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alert 450R / autoalarmpro 4500RM

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=69613
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 7:21 PM


Topic: alert 450R / autoalarmpro 4500RM

Posted By: quisman
Subject: alert 450R / autoalarmpro 4500RM
Date Posted: December 30, 2005 at 9:38 PM

hey all,

I'm pretty much stumped here...perhaps you all could help me out.

I'm installing a alert 450R (autoalarmpro 4500RM) r/s setup into my: 2003 Hyundai Accent GL (not keyless) manual tranny.  I have everything wired up to the best of my knowledge but it seems as though the system will not accept any input....like there's still an interuption. 

I spoke w/ a rep from alert and he said I need to have a diode setup in my brake system.  I thought the braking system was one of the easiest parts of the r/s installation ?  He said it is in my instruction manual.....my catch is autoalarmpro gave me modified directions so I only have their text to go buy.  Does anyone have a diagram for the Alert 450R.  Their website only has the basic PDF of getting it up and running.

For those of you who know the system here is what is happening:   To activate for manual tranny:  I run the car 4 times for 3+ seconds per cycle, then leave the car running and put it into neutral and pull the ebrake.  Now I have to press the * on the transmitter and I should see my LED blink 3x.  I can then pull the key and the car should remain running.  I never get the LED to blink so I'm assuming there is something interupting the transmission from teh keypad.

My second part is tach sense:  I have to cycle the ignition 3x then press the program button 10x and hold until I hear 5 short and one long chirp from the horn.  Then I should be able to hold the unlock and lock button together on the transmitter and move on.. But my LED blinks constantly after the horn chirps and I can only stop it if I remove the r/s from potential.  I noticed the manual says constant blink is passive disarm.

any ideas ?   Thanks all !




Replies:

Posted By: rdlybeck
Date Posted: January 01, 2006 at 7:29 PM

I think I can help you.  This link has pics and instruction manual.  Because you have manual transmission, you need to connect the BROWN / red wire from system to both your 12volt brake pedel wire and handbrake wire.  You need to diode isolate each wire.  Also if your handbrake wire shows 0 volts when at rest you need a relay.  If it shows 12 volts at rest you do not need a relay. 

https://alertautomotive.com/manuals/450AlertInstallManualWeb.pdf

email me if this link doesn't work.  ryanlybeck@aol.com



-------------
Ryan Lybeck
"Wiring diagrams are nice but still double check with DMM"!




Posted By: rdlybeck
Date Posted: January 01, 2006 at 7:34 PM

As for the programming goes, you have to first make sure you have all wiring correct.  autoalarmpro pre wires for your car and wants you using t-taps.  As I'm sure you know this is not recommended.  You need to follow the installation instructions I gave you and double check each wire and connection they have made and then check the wires in your car.  After every wire is connected that needs to be you should be able to program your system.  Included in the link I sent you is the programing directions at the end.

Hope this helps, I love the Alert systems.



-------------
Ryan Lybeck
"Wiring diagrams are nice but still double check with DMM"!




Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 8:35 AM

Hey all,

Thanks so much for the info.  My isp has been down for 3 days, so i finally got to check the posts at work.  I have all my wiring hooked up but have no relay or diode in the brake setup.  So that probably explains why I cannot program.  I'll post the hopefully good news tonight.

thanks again.





Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 8:43 AM
okay, definitely need diodes per the manual.  Thanks guys.  I should be running tonight. My question is, why didn't they include this information in the instructions posted_image .   o well, everyone makes mistakes.




Posted By: rdlybeck
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 3:13 PM
Autoalarmpro made a mistake.  Since they change the wiring on the system they don't send you the original wiring instructions.  Learn from this and don't buy from them again, mainly because they don't have the vehicle there its easy to make mistakes since every car is a little different.  But I hope the manuals I included in previous post help you get it working right.

-------------
Ryan Lybeck
"Wiring diagrams are nice but still double check with DMM"!




Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 05, 2006 at 6:37 AM

I took a quick look at it last night before dark...and there are some DEFINITE differences.

I can see i'm going to pretty much have to re-wire this myself posted_image    i'll post back after i'm less cranky !





Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 5:30 PM

Okay, here's my update.

I'm pretty much heartbroken for thinking I had a clue how to do this.  I cannot seem to get the tach sense to work still.  But the system does seem to be acting differently.  I now have the e-brake and foot brake into a diode setup using 2  1N4001 diodes. 

During the tach learning, the system does not confirm the learning...as though I have an incorrect wire.

My tach voltage is reading around 50VAC, which is odd to me, but I have a RPM mode on my DMM and it fluctuates with the acclerator...also this is is coming from a gray wire up near the gauge cluster.  Should I try another wire ?  Autoalarm pro says nothing about the wire being gray, but every forum here does.

Secondly, I have no parking light output.  Even if I wire to just one side of the light system.  I can hear the relay in the module, but no lights.  That confuses me also.  But the wires I have hooked up show +12VDC when I turn on the parking lights manually.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks all.





Posted By: rdlybeck
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 8:22 PM

https://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=19010&MakeID=21

Use this link to check where you are making your wire connections.  You need to check your tach wire and make sure you are using the right one.  You should get about between 1-6volts AC. 

Your vehicle has two parking light wires that you will need two relays to make work.  one relay on each wire. 

What is your vehicle doing right now when you try it?  Does it start?  You could also have a transponder system that needs bypassing if your vehicle was made in Canada.



-------------
Ryan Lybeck
"Wiring diagrams are nice but still double check with DMM"!




Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 8:40 PM

I knew I would get a reply from you Ryan.  Thank You :-)

As of right now I did get passed the first issue of the system just blinking at me and looking stupid.

I don't however have any relays setup to the parking lights, though that shouldn't create any start issues.  I thought I would be home free because the alert has a built in relay...but probably only as a trigger.  On the good side, I did grab a couple relays just in case I would need them, so i'll wire them up next.

But my main concern right now is why won't the damn thing program !  I'm getting way more than 6 volts on the tach wire i'm using right now....though it is a gray wire.  The other grey i checked didn't have potential on it.  It looks as though the unit WILL NOT operate until it has learned a tach sense.  So I gotta play w/ 324983498 grey wires till I find 1 to 6 volts.

If you know the alert system....to program a tach sense you have to run the ign on and off 3x then leave in off position then press vallet button 10x and hold until 5 horn chirps then you press the unlock and lock keypad together 2x and the horn should chirp and led blinks.  Then you start the car and hold the vallet button and it will alert you that it has learned.  I get to the keypad part and then after I start the car I have nothing when I hold the vallet button.  Which means tach sense failed to learn.  What pisses me off is that I used the RPM setting on my DMM and it reads w/ the engine.  Before I rip into more grey wires, could it be somethign else ?

Lastly, I don't think it's a canadian car because I had my SM700 millenium starter hooked up and it would start the car.  I'm pretty sure it was using that same tach wire too.  I never did get to finish setting it up though because It had a bad transistor in the parking setup.





Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 9:33 PM
on another note, will this work for my parking light setup ?
posted_image




Posted By: rdlybeck
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 10:03 AM

Ok, on another wireing CD I have it says your tach wire should be brown or blue at the ignition coil.  Test these at any coil and find the one that has 1-6volts AC.  Run your tach through the firewall and that should fix the tach learning. 

The relay you show is what I was thinking for parking lights, and that is something you can do after, it wont effect your starting. 

WIRE WIRE COLOR LOCATION

12V CONSTANT WIRE RED Ignition harness

12V IGNITION WIRE GREEN Ignition harness

12V ACCESSORY WIRE YELLOW Ignition harness

SECOND ACCESSORY WIRE BLUE Ignition harness

STARTER WIRE WHITE Ignition harness

POWER DOOR LOCK (-) YELLOW At Module Under Dash To The Left Of The

Steering Column

POWER DOOR UNLOCK (-) BLUE At Module Under Dash To The Left Of The

Steering Column

PARKING LIGHTS (+) GREEN/ ORANGE AND GREEN/ BLACK Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel

PARKING LIGHTS (-) GREEN Harness At Steering Column

DOOR TRIGGER/ DOMELIGHT

SUPERVISION (-)

GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel

TRUNK TRIGGER (-) GREEN/ ORANGE Harness In Driver’s Kick Panel

TACHOMETER WIRE BROWN or BLUE At Ignition Coil

BRAKE WIRE (+) PINK/BLACK Harness At Brake Pedal Switch

HORN TRIGGER (-) BLUE/ORANGE Harness At Steering Column

LEFT FRONT WINDOW UP BLUE At Driver Window Motor Inside Door

LEFT FRONT WINDOW DOWN GREEN At Driver Window Motor Inside Door

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW UP GRAY Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT FRONT WINDOW DOWN ORANGE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door

LEFT REAR WINDOW UP BLACK Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door

LEFT REAR WINDOW DOWN GREEN Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT REAR WINDOW UP WHITE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door

RIGHT REAR WINDOW DOWN BLUE Harness In Driver’s Kick From Driver Door



-------------
Ryan Lybeck
"Wiring diagrams are nice but still double check with DMM"!




Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 11:25 AM

Hey man, THANKS ! ! !

I have no doubt that's the problem.  Hopefully I'll be up and rolling tonight.  I'll post tonight and see what's going on.  Well I can safely say that I probably won't buy another autoalarmpro system after just the simple problem of them not telling me to use a diode/relay setup even it's specific to my car or not.

Thanks again for you help.





Posted By: quisman
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 7:16 PM

YAY, finally got the pig working.  Looks like the DMM i was using didn't have the resolution to get that low....so I snagged one from work and found the wire in no time.  I still have a few issues to work out.

When the car is running, remote start or not....i seem to have a leak.  My E-brake light on the dash is very slightly illuminated.  I have the ebrake and foot brake running thru 2 seperate 1N4001's into one input.  But when I press the foot brake with ebrake down, the light goes out completely.  So my guess is there is a little leak from the ebrake(+12V when down) that the foot brake takes away when pressed.  So can I just get away with putting a resistor in series with the ebrake diode ?

Now just gotta get the parkin lights relayed and i'll be set.






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