CS-2016FM Won’t Remote Start

Guys,

I installed this CS-2016FM about a month ago and everything was working fine.  Last night I hit remote start and it turned over fine then the car just shut off and the remote quit responding.  I ended up setting off the alarm, putting in the key, and hitting the valet to get the alarm to quit going off.  Now whenever I try to remote start, the system chirps, the dash lights / stereo come on, but it doesn't try to crank.  The brain shuts down and trys again as it's designed to do if it doesn't start.  I noticed that when trying to remote start everything comes on except the blower motor for the Heater / AC system.  So tonight I pulled out my test light and when remote starting there is no power on the gray accessory wire (voltage is fine when key is in the 'on' position) and there is never a +12V signal going to the starter wire (again, starts fine with the key).  I backprobed the grey wire at the brain and there is def. no power coming from the brain when remote starting.  I checked all the power fuses and all is well.  Alarm functions just as it should, remote starting is the only problem.

This is installed in a '89 Olds Cutlass Supreme (no PATS / VATS / or any other kind of key-based security) and like I said was working fine for about a month.

Any help would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks,

Tom

I didn't think that would affect remote starting either, but those were the only problems I found.  No power on the Gray wire (ever), and there is no 12V signal to tell the starter to "crank".  I rechecked with a test light the other ignition wires / accessory wires and everything else powers on during remote start as it should.

Tom

The hoodpin switch is okay, b/c when I have the hood open the LCD remote tells me when I try to arm it.  Also, from experience, when the hood pin switch wire is grounded the car will not even attempt a start.  It will chirp but none of the electronics power on.  I'm sure the brake switch is okay, because when the car is trying to remote start, I can hit the brake pedal to get it to abort and the car to shut back down as it's designed.

Tom

I never thought of trying to start it while its running to see if it holds it running.  Good thought, I will give that a try after work.

I do have the starter disable relay installed - I will just swap it out since its in one of those nifty plugs.  :)  I figured it was alright since I could still start the car with the key, but I will swap since it's an easy one.

The way this thing is installed I'd hate to have a bad CPU, but I will also begin looking into warranties.

Thanks!

Tom

I'm feeling a bit under the weather so I haven't had a chance to get under the dash with the multimeter, however, I did start the car and then enabled the remote start and it did keep the car running as it should.  Also when I put it into this mode and turn the key off the blower fan (Grey wire) turns off as I stated previously.  I still need to check the brake wire for a possible voltage when not pressed down however the break pedal does disable the cruise control like it should.  I will also swap the relay for the starter disable and see if that makes any difference.

I have a feeling I may need to start looking at a CPU.  Has anyone had any experience with crimestopper's warranty department?  I bought this unit new off eBay, I can check with the seller for warranty, but would rather go through Crimestopper if possible.

Thanks everyone for your assistance on this issue.

Thanks,

Tom

Update:  I swapped the starter disable relay - same issue.  Checked the hood pin for ground when closed, there's no ground.  Checked the brake wire for power when pedal not pushed down, there was none.  I set it to tachless mode, same issue.  I used the 'tach finder' feature, it finds the tach is operating properly.

Any other suggestions before I call crimestopper?

Thanks,

Tom

Can this get any worse!?  I called Crimestopper they gave me an RMA number and return instructions.  Before I do this I have one more idea.  I got under the dash and my power wires are double fused.  I had checked the ones under the hood but there are two more under the dash, one was blown.  I FIXED IT!  (I'm an idiot for not checking that before, but I fixed it.)  I start puting everything back together and now my power door locks don't work!!  I hit 12V to the wire at the alarm (positive-trigger door locks) and they lock / unlock, but they don't do anything and there is no signal being sent out of the power door lock plug!!!!!  I checked the fuses again thinking that maybe one kept blowing, but everything is good in that department.  Any ideas on why my locks wouldn't be working?

Thanks,

Tom