Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Passlock II Resistors

I know it's a cheap way of doing a bypass, but I plan on wiring a relay and resistor(s) to bypass Passlock II.

My question is what is a good selection of resistors to buy so I'm preppared to do this install? And I assume the higher tolerance resistors are what I should get?

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"Drive it like you stole it"

resistors and relays will do the trick fine. With PL2 you need to match the value as closely as possible, so some high tolerance resistors are preferable. They say that the pass lock will work with a value plus or minus 10% of what the car reads, but since resistor values change over time, and more so in cold weather, try to get it within 10 ohms. Any 1/4 watt resistors will be fine, just make sure to meter them before you put them in.

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Northstart.....or start it your damn self.

Radio Shack has like a massive quantity of resistors you can buy in a pack...I think it's around $10 for several hundred resistors in different impedance values. I don't think the tolerance will make that much difference.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

Passlock 2,

cheapest way

forget the relay....once you get your measuremnt connect the resistor(s) ass follows

cut the yellow wire (theft system) , connect the resistor to the yellow ecm side(leave the yellow key side alone)

and connnect the other end of the resistors to the black wire.

try starting your car by key, if it starts and your anti-theft does not stay lit....your good to go. If it stalls you have the wrong measurements , check the value of the resitors.

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Testing is the key

Wow, quick response, thanks.

Any suggestion on what values to get? I'm not sure what ranges the Passlock II systems operate in since I've never done one of these before. (almost all of the immobilizing systems I've done have been the transponder-type)

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"Drive it like you stole it"

Nevermind, the answer was just posted in the time it took me to type the last post!

So Slicksam, you just permanently disable the factory system all together?

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"Drive it like you stole it"

ok to get the measurement.

I usually start the car , cut the yellow wire take the red lead from my multi meter connect it to the yellow KEY SIDE

and the black to the black wire near the yellow, write that number down, THEN I switch the leads around to get another number,

eg. first reading 8.09k second reading 7.69k

I would use a 8k resistor

that values are all different on every car.

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Testing is the key

GMC4x4Guy wrote:

Nevermind, the answer was just posted in the time it took me to type the last post!

So Slicksam, you just permanently disable the factory system all together?

yup...sorry to say , but there a pain in rear, especially the passlock 1

any passlock 1 or 2 , I don't bother screwing around...resistors and have a nice day.

I don't think that those cars will get stolen...no offence to any GM or chevy owners...I just hate that anti theft device

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Testing is the key

so you do a half-assed bypass job based on your own personal tastes?? wow, dont work on MY vehicle.....

GMC4x4Guy... do yourself a favour a go out and get a data bypass for your vehicle, something like the GMBP or 457G... there are only 4 wires to hook up, it takes 5 minutes and it reliably bypasses your Passlock circuit only during remote start......

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

kgerry wrote:

so you do a half-assed bypass job based on your own personal tastes?? wow, dont work on MY vehicle.....
GMC4x4Guy... do yourself a favour a go out and get a data bypass for your vehicle, something like the GMBP or 457G... there are only 4 wires to hook up, it takes 5 minutes and it reliably bypasses your Passlock circuit only during remote start......

so you do a half-assed bypass job based on your own personal tastes wow, dont work on MY vehicle..... <--------buddy i was installing starters way before these modules came out.......I have seen ALOT OF TOWINGS being brought to me cause the customer is trying to start the car and it is stalling. And IT was not me who installed it. There are certain cars that I bypass it completly like cavalier, malibu and sunfire(older models). But there are certian GM cars that I do install the by pass on it.

I know FOR SURE that with my way, if the key starts by key.....It will always start by remote starter

and another thing........customers will try to cut the cost anywhere possible. quoted by GMC4X4 "I know it's a cheap way of doing a bypass" I rest my case

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Testing is the key

slicksam wrote:

[QUOTE=kgerry] customers will try to cut the cost anywhere possible. quoted by GMC4X4 "I know it's a cheap way of doing a bypass" I rest my case

It's NOT the customer that cuts the cost..............
If the Shop does it the way the customer wants & ignores the the Better way of installation, then the Shop suffers. Not only from Sales & Service, but reputation..............which in some cases means nothing to some

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

very true... it's the professionalism and integrity of the Installer that will determine what type of bypass the vehicle gets... NOT THE CUSTOMER!!

i would never consider doing a lesser job just to hit a price point... i tell my customers what it will cost to do it properly, and if they want to go somewhere else to get a lesser job for a lesser price, by all means do so.....

my reputation is worth more than some stranger's nickles and dimes......

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I agree. I dont have a problem with doing the resistor bypass for PL2 systems, but only if a relay is in place. That way, if a resistor fails or the values change overtime, the car will still still start with the key. The other way, the entire operation of the car is dependant on 10 cents worth of resistors, and I am not comfortable with that.

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Northstart.....or start it your damn self.

alright.

let talk price!

How much would you charge a customer for a remote starter + doorlocks on a

1999 Chevrolet Cavalier?

I want to know also the brand of starter you install.

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Testing is the key

slicksam wrote:

alright. let talk price! How much would you charge a customer for a remote starter + doorlocks on a 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier?I want to know also the brand of starter you install.

Loaded Question........
Prices Installed vary from Country, State, Region, City, etc.
Brand has very little to do with how a Shop would proceed in using a Resistor ByPass versus Data ByPass.

Especially when the Installer wnats to modify the Factory ByPass with a single Resistor and Not use a Relay. I guess the Resistors used by those Installers are not prone to Heat or Cold and never change in value

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

we sell many different brands and many different models..... we charge $99 extra for any bypass module installed and $49 extra for keyless entry installed..... one thing you dont seem to grasp is that it's not about price..... we charge what it would cost to do a job properly and professionally....

i'm not about how cheap i can do a job..... and you know the funny thing? we are busy as heck most days taking care of the customers who want it done properly... i do many more $699 RS installs than i do $199 installs.... you only have so many hours in a day... why step over a dollar to pick up a dime???

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

ok nevermind

whatever

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Testing is the key

First off you guys you can't do it this way. Passlock 2 uses a fluctuating resistance so 1 resistor won't do. Just go out and buy a DEI 555L and do it right!!

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

Fluctuating resistance? That's the first time I've ever heard of that, unless you mean it fluctuates because of heat.

Its not just heat that causes it, most of the time people have problems in the cold, try using a 555T and see how long it works. It won't, GM should really think about not adding security systems to their cars, they don't get stolen and they're easy to steal with it.

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

Thats exactly what I am talking about. Heat fluctuations work in reverse too, that is, the resistance will change as it gets colder. Most of the time, people want a remote starter because its cold outside, and the resistance changes when it gets colder. It's not much, but then again, the tolerance with pl2 is so small that this change can make the difference between starting and not starting.

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Northstart.....or start it your damn self.

As far as prices go, that is where things get tricky. For and entry level RS, I charge $265.95. That will get you 1000 ft. of range, and keyless entry if you have power locks. A decent 2-way RS will run $465.95 for 1/2 a mile and keyless. PK2 is done with a module, and is another 75 bucks. Factory security brings up the price another 35, and if the car has a transponder, its an aditional 75 as well.

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Northstart.....or start it your damn self.

GEEQUE wrote:

Its not just heat that causes it, most of the time people have problems in the cold, try using a 555T and see how long it works. It won't, GM should really think about not adding security systems to their cars, they don't get stolen and they're easy to steal with it.

I'd have to respectfully disagree with the view that GMs cars with Passlock are easier to steal. If I remember right the only GM vehicle on 'Most Stolen Vehicle' lists that has passlock is the Escalade, whereas plenty of late model Hondas and Toyotas are there, as well as older cars without immobilizers.

Passlock's still worth something because it requires that a key be used in the lock cylinder, which isn't the way most car thieves do things.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

If you want to go the cheap route, go to radio shack and buy a potentiometer and not a resistor. They may cost a few cents more but with resistors you cannot always get the correct resistance. With passlock sometimes "close enough" doesn't always work. Using a relay and resistor is not that bad of a way to do it, It works on the same theory as a 555l. It is just as easy to retrieve a resistance from a 555l or any other similar device.

I was thinking about that, but figured since someone didn't mention it then there may have been some problems with it. Does temperature affect it any more/less?

Here's a dumb question. It seems that most of the concerns are due to temperature affecting the resistance of the resistors. Obviously the factory system uses some sort of resistor; does't temperature affect that resistor?

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"Drive it like you stole it"

Yes it does to a point. It is a pretty close tolerance from what I understand, but it does change. The ECU knows what range it is supposed to be in.... the problem is when your resistance swings outside that range.

Units like the 555L relearn the resistance everytime they are started by the key. This is what makes them the more solid Passlock bypasses out there. And, at $15 or so, pretty solid bang for the buck.

Gus

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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

what if you're installing a push-button start like me, it appears i'll have to use a resistor or potentiometer. What's my best bet to avoid failure?

I just did this for the first time on Sunday. I used resistors, but the R-code was 14.14K and I made the resistors read 14.93 and everything worked great. It's kind of a pain figuring out how to link the right resistors together, but after that, no problems. I used 1% tolerance resistors so I doubt the resistance will vary much with temperature. I bought a potentiometer "just in case", but I don't know what the tolerance to heat is so I didn't use it.

On a side note, interfacing the door locks without the 456G or 457G module is a great big pain in the can. Next time I will be using a module because it will save me a headache! The amount of parts required just about equals the cost of the module. I used 6 Bosch relays, three door lock relay harness's, 8 diodes or so and an hour and a half of labor (and everything went smoothly). The 457G module also includes the passlock bypass, so that's the plan for next time.

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"Drive it like you stole it"