Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 97 Mercedes C280, Viper 560xv

I am thinking of installing the security-Viper 791vx and collecting info beforehand.

C280-1997 with switch blade, do I have to connect all four doors' pin switch or just one for

driver side?, I have no idea, thnak you for your help

Hi, I am confused with Door Pin switch and Door trigger.

The door pin switch is the one that when door opens the dome light, right?

Then what is door trigger ?, is it different from the door pin switch?, I am also trying to find

my door pin switch to positive or negative. Does anybody knows which?

My car is Mercedes Class 280, 1997 , information regaring above will be highly appreciated.

Same thing, just different terminologie.

Door Trigger

brn/gry, brn/gry/yel

pins or fact. sec.

Some call it door trigger, some call em door pins

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Oh, ok I got it. Thank you.

Hi, I have just unpluged the electric harness from the Key cylinder. There are 7 coloured wires and I can not figure out which one is for Starter wire.

There are two RED wires, one RED / White, Yellow/White,Violet, WHITE/ Green, GREEN/ Whie.

Can anyone identify which one goes to Strater motor? My car is Mercedes C280, Year 1997.

I am trying to put the R/Starter.

Thanks for your help and have a happy new year!!

the starter wire will only register 12volts during crank

all the rest will register 12volts on ignition, accessory or constant

it is the purple (violet) wire

Thank you 05gt!! for the info, appreciated your help.

Have a happy new year!!

HI Guys,

I am trying to locate the factory transponder receiver module in my Mercedes C280 to connect DEI 556U(not using the antena).

Does anyone know where I can find the module?

Thank you for your feed back, highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, I am trying to install remote start in my Mercedes c280(1997). I have tried three method of locking the doors:

1. With keyless(switch blade) locking the doors, I started the engine-as soon as I turn on the ingnition the locks are unclocked automatically.

2. Inside the car(same as above), locking the car with central locking button on the dash panel and start the car, no unlocks and start.

3. With the physical key locking, start the car-unlocks automatically-same as #1 above.

It seems to me that if I use my original factory made keyless to lock, then remote start my car it will be unlocked. Is there any way that I can reconnect the keyless so that it will lock as if I used the central locking button ?

Any help will be highly appreciated.

they design the MB's so you cannot lock your keys in the car... you cannot lock the doors with the car running... i know with my 2000 E55 i had to lock the doors, start the car and then exit via the back door in order to have it running and locked, ( i had to start it from the back seat by leaning over the seat, quite a PITA )

i cant remember if my C280 had the same problem/issue.... i dont know that you will get it to do what you want it to.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

their should be a keysence wire that would take care of that

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over 20 years of experience in the 12 volt industry

Hi Guys, Thank you for letting me know the status. I do not konw but somehow I will connect the wires to the central locking button on the dash and not using the Original keyless.

Hi guys,

I have opened up the driver side door pannel to make sure the wires are the same in the drivers's kick pannel, also I checked the same at the back of trunk lid and found that there are 3 wires, blue, black and brown that are connected to the key cylinders.

With digital meter, I probe the blue wire and shows Positive 11.70V for locking and unlocking, I then checked black wire and it shows 11.60V or so for locking and unlocking.

I am confused, it should show zero voltage either locking or unlocking but my wires shows constant 12 volts all the time. Am I doing something wrong ?

My car is Mercedes C280(W202), 1997.My car is equipped with original keyless with switch blade key

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

i checked a tech sheet and it said they were neg trigger .i would take a fuse holder with a 5amp fuse in it and touch one of the wires with one end of the fuse holder and the other side to ground if locks or unlocks u know they r neg trig.if it blows the fuse they r probably pos trig.or could need actuators in one door

Operates with normal one second ground pulse. These wires also trigger a factory starter kill on the base model cars w/o alarm system. Ignition controlled locking will cause a no-start problem because of this. The PURPLE / brown wire at the door lock pump located in right rear corner of trunk must be grounded for vehicle to start. There is also a single WHITE/ green wire at the dash mounted door lock switch that does not engage the starter kill. It can be located along the passenger side of the console under carpet. Type E but 1 second pulse will operate. May not operate locks at all times - test before connecting.

how are you testing the wires? are you using the remote or door lock switch? sometimes they require the key to be turned in the outside cylinder to trigger the door lock wires.

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There are 10 types of people in the world, ones that understand binary and ones that dont.

infinkc, there are Two female connectors connected to the main vacum pump located in the rear corner of trunk.

Smaller connector has 3 wires :Brown Grey/Blue Yellow/BlackBlue

Bigger connector has 7wires:Brown BROWN / Brown BROWN / Brown BROWN / Red Grey/Green WHITE/ Black Yellow / YELLOW Blue

I don't see purple Brown wire at the pump, all the wires above are connected to the original manufactured keyless module. Ther are too many wires from that module but some go to the trunk lid key cylinder, drivers key cylinder, central locking button on the center of dash. The method of probing wires are;

1. Open the back of carpeted trunk lid, found the key cylinder and found 3 wires, one is brown(ground), Blue and black, I have tested each wire(Blue, black) by probing plus and ground to the chasis, then with keyless switch blade lock and unlock.Both wires showed constant voltage for lock and unlock

2. I did the same for the front driver side door(there are same color of wires as in the trunk lid), result is the same as #1 above.

Should I check the wires between the keyless module and the main pump(rear corner in the trunk)? to get zero voltage when locking?

Any info will be greatly appreciated, thanks guys

Hi guys, I have been doing research on door locks, checking with DOOR LOCK on left, in the car security and relays as well. What's confusing with me is that my car does not seem to correspond with the diagram shown in the relay shown in the vacum for mercedes.

If my car correspond to single polarity that changes locks, unlocks then I have no problem but my car has Black wire for Lock(-) and Blue for Unlock(-), How should I connect these wires to the 451M? Should I cut either black or blue wires from the car and connect the end to which wires of 451M ?

My car is C280(W202), 1997 with switchbalde key

Thank you guys for any help in advance

Why are you using the 451M? Isn't your doorlocks NEGATIVE Pulse?

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

MO,yes it is negative pulse. In the DOOR LOCK on left in the Car Security there is diagram for vacum pump(not for the single polarity) it says that either 451M or two relays are needed.

Are you saying that i do not need 451M or relays ?, the reason for choosing 451M is that it may be easier and compact(small) in size.

thanks for your advise

I don't do many 280's, but i thight they were negative pulse too. No relay should be needed...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Well, i am confused with the relay diagram in the door lock on the left in the car security................I see the relay diagarms in there.

So, All I have to do is to take the both lock(-) and unlock(-) wires from the car connected to the viper brain without relays or 451M, I just want to make sure that I will not short anyting.

Thanks for your advise, guys

you can wire up that 451m to work with negative pulse door locks. although the brain comes with the features of locking and unlocking without the use of the 451, in some cases it needs the relay. if, in your case, the wiring diagram calls for the 451, I would use it. theres nothing to wiring it up and making it work, just three wires.

Hi guys, I am trying to install viper 560XV in my mercedes C280(W202), 1997 and I have been checking whether or not to connect all four doors to the brain or not.

I have found one such connection in the bulldog site and the diagram showing

all connecting with diodes with each connection, is this right ? my door pin switch is negatives and when each door opens, the dome lights up.

I am not professional and I need exact diagram, please help.

Thank you so much for your help!!

MERCEDES BENZ, C 280, 1997, Door Trigger
Brn/gry at pass. front pin catches both front doors. Brn/gry/yel picks up rear doors. Also found as BROWN / pink at pin.

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Thanks for the diagram showing colours of wires for the door pins, what I am not sure about is how to connect these wires to the brain(primary harness(H1).

The input wire of the brain is GREEN for the minus door trigger, How do I connect this wire to the wires from the door trigger wires from the car ? no diodes or should I put one for each wire coming from the pin switch to this green wire?

Should i solder each diode to each wire of the door pin before connecting to the green wire?

I do appreciate for your great help, thanks

You should solder a diode to each door pin wire, with the band side facing the door pin..Connect the green wire to the other side (non-band) of both diodes...

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Cary
German Auto Pros

nuugen, thanks for your direction.

I just absolutely make sure what I am doing right or not, so the diagram for connecting each diode looks like this ?

https://64.85.6.129/extrainfo/diagrams/17044_C-280_(-)%20NEGATIVE%20DOOR%20PIN%20ISOLATION%20CIRCUIT.pdf

Again, appreciated so much for your help

Hi guys, I am installing the viper 560xv in my Mercedes C280(W202),1997 and I got stuck with the selection of wether to switch from negative to positive for the wire that goes to H 1/2 in the main harness of 12 pins(Viper brain).

I have no idea if the parking light circuit that draws 10 amps or more, if more then I should switch to negative. I have recently changed the head light unit from halogen light unit to xenon head lamp unit that requires more than 10amps fuse so I changed the fuse from original 7.5 amps to 15 amps.

Does changing the fuses from 7.5amps to 15 amps affect this light circuit that draws more than 10 amps? if so, I should chnage the internal jumper to (-) light flash ?

I am confused, any help will be greatly appreciated.

One thing that concerns me is the fact you switched the 7.5 to 15. Are you still using the original headlamp switch to turn on the xenon headlamps? It would appear so if you had to up the amperage of the fuse. It would have been ideal to use a relay to supply the power to the new headlights and use the switch to turn the relay on. As for the viper I would use a relay and negative trigger to be safe since you are unsure of the draw on the circuit.

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I may be lost but I am making good time.

Thanks guys, it sounds like safe to use the relay. what type of relay diagram should I use ? I checked the "Light flash" on the left under car security and found couple of wiring diagram.

Should i use this BASIC LIGHT FLASH, that is 87&85=fused 12v+ and 86 to (-)alarm light flash output, 30=positive parking lamp wire(at the light switch) Or TWO WIRE LIGHT FLASH DIAGRAM??

My head lamp wire shows positive(+), checked with DMM

As for the headlamp(HID), I just changed from halogen to exnon(Bosch oem) head lamp unit(not just the bulb, complete assembly) and no relay. so far it is working

Thank you again for your professional advise

I am still figuring out the relay diagram for this connection to H1/2, mine is viper560vx but i checked the site at Bulldog to see if I can get some usueful info and it says that this vehcle requires TWO extra #775 relay because this vehicle has dual (+) parking light output:

https://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/newsite/pictures/instdiagrams/37.jpg

My question is:

1. Becasue I changed the headlamp unit to Exenon and changed the fuse from 7.5amps to 15 amps, it may be safer to switch the jumper from (+) to (-) at the brain

then the relay(s) if required two, which diagrams should i use?, should I use the diagram of the relay as NEGATIVE eventhough the vehicle wire is positive?

IF positive, the diagram as shown in the bulldog#775 correct?

I am confused and I do not want to damage to the brain to the circuit.

Pls help!!

your headlights shouldn't matter. your only using the alarm to trigger the parking lamps.. you can use + or - out of the brain just wire your relays accordingly...

Thanks for the reply, serialthrlla

So, what you are saying is ignore the polarity of my headlamp wire at the switch whether it is positive or negative, if I change the jumper to negative at the brain then I should wire the rely diagram as follows?

#1 relay:

Pin #85 & 30 go to +12V constant with fuse30amps Pin#86 to the brain Pin#87 to either right or left of vehicles' parking lite wire at the switch

#2 relay:

Pin#87&85 go to +12V constant with fuse 30amps Pin#86 to the brain Pin#30 to either right or left of vehicle's parking lite wire at the switch

Am I close ??Thanks again

bobk, I have already checked the wire at the back of light switch, its gray at positive and I know the default setting at the jumper of the brain is positive so normally all I have to do is nothing, just connect the H1/2 to this wire BUT

1. I have changed the headlight lamp unit as assembly from original halogen with 7.5amp fuse to exnon headlight lamp unit(Bosch-oem) as assembly with 15amps fuse-why, becase with 7.5amp fuse will not lite up the exnon

2. according to the Viper 560XV manual for this H1/2, it says that parkking lite circuit that draws 10 amps or more, the internal jumper must be switched to a (-) lite flash output

3. I understand from the bulldog site this this vehicle is DUAL parking light output

Under this circumstances, I have to switch the jumper switch to (-) at the brain and I have to use two rely but I do not know this 2 relays' exact diagraming-negative? then the pin assignment??

Am i really confused, messed up ?, highly appreciated for your assistance.

Ok, I messed up with headlamp to PARKING LIGHT and that I should forget about the headlamp, and to be safe that parking light draws more than 10AMPs then I use (-) at the brain and put to a rely with fuse.

In this case, the parking light wire shows positive connecting to the rely, the wiring at the rely will be PIN#86 go to the H1/2(white wire), PIN#87 go to Paking lite wire and PIn#30 go to the 12V constant with fuse. Is this right ?87a is not use and 85 to the ground

Am I still messed up, sorry for bothering you guys but I really appreciated for your help!!

Hmmm, Thanks guys and I take it as if H1/2(Viper brain) white wire is a -(negative) then the relay must be such that #1 relay daigram will be 85&30 go to 12Vconstant and #2 realy will be 87&85 go to +12V constant with fuse eventhough the parking lite wire shows +.

May be I should ignore the polarity of the parking lite wire from the car.

Thank you so much guys for feeding me all the info, appreciated so much.

bobk, thanks so much for our help!!, appreciated so much

Your vehicle has a split park light system.find gray/white(+)and gray(+)at headlight switch which are positive leave your park light setting in alarm to +ve ,use two 6amp diodes with band side facing oem wires and connect to each wire.

desh187, thanks. This is new to me. no use of relay will make it easy for connection to H 1/2 wire. Thanks again!!

I just thought that does 6amp diodes carry this kind of load, will it be safe and not burn or anything ?, I read something similar in this car security for search " parking light relay".

Iwould it be more reliable to use the relay(s) ?

Anyway, i have not got the 6 amps diodes yet., I am sitll wondering

Sorry to bother you guys again but would the following works ?

I understand that this car has a split park light system that gray/white(+)and gray(+)at headlight switch.

Wtih double relay to isolate the two wires mentioned above: #1 relay

86->(-) from Alrm(H1/2)

87->(+)signal either gray/white or gray

85&30->+12v fused

#2 realy is the same as above with #2 86 goes to alarm(H1/2) and 87 goes to either gary/white or gary

Does this look fine?

I am trying to understand a bit of relay system and to be safe. Thanks again once more.

bobk, thaks a lot for your advise. I have decided to take one relay with two 6amp diodes.

I do really appreciated for your help, and thank you again!!

Hi, earlier I have I asked about positive light flash connection to my car and I have tried two diodes with one relay but it does not work, so I have decided to use TWO relays connected to my car(C280-1997) with viper 560xv.

I understand that my car has two split positive wires, (+)Gray and Gray/White(+) and I have tested them to be correct. The question is Which Diagram is correct as outline below ???

DIAGRAM-1

87->+Signal from Light flash 87->+Signal from Light flash

86->to Alarm+ 85->Ground 85-> Ground

30->+12V 30->+12V

DIAGRAM-2

87->+Signal from Light flash 87->+12v

86->to Alarm+ 85->Ground 85->Ground

30->+12V 30->+Signal from light flash

#86 pin from two relays are connected together go to H1/2(White wire

Any help will be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Anyone help me which diagram below is correct ?

Diagram 1

87( to Parking light flash #1)

86 (From +Alarm) 85( to Ground)

30 (to +12v)

87( to Parking light flash #2)

86 From +Alarm 85 to Ground

30 to +12v

Diagram 2

87( to Parking light flash #1)

86 (From +Alarm) 85( to Ground)

30 to (+12v)

87(+12v)

86 From +Alarm 85 to Ground

30(to parking light flash #2)

Thanks in advace for all of your help

you have mentioned that you used two diodes and a relay.
you do not need a relay as long as you have a Positive park light output from the alarm module.all you have to use is two 6 amp diodes with band side facing cars park light wires.

Hi gus, I have been trying to connect one of 4 wires from remote harness to the 2nd acc at the ignition. The 2nd acc is positive and the orange wire from the remote harness is Negative so I need to put a relay but I do not know if the relay wiring between the 2nd acc wire and the orange wire.

#86 from remote start wire(Orange)-Negative

#87 from 2nd acc ignition wire(Pink/Green)

#85&30 to +12V

I am not sure if this connection is right or not.

The 4-pin remote wires is the one that connected to XCRS 500M

The car is C280(W202), 1997.

Thank you in advace for your any help.