’01 S10 Blazer Auto Start Wiring

Hi Everybody,

I have done a couple auto start installs before and I'm now doing this 2001 S10 Blazer and wanted to make sure I had the correct wires. I did an extensive test of all the appropriate wires coming from the key cylinder and got a little confused by the results.

First, I'd like to mention that I got three wire charts for this vehicle from three different sources and NONE of them mysteriously make any mention of the thick Brown wire. So I have no idea what the Brown wire is for although it's as thick as the rest of the high current auto start wires that it's grouped with so I'm thinking it's got to be an ACC or RUN wire?

Another thing that has me confused is that from my understanding, an ACC wire should read 12 volts at ACC position and zero volts during crank. And Ignition wires should read 12 volts at run AND during crank. Well the ORG and BRN wire do not do this.

Please see the results below that I got using my meter and set me straight on what I should do.


Wire Color|Key Back|Key Out(B+)|ACC|Run|Crank|Notes
=========================================================
RED - - - - - - - - - - X                     Always On

RED / WHT - - - - - - - - X                     Always On

YEL - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - X   Start Wire

PNK - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - X        12V @ crank

WHT - - - - - - - - - - - - - - X            12V @ crank

ORG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - X       Dead @ crank

BRN - - - - - X - - - - - - - - - - X       Dead @ crank
=========================================================

Other Info:
- ORG is Blower Motor

- Note that BRN has 12v in the "Key Back" position
=========================================================

Thanks guys!
John

Sorry everybody, I'm having some problems writing in the little chart so I made a picture. Hope this looks better. Notice, for example, that the ORG wire looks like an ignition wire but it's dead at crank....

If the white wire is a 2nd IGN, what is the ACC wire? The white wire was the only wire that gave 12v at the ACC position.

Also, what is CEL?

as ohiomike said, your white wire is your 2nd ignition wire and needs to be powered during remote start or you may get a check engine light... some chevy trucks do that. As for your acc question,the orange is the true acc wire that will control blower motor as I see mentioned before. Use this wire as your acc. The thick brown is a radio only acc when the key is turned backwards as you found with your meter, but wont work for the blower motor, that is why it isnt mentioned in the tech sheets dont worry about it. Good luck... i'm sure you also have the proper bypass needed for the passlock II

oh yeah and CEL the ohiomike was talking about was "check engine light".... at least thats my guess because thats what youll get if you dont power the 2nd igntion, but i already mentioned that... hope this helps good luck!!

Excellent info! Thanks guys.

Actually all the GM cars I did before had I think what you call VATS (pellet in key). But I have never done a Passlock II. The key for the blazer has no pellet. Is there a post on here for how to do passlock II or can someone explain it?

I am very familar with the VATS and tricking the car in thinking the car with a resistor of proper value. So if Passlock II isnt much different then that'll be good.

Thanks again guys!
John

Passlock II is a more advanced GM security... same principal as VATS but the RCODE is now inside the head of the key and is ever changing. You need to buy a bypass designed to "learn" the RCODE and tell the vehicle the code when it asks for it. The part from DEI is a 555L. Your local shops should carry them and instructions are in the box. Good luck again!

also found this link for you in another posting:
https://www.directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/accessories/N555L_7-02B.pdf

Actually, you reminded me of something I wanted to ask. As I was probing the wires when I was building the wire chart at the top of the post, I found that I was able to "hot wire" the car.

I wanted to see if the blower motor was in fact the orange wire so jumped a wire from the red wire in the harness to the orange and the blower started. That answered that.

BUT, I was wondering if the car would crank (WHILE NO KEY WAS IN THE IGNITION) if I jumped from the red to the yellow starter wire....well, the car cranked. I didn't leave the wire attached to the yellow starter wire long enough to "start" the car where it is then idling, but the car did crank. Shouldn't the car not have cranked since there was no key in there?

Isn't that what the passlock II system is supposed to prevent?

Passlock II prevents the vehicle from starting not from cranking. While you are able to get the starter to crank, without the proper RCODE the vehicle should not start. Even when you wire in the 555L if you dont get it just right the vehicle cranks and sometimes even starts for a breif second and dies, and you will see the "security" light on your dash flashing at you. If you try too many times without the proper RCODE the vehicle will go into a longterm tamper mode and you will have to wait 10 minutes to start the vehicle again. I have never tried to "hotwire" the vehicles but everything i know about the passlock systems says that should NOT work for ya..........sorry i'm sure not the answer you were hoping for but thats what i know at least

no, the pass lock will shut off the fuel pump or some other important function like 5 seconds after the car starts. it gives the car jacker like 4 seconds of joy then takes it away.

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hey, everyone has got to start somewhere. but ill learn

Thats a great answer. Makes sense because I never did actually let it start. I just didnt think it would even allow it to crank but i guess it does...no biggie as long as the car doenst start, the theif aint going anywhere    : )

i found a wiring diagram to the Passlock II where you can use 2 relays (where you dont have to buy a 555L) Any reason not to use the method in this link?

https://www.wiringinstructions.com/238.htm

Or does the 555L provide other features above and beyond the method in this link?

the 555L doesnt do anything else.. there shouldnt be a problem with that set up.... just keep in mind that the relay set up or the 555L is going to be the new passlock system. In other words your vehicle will be relaying on its functionality to start and run for ever. So make sure you find the proper resister combo and wire up the relays exact. Keep the diagrams on file somewhere too because if down the road you have the problems that i talked about earlier with the passlock, I.E. the security light, you will need to check that set-up out and possibly reconnect the factory passlock wire that you cut. Just a heads up... i have seen a few passlock issues in my time installing, even had some vehicles towed to our shop because of issues like i just mentioned. Just giving you a heads up!!!

But based on the diagram i provided, it looks like the Passlock II is only temporarily bypassed during auto-start and that its not really used "forever". Because with the key being used (not auto-start) the passcode II will run through the relay and not know the difference because it will be using the factory passlock II.

But I do have a question about the diagram i provided. When you really look at it, the relay on the Right side only provides a ground to the relay on the Left. So why do you even need that relay? Why dont you just run the negative ignition output to energize the relay on the left??

first of all i realize that the relay keeps the passlock connected and the RCODE in the key is used BUT that yellow wire is still iterrupted by the relay... so basically the only way you would have problems is if the relay you are using decides to fail or decides to stay open, nonetheless just putting a troubleshooting idea in your head now to save some time later if needed.

As for the second relay, it looks to me like they want a good solid ground for the relay set-up and not just the negative trigger from the R/S. I would wire it up as shown and not cut corners on passlock... sorry i am just over cautious with the passlock, cuz i have had some really difficult ones... mainly on cavaliers, but when you warranty the work you do for as long as the customer owns the vehicle you tend to be more cautious. So my recomendation is be safe and wire it up as shown. Good luck

bestbuymn, I checked out the diagram listed for VATS. Its at this link:

https://www.wiringinstructions.com/237.htm

For sh*ts and giggles, check that out and tell me if that shouldn't work just perfect for passlock II as it's basically the same setup. I dont want to beat this topic to death but I have always been a believer in keeping things simple. And as you mentioned, passlock can be a pain, so my logic is if one relay is 100% all you need, then thats what you should do - it's also quicker and cheaper. It honestly looks like the guy that wrote the passlock II diagram had a brain fart because i can't see what the relay on the right is for.

Just because the passlock II diagram is in print, doesnt necessarily mean it's "the best". Whats your two cents?

do be honest i cant say that it wont work if you just do one relay. I have never tried it so i dont know for sure. All i can say is that both DEI's wiring diagram and the one you found both have two relay's listed for it. DEI reccomends using the 555L, but thats because from an installers perspective its easier than dealing with figuring out the resistance and wiring up two relays etc... we just connect up a few wires and hang another box under the dash and call it good. Its the same cost to our customers so we just do it. I tend to trust the information i recieve from DEI.. they arent always right on everything, but when it comes to info like this they have never failed me.

If I were doing it, i would wire it up as shown. In your case if you really believe the 2nd relay is pointelss, dont use it, make sure when you cut your passlock wire you leave enough length on both sides so you can re-connect it if need be, but trying it with the one wont hurt anything. As I explained before, if the vehicle doesnt see the correct RCODE the it just wont start and you know that you need the 2nd relay if it starts then great. If it tries 3 times with the wrong code then you wont be able to start it for 10 minutes even with the correct code... keep that in mind.

Sorry, that was a novel all by itself, but there you have my opinion.. as usual... good luck

I looked at the DEI 555L PDF file but I couldnt find anything talking about it using two relays. Just curious, where did you see that?

https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1048.pdf