Print Page | Close Window

04 Explorer RS Problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=68765
Printed Date: April 30, 2024 at 10:22 PM


Topic: 04 Explorer RS Problem

Posted By: cwagner17
Subject: 04 Explorer RS Problem
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 10:00 PM

I have installed a Valet 562T with a 556UW in a 04 Explorer. Everything seems to be working but it doesn't always remote start. What happens sometimes is when the RS is activated the parking lights flash, ignition and accessory come on and that is it, the starter doesn't even try to crank. again it works 7/10 times.

I verified my connections and haven't found anything wrong. Here is what i followed incase anyone sees a problem:

12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 1 RED / LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 DARK GREEN/ LIGHT GREEN (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

and i have the Blue from the 556 to the Blue/White(2nd Status) on the 562T.

I've installed a couple of these systems and haven't ran into this problem before.

Thanks



Replies:

Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 10:22 PM
When it does this is the theft light flashing sometimes when its realy cold the ford keys send out differant signal. Your supposed to be able to freeze the key thats in the box then relearn it to the car. 




Posted By: cwagner17
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 10:36 PM
I don't think the theft light was flashing but i will double check this. This also happened when I had it in the garage and everything was at room temperature(62F). I will try it in the morning after it's been sitting all night in the cold.

Or should I be using the Blue(Status Output)instead of the Blue/white




Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 10:41 PM

It's probably a bypass module problem.  If this is a pellet type bypass module, maybe the signal is only getting to PATS module sometimes, as oppposed to every time.  Try moving the pellet if this is the case.



-------------
Keith




Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 11:07 PM
If the theft lights not flashing then its not the bypass. Is it set for tach or voltage.




Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 19, 2005 at 11:10 PM
Also make sure you have the purple rs wire connected to the starter side of the start wire and the green to the key side.




Posted By: cwagner17
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 6:57 AM
I verified that the purple and green are hooked up correctly.

I am using voltage sense.

yea when RS is activated the instrument cluster comes on as if you would turn the key to the on position and it doesn't even try to crank. The theft light comes on then goes off as normal. acts just like if the key was being used.




Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 9:01 AM
Have you verified that the RS puts +12V to the starter wire when it's supposed to? Maybe there is a bad relay or something inside the unit itself. Or maybe said wire is not a solid connnection to vehicle side of starter wire?  Check for a good solid ground while you're at it.  Intermittent problems may indicate a bad connection somewhere.

-------------
Keith




Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 9:42 AM
cwagner17 wrote:

the instrument cluster comes on as if you would turn the key to the on position and it doesn't even try to crank. The theft light comes on then goes off as normal. acts just like if the key was being used.


Your problem is right here! The PATS is not being bypass when you are doing the remote start. Get the bypass working first before proceeding any further. Other wise you are wasting your time. If the vehicle is able to crank than the bypass is successful. Once it's cranking, now you can look else where to see if any other connection you may have miss or done incorrectly.       

-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.posted_image




Posted By: cwagner17
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 11:24 AM
It does crank and start sometimes. Also I can have the key in the ignition and it will not crank with the RS.

I will verify my connections to the 556UW. I am using Red(+12), Black(Gnd) and Blue(activation). Does it matter if I use the Blue or the Blue/White off the 562T? They are both status outputs according to the manual.




Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 3:42 PM
Forget screwing with the bypass.  If the theft light only comes on momentarily then goes out, it is acting as normal, like you say.  Only when theft is flashing, would that be a bypass problem.  Try this...unhook the bypass completely, try the RS with key in ignition...chances are it will act the same way it does now.  I still think it's a bad connection somewhere.

-------------
Keith




Posted By: prdjr165
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 5:07 PM
The problemm is not your bypass module,the car will still crank even if the module is screwed up,You should check your hoodpin connection to make sure it's not getting a ground,make sure the hoodpin moves freely,and check your brake wire,if it sees positive voltage the car won't crank.




Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 5:13 PM

prdjr165 wrote:

The problemm is not your bypass module,the car will still crank even if the module is screwed up,You should check your hoodpin connection to make sure it's not getting a ground,make sure the hoodpin moves freely,and check your brake wire,if it sees positive voltage the car won't crank.

The comment about the brake reminded me of a 2002 Winstar with a sticky brake pedal.  The owner had to actually put her foot under the pedal and pull it up or else her brake lights would never turn off.



-------------
Keith




Posted By: accord78
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 5:16 PM
try to check your hood switch some times it makes good contact and some times it does check your conection and switch. this happen to me on my moms camry and it did everything u just said and it was my hood pin switch try that also check your break switch whyle your at it




Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 6:00 PM

thepencil wrote:

cwagner17 wrote:

the instrument cluster comes on as if you would turn the key to the on position and it doesn't even try to crank. The theft light comes on then goes off as normal. acts just like if the key was being used.


Your problem is right here! The PATS is not being bypass when you are doing the remote start. Get the bypass working first before proceeding any further. Other wise you are wasting your time. If the vehicle is able to crank than the bypass is successful. Once it's cranking, now you can look else where to see if any other connection you may have miss or done incorrectly.       

This is incorrect!

A non-programmed PATS will crank, start, then shut right down! If the theft light comes on and goes out, the bypass is programmed fine. Your problem is the tach signal.

Re-learn the tach signal. But make sure you have the correct wire! If I had to guess without seeing it, you have the wrong tach wire. Verify the AC voltage rises when when you increase RPM's by using a digital voltmeter.  Also, use the same meter to monitor the tach line by turning on the ignition and watching the meter. The voltage should rise when the ign is first turned on, then immediately fall to 0. It should THEN rise after the vehicle starts. Set the meter to anything above 10v aC.





Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 6:19 PM
You stated that it will not start with the key in the ignition, does it act the same as when you try to start it and it wont crank? If so then its a bypass issue the reason it wont start with the key in ignition is its reading 2 keys at the same time. I believe that on some fords the theft system will not let them crank no 100% sure of that. If it tries to crank when you have a key in ignition and just wont run then the problem is the tach .you need to change the setting to tach and use an uncommon fuel injector wire.




Posted By: cwagner17
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 9:23 PM
Ok, i'm currently using voltage sense but will switch over to tach. where is the best place to pick it up on this vehicle?

I will probably get to it tomorrow and will report back my results. thanks to everyone for their input




Posted By: chris354
Date Posted: December 20, 2005 at 9:53 PM

Use one of the uncommon fuel injector wires.At each injector there are 2 wires 1 will be the same color at all injectors the other will be differant for each injector thats the one you want.






Print Page | Close Window