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Ok I installed door locks, they work perfect with diodes/relays in place. I do know that the diodes I am using have a 0.7 voltage drop across them. Now I need these diodes so the system doesn't short and blow fuses. My question would be is there a way to get around the voltage drop. From what I have been reading it seems like the answer would be a 12volt Zener Diode. That way it will keep the 12v, constent and break down anything go the opposite way. Would this be correct thinking??

Thanks for the help..

1n4001 if its a 1 amp diode

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

Can't really get around the diode drop; if it's really a problem losing the 0.7V, you might try working a relay in there somehow, depending on what you need to do.
Don't think a 12V zener will do what you need it to do-

Alright, then perhaps I just got the wrong impression of what the Zener diode is/does. Thanks for the help. I guess I can live with the 0.7v drop.

One more question for you guys though:

I was working on locks and generally the way I wired it up is: I have the switches Unlock & Lock which provide power to the actuator. I have unlock wired to make the actuator go up and lock to make it go down. Well right off the switch I have a diode that allows the power to go from switch to actuator. Now everytime I hit the unlock or lock button the diode smokes a bit, until it eventually burns out. Now I figured I need a resistor to lesses the load on the diode. Question is how much resistance will I need? Or is this the best way to even go about it.

Power source is: approx. 12V
Diodes: 1N4001 1amp 12v

Thanks for the help..

Well I have an alarm/remote keyless entry/remote start/etc...

Originally I didn't have power windows or locks. I had the installer put in power locks and I did the power windows myself. Well the alarm company installed the locks and ran to wires from the alarm module to the actuators. I figured the easiest thing to do would be to run a wire from my switch right into their corresponding wire. The hole operation worked until I either held down the unlock or lock button and it work burn the diode and stop working. Or after a while of just constently pushing the lock and unlock button it burned out.

Here is a basic wiring diagram, now don't laugh I made it in a hurry. The reason I have diodes there is that I will also have to more wires running between the already installed lines going to the actuators so I can connect both sides. (i.e. hit the unlock on the drivers side and it will unlock the passenger side)

Diagram:

hmm my last post didn't seem to go through so I have to retype...

If I am understanding correctly you are telling me to put diodes on the lines running from the alarm module to the actuators before they branch off to go to the switches. Now that makes sense to me to protect the alarm module from any current going back. However, that was the first thing I tried, and I ended up having to take the diodes back out. With those diodes in place it caused my alarm remote not to work in locking or unlocking the doors. With no diodes in place there the remote worked fine.

If this is not what you are talking about could you help me to understand then...

Thanks for the help, and more ideas are welcome, I will try it all....

Not really sure what your diagram is showing; are the unlock and lock wires coming from the alarm module (going to the actuators) reversing polarity to do the lock and unlock operation? I assume the two wires connected to the actuator go to the motor and lock and unlock when it gets power in one direction or the other.

The alarm modules I've usually seen put out a low current pulse to control relays, rather than directly driving the actuators; is the module you have driving them directly?

The diodes usually are used for low current signal isolation, but it looks like you have them wired up directly driving the actuators, which most likely is beyond the 1A rating of the diodes.
How are those switches configured (what gets connected to 12V and ground when locking, and when unlocking)?

Not sure i understand! does the alarm mod have relays biult in to controll the locks? If not, you need them. If so, the wires should rest at ground which means you cant just supply power to them. If the relays are onboard you will need another set of relays to 5 wire the motor legs. You are causing a direct short thus frying diodes, which shouldn't be needed to begin with. Please explain....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

Yeah, not sure exactly what the outputs from the alarm module are doing; if they're reversing polarity and one side or the other always at ground, the diode would be seeing a full 12V across it.
Thing is, if that's the case, I would have expected the diode to blow pretty much instantly, which apparently isn't happening. Sounds like the diodes are being called on to pass the full actuator current, which they probably can't handle.
It really should be worked out to control it with relays rather than diodes for isolation, but I'm fuzzy about what's involved here, so I don't know what'd be needed.
Maybe with more details on what's happening with the alarm module outputs and the switch..

Something like this is probably what you want to do-
5 wire alternating 12V positive door lock relay configuration

May have to modify it as needed depending on just what your alarm module outputs and switch outputs are doing-

the post will work perfect that daul sport posted. but the only question i have is that this is an install that did not have factory power locks and windows and the schematic on the first page is of a aftermarket switch or relay? and does it rest at ground? that is the only way the 5 wire relay setup will work. if it rest at ground and if not you need to get on that will or use another 5 wire setup up there too. as for the alarm it really dont matter as long as its a neg pulse from it ,your all set and if not use a relay to revese the polarity. good luck

that sound right guys huh? rewire it and do it right the first time.

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
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alotofhighs

I think his schematic was for switches, not a relay, but I'm not sure, since the the diagram doesn't show the contacts.
That 12volt relay diagram looks like a nice way to do it, without involving any diode losses.

"More input Stephanie-" Johnny 5 posted_image

ya that's how most factory setups work but there just in the design of the switch. i personnaly wouldn't do it any other way but thats me. oh well. and if they are switches i really cant tell by that diag. whats really going on. no offence you did better than i can but using the 5 wire at the acuators and the the relay setup for the actuators/reverse polarity thats righ under the thread from dual sport up at the switch or whatever that could be anything in the lines of a toggle. its a wrap from there. i just wanted to clarifiy that because i said in the other post to use a 5 wire setup at the switch but it more partical to use the actuator/reverse polarity relay setup. hope that helps.

hey dualsport merry christmas, ho ho ho. and everyone else too.

Merry Christmas right back at ya! posted_image

I figured he'd want the doors to unlock and lock together, but the diagram does seem to show two separate outputs, so maybe his alarm module has separate driver side and passenger side door lock controls, for the dual stage unlocking feature.

ya were speculating on what exactly he has for the alarm module and how his operates. and i guess untill he gives some more info then were blowing smoke. snowman hasn't wrote a post on this page yet! where ya at man are you following this?

and ya i figured the same. i would want them to lock/unlock with eachother but thats not how its setup.