97 Tahoe, Autopage RS-85 alarm/rs

I've got a 97 Chevy Tahoe LT 4WD 4 Door that i just installed a Autopage RS-855 everything seems to be working great now i need to get some info on what Colors go to what (See Picture) and where the wires are located at to make the connections for my Window Roll Up Module that i just got i attached a Image of the installation instructions so once again any help will be greatly appreciated

Reversal Rest At Ground Power Window Circuit

Window Up	DriverF\ D BLUE PassF\ L BLUE DriverR\ D GREEN PassR\ L GREEN	@ MAIN SWITCH
Window Down	DriverF/ BROWN PassF/ TAN DriverR/ PURPLE PassR/ PURPLE

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Thanks for your response mo12v, do you know if i have to make the connections at the Actual switch and on the actual motors as it says on the Diagram or is there any other way to make the connections (Driver Side Kick Panel etc.) ???

You'll have to make you connections in the drivers door for at least the drivers window.  You MIGHT be able to pick the other windows up in the drivers kick, I stress the word might  since I haven't played with one of those trucks in a couple years.

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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

cntrylvr79 wrote:

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You'll have to make you connections in the drivers door for at least the drivers window.  You MIGHT be able to pick the other windows up in the drivers kick, I stress the word might  since I haven't played with one of those trucks in a couple years.

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Thank You

I've got a question for you guys about a Remote Starter/Alarm Install Unit Autopage RS-855 that i just installed in my 1997 Chevy Tahoe 4DR LT Series, everything was working fine until this morning when the outside temperature was 9 Degrees it ended up not starting on the first crank and it had to double crank to start, i have the tach wire hooked up which i got directly from the coil which i metered with a VM at AC and got about 4+ volt reading, it started fine when the temp was around 50 Degrees and kept running just like it
was supposed, is there any way that it could be a problem that i did the programming after the truck had been started several times should i try to program it during a cold morning ???
If you guys have any ideas let me know. Thanks

you may just have to increase the crank time slightly... it likely isnt a tach issue at all......

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

kgerry wrote:

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you may just have to increase the crank time slightly... it likely isnt a tach issue at all......

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Thanks for the repsonse, the only problem with increasing the crank time is that this morning it sound like the second time it overcranked

Try letting the vehicle run for a while before you program the tach, so the vehicle is at running temp. Sounds like the truck might be giving it a weak signal upon programming. Also, make sure your getting the right wire. I had this problem before and it was the wrong tach. Where did you get the tach signal?

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

GEEQUE wrote:

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Try letting the vehicle run for a while before you program the tach, so the vehicle is at running temp. Sounds like the truck might be giving it a weak signal upon programming. Also, make sure your getting the right wire. I had this problem before and it was the wrong tach. Where did you get the tach signal?

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Right at the ECM Module on the passenger side rear of the motor, there was three wire in a pliug and i tapped into the white wire didn't get any reading when first connected with the Truck off and when i turned on the truck it went to around 6 or so then down to 4+ something measurments taken in AC Voltage with a Multimeter.

Try what I said, with the truck running for a while before programming. Also, with the truck running, test the wire your tapping into with a VM on ohms and see if the signal fluctuates when you presson the gas. Try that and let me know.

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

ECM is not in engine compartment, its behind glove to the right. Wire is white.

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

GEEQUE wrote:

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Try what I said, with the truck running for a while before programming. Also, with the truck running, test the wire your tapping into with a VM on ohms and see if the signal fluctuates when you presson the gas. Try that and let me know.

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Thank you very much for the tips i will get back to you tomorrow to give you a update on how everything went.

GEEQUE wrote:

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ECM is not in engine compartment, its behind glove to the right. Wire is white.

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That was the weird part i checked there and didn't see anything other than the Airbag connections so i looked into the Chilton and they said something about the Coil/ECM deal being the box i tapped into.

i usually grab it right at the cluster

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

Here is where i made the Tach connection

Cluster can be difficult to get to. Sometimes you can grab it at the test plug under the dash. The wire your trying to use does it fluctuate when you depress the gas?

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Gary Kline
MECP Master Technician

GEEQUE wrote:

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Cluster can be difficult to get to. Sometimes you can grab it at the test plug under the dash. The wire your trying to use does it fluctuate when you depress the gas?

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Yes

Is there any way to reset this unit without going into Programming Mode ??? I've tried to get in there and its not working

As of right now the unit won't do anything i've checked all the fuses and they all look fine i've taken them out and let the unit sit for about 10 Minutes and it still wouldn't respond when i pressed the arm or any other button on the remote any help is appreciated !!!