2003 GMC Sierra Content Security light

Hello,

I have a 2003 GMC Sierra Denali w/ Quadrasteer that I have installed a JTI 200 remote starter in.

After remote starting and upon pressing the brake pedal to "switch over" to run on the vehicle, the yellow "content security" light comes on.

I have searched the archives until my brain reached full-swell, so I figured I'd better ask a direct question - how do I get the light to stay out?

I have obviously installed a Passlock bypass module, but I did not purchase a lock interface module as I am not interested in using the door lock feature on the new remote. From what I read in the archives, a lock interface module would handle both the content security issue as well as handle the bussed door locks if I so choose to use that feature, both without having to go into the driver's door.

If I had known that before I went into the door, I certainly would have bought a lock interface module, just for ease of install!

Anyway, I connected the yellow/black  factory alarm disarm output wire from the remote start module to the  light green wire coming from the driver's door module. This wire (yellow/black) provides a ground pulse during the remote start sequence before the starter is activated.

This did not effect the content security light.

I tried locking the doors using the factory remote when the driver's door was open and the truck still running from a remote start (I read this is in the archives) - no help.

There is also some information about attaching the pink/black factory alarm rearm output wire from the remote start module (currently not hooked up) to the gray/black wire coming from the driver's door lock module. Or, if you wanted to cheat a bit, you could attach the  rearm wire to the gray/black positive domelight wire behind the driver's fusebox with the caveat that the dome light override switch would not allow the rearming of the system if it is depressed.

Am I on the right track or out in left field? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks!

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Bob O.

what bypass did you use?

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how own your mind, control your life.
MECP certified. always use a DMM

The bypass module is JTI's A29P. This is for the Passlock system; different than the Content Security, but you prolly already know that!

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Bob O.

well i always use the 555l and y never have no problem

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how own your mind, control your life.
MECP certified. always use a DMM

The bypass module is for the Passlock system. The engine will not run without it.

The Content Security has nothing to do with the Passlock system or the bypass module.

The Content Security system only sets off the alarm (horn and/or lights) in the event of someone trying to break into the vehicle.

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Bob O.

is JTI's A29P a data module? or a cut in bypass?

dont try the rearm wire to the + domelight white as one is + & one is -   quick recipe for disaster.....    i usually use the 457G or XK01 on this platform and dont have OEM alarm issues at all..... assuming the passlock unit ios doing it's job, you could alawys just install the 456G for OEM security shut down.... although, it wont shutdown RAP like the 457G or XK01 will do.......

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

The security light staying on in the instrument panel is a Passlock problem. It does not have anything to do with the alarm if the truck is remote starting without setting off the alarm.

The easiest way on the 4 door trucks to shut off the Retained Accessory Power is to attach the re-arm wire to one of the rear door trigger wires. They are located at the BCM under the dash. Pulsing the domelight wire will not work....and it may damage something if done wrong.

Well, it appears that I have made a big boo-boo.

The light that comes on in the cluster is a yellow light showing a picture of a big padlock around a vehicle. I thought this was for the Content Security system, but they use this light for both Content Security and for the Passlock system (thanks JWorm!).

Using a Tech 2 , I retrieved a code B2958 (security system sensor data circuit high) from the BCM. The system is in "fail enable", meaning that there is a failure but the vehicle is still allowed to start. The engineers were smart enough to program in features like this (a way to distinguish between a component failure rather than a tampering event) so a person doesn't get stranded for an open wire, like they did in the old VATS days.

When I get to the bottom of the Passlock problem, I will post the results (or ask more questions if I can't figure it out!).

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Bob O.

This is kicking my butt.

I rechecked my installation of the  JTI A29P security bypass module.

kgerry, I don't know if it's a data module or cut-in bypass (I'm not familiar with these terms).

There are a series of switches and a fine-tuning potentiometer to set the resistance of the Passlock system. The resistence is determined by measuring between the cut key side of the Passlock sensor yellow wire and the ORANGE / black wire during the release of the key after cranking. You can verify the correct resistance setting by probing 2 contacts inside the Bypass module.

In my case, it is 2400 ohms. The vehicle remote starts fine with no Passlock issues. The problem is after turning the key to the run position, and then either applying the brake, letting the timer time out or terminating the remote start by pressing the button on the FOB again, the security light then comes on steady. If you turn the vehicle off and restart with the key, all is fine (starts fine with no security light).

Because the truck starts fine on the remote and there are no Passlock issues until terminating the remote start, is there anything else it could be besides a faulty or incompatible Passlock Bypass?

Is there another brand  Passlock 2  Bypass that is known to work on this vehicle and is it compatible with any brand remote starter?

Who makes a 555l? Thanks,

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Bob O.

i belive your problem is that youre starting truck with the 'other' remote before you unlock your doors.anti theft  is not de-activated .make sure your ign.1 , 2 etc. is connected corectly and your starter is not enegizing the ign leads in the incorrect order.i use the panic button on the factory remote to activate starter.black wire at bcm provides neg.out when panic button is pushed on factory remote.diode isolate black wire so the horn button doesnt activate starter.this also deactivates oem anti theft when truck starts.and you have to only keep up with one remote.losing the panic feature is well worth it.you can also put a switch on the horn (at bcm)to deactivate in when using your starter to keep things quieter.horn usually honks twice then the truck will start.

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2001 iasca idbl world finalist

then you have a cut in bypass ( you cut into the yellow passlock wire)    go with the 457G or the XK01 and save yourself a ton of grief

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I had this same problem when a customer brought me one of those cut modules that have set resistances through dip switches. The truck started but when it got colder he would get the Passlock light go on and sometimes it would not start at all and the truck would get put into long tamper mode.

I replaced the module that he supplied with a self learning PLXR and he was set and no lighton the dash. This will solve your problem that your having with the Passlock light.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

FYI   PLXR is now a PLJX

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

The fix was to throw that JTI bypass out!  I went to a place who does 1000's of RS's per year (4400 last year, so they say) and they use Audiovox exclusively. For $25, I bought a AS-GM4, which is a learning module. It was a snap to install and now everything works fine. 

I REALLY wish I had found this site before purchasing a remote start unit. I now know which manufacturers the majority of you folks like. Thanks again!

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Bob O.

I deal both Avox and DEI, the Avox bypass is ok but nothing beats a DEI 457G in a case like this! One wire and it's done.....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

I'm having the exact same problem on the exact same '03 truck. Just last week I did the exact same Autopage unit in an '05 using the same bypass method and now I'm having problems?

I went the cheap route, and used a relay with resistors, and I'm within 10 ohms (not K ohms)so it's safe to say that resistance is not the problem. It Remote starts fine. It works fine with the key, it just turns on the light when the remote start unit is turned off and the truck takes over.

I have a bypass ordered, so that should take care of the problem when it gets here.

I'm the type of person that wants to know WHY a problem is happening. If everything works fine, why does the light turn on? What's happening in the transition between the remote start turning off and the truck taking over that would do this? If you think about it, when the key is turned on, isn't that the biggest transition? All pressing the brake pedal does is turn off the power that's already being provided by the key switch.

The truck is a base model truck, so there's no factory alarm to disarm. It didn't even have door locks until about two hours ago.

Please help!!!

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"Drive it like you stole it"

No one?

I haven't seen the truck again, but I was thinking that it could have something to do with either the collapse of the relay coil or high resistance through the relay. The light comes on after the relay switches from the resistors to the OEM R-code, so the problem has to be there somewhere.

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"Drive it like you stole it"

I had an '03 bare bones GM Silverado work truck pickup do the same thing- drove me crazy- the security light was on while driving no matter how I started the truck-- put it through 100 ignition cycles and it went away on its own-  I had "metered" the passlock wires at the ecm- after I had gone through the resistance determination for setting the potentiometer in a GMATTII- just to double check- and that is what set the light on- I don't double check any more- and haven't had a concern since.  I figured that once it saw a code- it is a hard code- and keeps the light lit.  I refused to give it back to owner with the light on- took me about 2 hrs to get rid of it- checking and double checking all wiring etc.

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.

I wish I would have seen that last post sooner. I bought two bypasses, one DEI and the other Peripheral. Both still turned on the light when they turned off. I had no choice but to resort to bypassing the factory system all together. I'll admit it, I was out of options and this one does work. I know I would have double checked it; once with the leads one direction and once with them switched around. I just use the wires at the ignition switch though, not the ECM. I figure any change in resistance in the wires on the way to the ECM will still be there, because the bypass is being installed near the switch, not at the ECM.

If I see the truck again or have one with the same problem, I'll have to try cycling the ignition 100 times and see if the problem goes away. Thanks.

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"Drive it like you stole it"

I saw the owner of the '03 bare bones truck the other day- he told me the security light comes on occasionally- so my hard-wired bypass evidently is not getting it.  He is not concerned- although it is anoying- I told him I would install a learning module if he wants me to- looks like certain trucks don't like to be bypassed the hardwire way.........

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Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.