voltage for a tach wire
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=69911
Printed Date: April 20, 2024 at 1:52 AM
Topic: voltage for a tach wire
Posted By: shott8283
Subject: voltage for a tach wire
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 12:23 AM
correct me if im wrong... if im fishing for a tach wire.. my DMM should be set to VAC ,, around 200ish (thats the smallest mine goes for VAC) and the tach wire should read 1v at idle and around 6v when the rpms raise..in ration?
Replies:
Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 2:22 AM
depends on vehicle but should read nearer the 5 at idle
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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power
Posted By: shott8283
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 10:40 AM
alright thanks...
Posted By: shott8283
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 2:12 PM
another question... what kind of DMM's you guys use? something thatll give me that kind of lower voltage sensitivty.. i got 2 bumass radiohack ones and backups and a really nice craftsman one... mainly b/c all my tools are craftsman...handtools atleast
Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 6:47 PM
i use a pocket size carlo gavazzi
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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power
Posted By: xtremca2003
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 9:20 PM
Your meter should go down to lower than 200 vac. Home outlets run 120vac so it would be useless to sell meters that could only meter 200vac and up. Recheck your DMM and see if it has a range button to adjust it.
ps is it digital or analog? 1-8vac for tach.
Chris
Posted By: shott8283
Date Posted: January 03, 2006 at 9:50 PM
digital... ill check again when im back in the shop thanks
Posted By: adroga
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 12:11 AM
when i tested my tach it started at 30 VAC and went up to 50 with higher rpms..
is this the wrong one?
Posted By: xtremca2003
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 12:33 AM
That does not seem correct. Voltage that high would make the unit shut down due to the over rev protection. You may have posted this elsewhere but what kind of car and year is it? Also what brand remote start are you using.
chris
Posted By: ziggyb222
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 9:23 AM
Those readings a probably accurate but might have been on the wrong scale on the DMM.. Just a thought
Posted By: adroga
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 9:54 AM
Its a 93 maxima with a prostart 2 way starter.
The DMM is on the right scale, <200 VAC and it show 12 volts when turned to VDC.
thx
Posted By: adroga
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 11:13 AM
ok.. will look into that .. thanks
Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 3:02 PM
Those cheap $20 meters will not show tach readings correct. I used to have a $20 Sears meter and it would work great on DC wires but not on low (less than 10) voltage AC wiring.
If you want a good meter, get a Fluke. Should be around $100 or so. I think they sell them at Sears too.
Posted By: concepts99
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 8:21 PM
Some cars have individual coils, if this is true, then the change in RPM will read very little on the digital meter .. even at idle. For older cars, the reading will be a lot higher. -------------
Posted By: adroga
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 9:05 PM
I am sure that the place where my tach signal is coming from is the same location as the previous starter was using. When I bought this car it had a starter installed, but it didnt work, so I had to undo everything.
In my install manual, it says that it is capable of adapting to a wide variety of tach signals...
Everything looks ok, I just cant seem to enter program mode now...
Posted By: adroga
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 10:04 PM
I dont think its an alternator signal as its connected to a wires harness near the distributor.
I need to find another tach source...
Posted By: shott8283
Date Posted: January 04, 2006 at 10:28 PM
well the wire description said to use a yellow/white wire on the diagnostic connector.. not the OBDII connector..just the one for the KIA tech computer uses... what baffles me is that i hooked it up like it said.. worked great for a weak..then the heater blower motor shorted out and burnt up and then it was parked after that..i was the next person to try the RS and the RS diagnostic flashes through the park lights (7 flashes.. AST ultrastart 1270 auto) said that it was tach lock out..didnt even try to start...modual kicked on (u can hear it..small click sound) and the park lights come on.. then the dash lights come on.. then 7 flashes.. which is confusing me b/c it pretty much means its not picking up a tach signal now... it was correctly tach learned when the initial install was done...and tested multiple times and the basic RS worked great (thats when i found out the lock arm RS set off of alarm problem) but i had to do some homework and finsh the install the next weekend b/c of the -rs sets off alarm- problem... all i had to do is feed 12vdc to the keysense wire and it disables the factoy alarm without having to unlock the truck...between that time that blower motor burnt up .. and from what i hear from the owner was blowing ashes and crap into the cab and smoked HELLA bad... i even reinstalled the RS completley trip checked the wiring.. reset the modual NUMEROUS times and after evertime tachlearned it over and over agian...unfortunatly i didnt (shame on me) meter out the tach wire during the first install..just hooked itup and it worked. so i dont know the originall metering of that wire theroy one - that burn up of the blower motor could have melted a few wires and could have messed up the wire feed from the diag con. from where i slave off of the tach feed. .. hopeing... but not realyl b/c know kia... they prolly just threw in a new blower moter assy. and called it a day and charged a buttload of money theroy 2 - along with the burn up of the blower motor... it could have..possible shorted out the rs unit... the two main 12vdc power wires for the barin are fused at 30amps... and neither fuzes were blown.... SON OF A BITCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i just checked that harness ... the damn fuse is blown for one of the main power wires... god... i knew i shouldnt have worked more then 13 hrs that day... damn it damn it damn it guess im a litte more rusty that i thought damn... man this sucks..manual said that 12vdc power wire supplies.. supplies 12vdc for ACC ops and starter output... MAN that makes sense now...ofcourse its gonna let me know that it doesnt have a tach signal... it TRIED to start.. and it didnt... so it letting me know that the motor isnt running and not getting the tach signal its saposed to... ill pay anyone 100 bux to bash my head it with a lead pipe for being to retarded , not thikning..and waisting all of your time ,, and energy for typing responses ... i hold my head down in shame
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