2001 Lexus RX 300 bypass

I installed a remote starter in a 2001 Lexus RX 300 today. I installed the remote starter first and put a black key in the ignition without turning it. The remote starter worked fine.

Then I installed an Omega DB-PKT transponder interface. I wired it up as directed but in the interests of full disclosure here's what I did:

    OMEGA DB-PKT                      LEXUS


Black ground wire                 White black
Red 12 B+ wire                     BLACK/ Red
Orange Syncro wire             Gray
Pink Clock                             Pink wire, ECM cut side
Pink/White Clock                   Pink wire, key cylinder side
Purple Data Wire                  Purple wire, ECM cut side
PURPLE / White Data               Purple wire, key cylinder side
Green Key sense                 Blue grounded when key in ign.
Brown                                    not hooked up yet

I then put the black key in the ignition and turned it on--not start.

I pressed the gas 5 times
I pressed the brake 6 times
I removed the black key
I grounded the brown wire from the DB-PKT and pressed the gas again.

I waited 5 minutes as the security light never stopped blinking after 1-2 minutes as it's supposed to.
I hooked up the brown wire to the groundout from the RS and the vehicle won't start.

I tried this several times--it never worked.
I tried the 5x gas and 6x brake without turning the key on
Whenever I remove the black key from the ign, the security light starts to blink. It does this all the time regularly. It doesn't blink faster or differently when the bypass is supposed to be programming so I can't tell if the programming is taking place or not.

The Omega DB-PKT, which is supposed to be the same as bypasskit's PKT doesn't look anything like it. The wiring comes out of the short side of the box, not the long side.

Has anyone else had problems programming one of these?
Problems with defective ones?
Problems with Lexus programming methods?

Any help you can offer will be much appreciated. My sister-in-law is going home to VT tomorrow and if I can't get this squared away before that her RS isn't going to do her any good.

all the lexus and toyota modules suck to program, as well as keys.  i just used a relay setup and a valet key.  on my rx 300 i used the "keycard" and cut the chip out of.    let me know if you want to use that route.  super easy and reliable.   back to the module however ... those cars are very picky (all toyota's)   make sure the doors are closed,  hood is closed, and even the windows are rolled up.  not joking,, they are retarded.  i once spent 3 hrs on a customers car and finally got his toyota seq.  module to work after rolling up the  windows.   some dont car it seems like, but some do. .  try that,   if not hit me back and i will tell you how a relay and a key or keycard will do it in about 5 minutes and never fail you.  good luck

chris

-------------
MOBILE F/X

I used something like that (another brand)---what a timewaster.

Just get a cheap aftermarket older-style Toyota chip key. The old-style Ford keys use the same chip inside, so you can use a Ford key as well.

Since the Toyota and Ford keys won't fit into the key cylinder, just tape it onto the front of the keyswitch......rig a jumper wire or toggle switch to activat the keysense......and program it like a regular Toyota key.

--Insert good key. (Don't turn it on.)

--5 brake, 6 gas.

--Remove good key.

--Tape new key to the keyhole, jumper the keysense wire.

--1 gas.

--Wait 60 seconds, security light should stop flashing.

--Done. Pressing the gas and brake together exits programming.

TIP: If you insert a good key, the security light should come on for a second and go out.......if you do the same by holding your new key there and jumping the keysense wire, you'll know if you programmed it right.

I want to thank both of you for your suggestions.

I couldn't use the key card method because my sister-in-law isn't the original owner and the key was there, but the card wasn't.

I think that what Chris suggested was what ultimately did it for me. I learned the hard way that when doing alarm/rs work, roll down a window before starting--locked the keys in one too many times. So since I had some windows down that may have been the problem. I also found a forum that said to start by pressing the gas and brake at the same time--think 2-one thousand--then put in the key and do the "brake dance". I think that you also MUST have the doors closed even though the instructions say that you should hear the key chime when you ground the actuator wire and that you should press the gas and brake pedals with your hand. I don't know about you guys, but I can't do that sitting in the driver's seat with the door closed.

So thanks for your input--it really helped. The RS was done 30 minutes before she left and it was working fine. I will use your other methods for future toyota/lexus projects.

BTW--when researching this vehicle through the forums someone asked if anyone found the hood pin wire inside the car to post it. I found the wire colors weren't 100% accurate so here's the location I found it. Behind the fuse panel is the Body Control Module. In the second connector from the top, all the way over to the left, the fifth (could've been 6th, but I'm pretty sure 5th) wire from the top was my hood wire. It was RED / white and it's easy to check with a digital OHM meter. You have to open the hood all the way though, just popping it without lifting it will not ground the wire. Using the orange tach wire in the 10 pin connector just to the right of the fuse panel makes it an install you can do completely in the driver's kick panel if you want to grab battery power from the ign wires.

Thanks again

glad you got it.  never knew the ford keys would work.   thanks for the tip from the other guy.  initially when these where getting to be a routine security on toyota's   they never knew which module or which key number was a match for which car.  there was always some uncertainty if you had the right part to start w/ when programming.  long story short is that 95% of all of my customers are required to bring a valet or spare key to donate to the rs install.  extra $25 charge for my priceless .90 cent relay and speaker wire setup and 3 minutes on the install and its a better day for chris.  i realize thats not always gonna happen w/ friends, family, and cheap customers.   i have notice alot of toyota and all transponder reciever units getting more sensative it seems tho.  my lexus for example i was able to tap directly into the 2 car reciever wires off of the cylinder and that works great, but it was really picky w/ a wrap on the cylinder.  i have been tapping into most new nissans and toyota that have a 2 wire coil wiring setup.   i just did a new montana van  yesterday that i had to use about 6 different wrap configurations and (1 loop, 2 loops, ect ) and alot of placement options to get the car to detect the key.  anyways enough about that.  glad  i could help,  if not at least let you know your not crazy to think the windows and doors affected the install.  

chris

-------------
MOBILE F/X