I want to make sure I understand everything before I operate. I am going to trigger the pulse timer off of the factory keyless entry system (the wire which corresponds to the lock/arm function) The pulse timer will send a signal to the widow module to roll the windows up. The only part I am really confused on is the pulse timer wire configs.
Which wires do i connect to the window module. I know how to use the +/- and trigger but here are the others:
Orange 87A (normally closed)
Brown 87B (normally open)
Yellow 30 Common My assumption is that i will use the orange, but what does the common do? Thanks in advance for your help!!!
Replies:
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 6:38 PM
First you'll need to find a wire in the car that either goes to ground momentarily when you lock the doors, or goes to +12volts. Then, the BLACK/ white wire from the 528t will goes to that wire. The red off the 528t goes to constant +12volts. Black and Brown both go to ground. Finally Yellow gets hooked up to that tiny orange wire off the window controller. As for the blue loop, if the wire in the car that switches goes to ground then leave it alone. If it goes to +12volts then cut it and isolate the ends. The orange wire on the 52t you will not need.
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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 6:42 PM
You rock - I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 6:50 PM
oh, and also - what is the easiest way to use a multimeter to test all of these wires? Do i have to find a point of termination and test there? or is there an easier way
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 8:18 PM
Whats the make/model/year of the car? You can typically strip back the wire at a point its easy to test. If its not the right wire just wrap some electrial tape around where you broke the insulation and move on. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 9:13 PM
it is a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder.
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 19, 2005 at 9:36 PM
I am supposed to use the Brown (the normally closed). Does this mean that it should go to activate a circuit that is normally closed? I'm kinda confused.
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 1:10 AM
is this true with this?: When the coil of the relay is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the normally open terminal (87) have continuity.
Posted By: rsudbay
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 10:45 AM
hey man, it sounds like you are mostly having relay problems, have you looked at the relay page on this web site. it will help a hell of a lot. https://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp good luck ------------- hey, everyone has got to start somewhere. but ill learn
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 12:42 PM
wester97 wrote:
is this true with this?:
When the coil of the relay is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the normally open terminal (87) have continuity.
Yes this is true for the 528T. It is basically a standard relay but with an adjustable timer on it. It functions the same as what you described. It holds the connection open or closed for 1-90 seconds. The common you asked about is a wire that is common to both the open and closed wire. You always hook one side of the wire your connecting or disconnecting to it. The other side of the cut wire goes to either the normally open or normally closed wire. If you want to supply the yellow window module input trigger wire with a ground for a period of time. You hook the common to ground and the yellow wire to the normally open wire. This way when the timer is triggered by the lock the adjustable timer triggers the window module wire for the amount of time it needs to roll up all the windows and then disengages the trigger wire after the timer elapses. ------------- Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 12:59 PM
Out of curiousity, why do you need the timer? If this is a roll-up situation, most roll-up units only need the negative pulse to start the roll-up sequence. They usually will roll up in order even if there is no constant ground input on the trigger wire.
You should wire a relay that only allows the window rollups to work when the Ignition is off. You don't want to be driving down the road and have a child hit the lock button on the door and have the windows start rolling up on them. Never know where there arms may be.
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Steve G
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 1:08 PM
It will receive the pulse from the door lock coming from my keyless entry, a different wire than the lock switch. I was under the impression that it needed a pulse timer from this article: https://caraudiomag.com/technical/0508cae_metro/ The window module has 12+ and ground - does it still need to be given ground from the timer?
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 1:17 PM
It depends on the module. My rollup module takes a pulse to activate. Once it recieves the pulse it does all the work from there. It starts rolling up window 1, when it hits the top window 2 starts rolling up...so on & so on until all four are rolled up.
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Steve G
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 4:10 PM
What module do you have? Mine is made by Galaxy - module ACCWR - 8 Do they all roll up the windows sequentially? I wanted them to roll up all at once. Also, is there anyway to make the horn honk once they are all up? That would be cool
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 10:01 PM
Anyone know the answer? Do I even need the pulse timer?
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 20, 2005 at 10:49 PM
Does you manual look like this one?
https://scytek.net/pdf/WindowRollup.pdf
♦ Quick-connect & disconnect plug
♦ Roll-up and Down 2 windows
♦ Roll-up 4 windows
♦ Fits most cars with existing power windows
♦ Use high quality relays for control module
♦ The System allows (-). Pulse or Constant Trigger
♦ Auto-sense to stop window roll-up when closed
♦ Automatic temperature Control Ventilation
♦ Remote Manual Venting
♦ The safety controls. During Window Roll-up it will
Automatically Stop the Window if anything impede the
Motion.
Just test it and see. ------------- Steve G
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 12:51 PM
actually, that doesnt look like mine. I looked at that manual as well online. All mine says is 500mA activation. Anyone know if i need the pulse timer or not? ------------- CoppellStereo
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 2:22 PM
Why do you keep asking that? TEST IT
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Steve G
Posted By: wester97
Date Posted: November 21, 2005 at 2:52 PM
This is my first project like this. Just wanting to make sure i do it right. I'll try it and let you know
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CoppellStereo
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: November 23, 2005 at 12:23 AM
It's always a good idea to bench test it before installing anything, and especially if it's something you've never done before.
Never much fun undoing all your careful work dressing the wires and mounting everything, only to find you had the wrong idea about how it works, or the thing's defective.
Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 7:10 PM
We worked with this module and timer today, connected it as mentioned above, and here are the problems we ran into Without actually connecting to the window we are unsure how to test that the window module is working - it should send out +12 to the window motor to roll it up correct? Measuring voltage of the wire that goes from the timer to the window module showed that there is a constant current that breaks when the timer is activated. So then we cut the blue wire loop on the timer, nothing changed - there was still a constant current from the activation wire. Could we be connecting it incorrectly?: (connected as mentioned in the 2nd post:) | First you'll need to find a wire in the car that either goes to ground momentarily when you lock the doors, or goes to +12volts. Then, the BLACK/ white wire from the 528t will goes to that wire. The red off the 528t goes to constant +12volts. Black and Brown both go to ground. Finally Yellow gets hooked up to that tiny orange wire off the window controller. As for the blue loop, if the wire in the car that switches goes to ground then leave it alone. If it goes to +12volts then cut it and isolate the ends. The orange wire on the 52t you will not need. |
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Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: November 25, 2005 at 7:40 PM
Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: November 26, 2005 at 3:59 AM
awesome information. Still not quite sure how to hook up the 528t correctly. I totally understand how to hook up the window module, but just not the pulse timer to activate the window module. Black - Ground
Red - +12volts
BLACK/ white - trigger input
Brown - ground
Yellow to trigger input of window module
Lock activation from keyless goes to +12v so cut the blue loop. This sound right? -------------
Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: November 26, 2005 at 6:48 PM
Can anyone give me a difinitive answer? We are kinda lost
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Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: November 27, 2005 at 1:27 AM
without hooking up the timer, how can i make sure it is sending a longer timed pulse to the window module since the 'activation wire' is always sending +12v? -------------
Posted By: coppellstereo
Date Posted: November 27, 2005 at 1:50 AM
i cant edit, but i meant without hooking the timer up to the window module and up to the windows (full install). how can i bench test it?
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