1997 Grand Cherokee, remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=70299
Printed Date: September 13, 2025 at 7:46 AM
Topic: 1997 Grand Cherokee, remote start
Posted By: dale97jgc
Subject: 1997 Grand Cherokee, remote start
Date Posted: January 07, 2006 at 10:08 PM
I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I installed an Airwolf 20096 Remote Starter with a DEI 455T interface module. The problem I'm having, though, is that I can't get the remote to program properly. When I plug in the brain, the doors lock a couple of times, the horn honks a few times, and the lights flash. When I put the dip switch on and hold the valet switch down for four secs, the lights flash and the dash buzzer chirps once, telling me that it learned the voltage sense. Everything seems to work except for the remote. When I do try to program the remote (by opening the door and turning the key ON, and holding down the two buttons on the remote), the lights flash inside once, and the remote chirps (but doesn't sing the melody like it is supposed to). After that, the remote won't do anything. It won't even show the status of the vehicle or show a signal strength. I did have problems locating a door trigger to hook up to the relay that I connected to the 455T, but settled on using the light under the dash. Since I have two ACC wires, I connected IGN2 to the ACC (BLACK/ orange) wire, and IGN3 via relay to the second ACC (RED / black) wire (it actually keeps +12V when in the key is in the ACC position). As far as I know, I should have everything wired up correctly. Help please, anybody!
Replies:
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 2:04 PM
Okay, I have fixed everything. I don't know why the remote wouldn't program, but when I went out there today it did. I may have a loose connection or something, so I will look into that. Everything works fine now except for the remote start. I have a 2-way LCD remote, and as soon as I put the battery in, it shows the vehicle running, therefore it won't remote start. I was never able to find the tach wire, so I wired it up for voltage sense. I believe it has programmed correctly for voltage sense. I even tried removing the starter-interupt relay to see if that might have been interferring, but that didn't work either. What can be causing the remote to think the vehicle is running already? Thanks for your help.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 3:46 PM
Okay, update number 2. For some reason the brain believes that the engine is running. I tried swapping the brain with another one (I have two systems to install), but that didn't do anything. Everything is wired up correctly, I believe. The only wires I wonder about are the ACC wires (I have the IG 2(ACC)+12V wire conected to pin 85 of two relays, with pin 30 of one going to ACC1, and pin 30 of the other going to ACC2, and a constant +12V going to pins 86 & 87 of both relays) and the voltage sensing wire (I have it connected to a constant +12V wire coming off of a cigarette lighter, it's hot no matter what position the key is in). I do have the IG 3 wire connected to the blue/black wire of the 455T. Is this right? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have to have this back together tonight, whether or not the remote start works, and I would really hate to have to tear the dash apart again to work on it some more. Thanks for your help.
Posted By: another-kelly
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 4:10 PM
did you start the vehicle before teaching it voltage
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 4:12 PM
No, the manual didn't say to start it. It just said to open the door and hood, and then press and the hold the valet switch for four seconds.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 4:14 PM
I wish I knew where the Tach wire is at, because I would use that method instead. It says that it's located at the PCM on the passenger side firewall, but I wasn't up to trying to remove the glove box and everything else needed to get to it.
Posted By: another-kelly
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 4:21 PM
do you have a tach in the cluster? use that. not sure about Airwolf, but DEI will learn tach off an injector (odd colored wire). do you program for voltage or program the started voltage?
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 5:15 PM
No, it is supposed to program the voltage. The non-running voltage is about 11.5 volts, and the running voltage is closer to 14. I wish I knew what was going on with this thing.
Posted By: mlaemers
Date Posted: January 08, 2006 at 7:33 PM
I have the same problem as dale97jgc with my Air Wolf. The remote thinks the engine is running. The error on the remote is "OF ER", I don't know what they mean with that error code,. The manual says "Stop starting failed". I have discovered that if I disconnect Connector 7 from the Air Wolf brain the car will start. This is a bit dangerous because it eliminates the hood open inhibit and the brake signal disconnect. I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lareado and I am using a DEI 455J. I don't seem to have any problems with security bypass. Anyone have any ideas?
-------------
Mike L
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 4:26 PM
My remote is giving the same indication and error. Anyone had this problem before and figured out how to fix it?
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 6:16 PM
I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee with an Airwolf 20096 2-way R/S installed with a DEI 455T bypass module. I have everything working fine, but unfortunately, the remote says that the engine is running already even though it isn't, so it won't start the car. When you do press the start button, it gives and error code that says "Stop Engine Failed". One other member has stated that he has the same exact problem with his 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the same R/S. I just spent over 2 hours on hold with DEI Technical Support when the battery on phone died. Can anyone help us? I've been trying to figure this thing out for three days now. Thanks for your help.
Posted By: catalin capota
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 7:02 PM
Don't you love DEI... come on I know you all do.
Disconnect the tach signal on the alarm and see if that helps. If it does, if the remote doesn't show that the car is running then you didn't connect it in the right place.
If it still shows that it's running with the tach signal disconnect, then there's something wrong with the alarm.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 7:12 PM
I didn't connect the tach, I used the voltage sense method. The tach was too difficult to get to.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 9:08 PM
Okay, DEI Tech Support sucks. I've been on hold for almost 5 hours, and it's actually past their service times, so I'm wondering if I should bother holding any longer. I tried leaving a message on their answering service, but their mailbox is full. Do people have that many problems with DEI products that their tech support can't keep up? Anyways, if they can't help me, hopefully one of you out there can.
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 9:41 PM
| Tach Signal | GRAY/WHITE | AT IGNITION COIL OR PCM * |
------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 10:01 PM
The wiring diagram says that the PCM is located on high on the firewall on the passenger side. I take that to mean somewhere under the dash, right? Or is it located in the engine compartment. If it is under the dash, I don't even know if it will be worth it to try and take out the glove box to try and find it, not when this has a "no-tach" method. That's what I'm using now. I have the the voltage sense wire connected to the +12V that comes off of one of the cigarette lighters that has power to it no matter what position the key is in. Should I suck it up and try connecting it to the tach wire and see if that makes it work?
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 10:04 PM
TACH: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Located On Passenger Rear Of Engine More Reliable than Voltage Sense ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: mlaemers
Date Posted: January 09, 2006 at 11:06 PM
Well I have just waited over 4hours and 8 minutes on hold with DEI. They finally gave up on me and told me to leave a voice mail. I also used voltage sense. I have disconnected each wire from connector 7 one at a time, except for the brake+ wire. I was afraid I wouldn't be able to disconnect the RS if it did start. When I experimented by disconnectcing connector 7 off from the brain, I made sure my key transponder wasn't bypassed. That way it will start and die three times and disconnect. As mentioned in my previous post, disconnecting connector 7 which are all input signals to the brain, allowed the car to start. I tried disconnecting each of my 4 inputs I do use one at a time except for the brake+ signal. I will try to disconnect the brake+ wire tomorrow to see if that starts the car. I don't think it is the absense of a tach signal. If it wasn't present it would just default to the time limit on cranking. It would not prevent a start. It has to be some sort of inhibit signal input on connector 7. I only use Brake+, door trigger-, voltage sense, and parking light . I am not using any other input signals, those wires have been taped up. Maybe there is a sneak path on the brake+ input inhibiting the start. I will install the hood pin sense, after I figure out how to get the remote to stop thinking the car is running and the car actually starts. Does anyone know what the error code OF ER "Stop starting failed" means? Considering the voltage sense wire, when disconnected, didn't start the car, I'm thinking the brain is bad. If so, how do yo get an RMA? They make it impossible to contact them. One other note, I see on Designtech web site they talk about initializing their other RS products. They give no such instructions on the Air Wolf. ------------- Mike L
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 10, 2006 at 6:22 PM
Okay, I connected the green tach wire to the gray/white wire coming off of the coil. Now the Jeep at least attempts to start. It will either engage the starter for about 0.5 sec and then disengage, or it will engage for about 3 secs, but won't start. When I start it with the key, it takes at most about 1.5 sec of cranking to start. Any thoughts on this new issue?
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 10, 2006 at 7:33 PM
I'm tempted to believe that for some reason the fuel pump isn't coming on when the R/S engages, but what would control that? It's the only thing that I can think of that would keep it from starting. I know that it's cranking long enough for it to start.
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 10, 2006 at 8:32 PM
What wires do you have Powered under Remote Start? Did you program TACH correctly? ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 10, 2006 at 8:40 PM
I received the confirmation tone from the remote and the flashing lights when I did the TACH programming, so it should be programmed correctly. I do have the starter interrupt relay installed. And you know what, I redid the wiring on it the other day because they show it connected two different ways in the installation manual, and I wonder if I need to wire it back the way it was. The one diagram has pin 86 tied into the IGN 1 wire in the ignition harness, while the other diagram has the IGN 1 wire from the brain connected to pin 86 of the relay, with nothing connected to the IGN wire in the harness. That could very well be my problem. Let me go and but it back the way I had it the first time (with pin 86 connected to the IGN 1 wire in the harness), and see if that makes it work.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 10, 2006 at 9:55 PM
It is working now! Finally. Sometimes, the R/S will only engage the starter for only a half second before disengaging, but it does eventually start. Now, this weekend, I get to put the same system on my 1996 Accord. This should be a much simpler install since it only has one ACC wire and doesn't require any kind of bypass module. I want to thank everybody that helped me. I wish the voltage sense would have worked. That would have been one less wire to run through the firewall.
Posted By: dale97jgc
Date Posted: January 11, 2006 at 5:19 PM
Okay, it's working, sometimes. Whenever my wife presses the start button, the Jeep will start, and after about running for a second, it will shut down and the remote goes nuts. It doesn't show and error code, but the picture of the door flashes as well as the lights, and the wheels turn. When I press the start button, usually it will start, but everyonce in a while it will do the same thing to me. My wife is getting extremely frustrated with me, so I need to get this thing fixed before she makes me remove it. Any thoughts?
Posted By: mlaemers
Date Posted: January 15, 2006 at 9:15 AM
I got mine working. It was the Tach wire. The voltage sense option simply doesn't work on the Air Wolf. A couple of other items the next installer should be aware of. The First is inconsistant wiring instructions in the manual, the diagrams involved are the dome supervision and the door trigger. In the Dome light diagram is correct. The same diagram under the door trigger section has the wrong polarity wire for the door trigger. Secondly, make sure you use the hood switch, it is very difficult to change the program dip switch after everything is tucked away, the hood switch accomplishes the same programming function. Third, don't use the voltage sense wire. Design Tech has an application note that this is an easier and reliable method. Don't do it, it doesn't work and will take you into hours of diagnostic testing and frustration. Lastly, make sure you use a data module with your install. It is a world of difference with install time and wiring compexity. I bought a DEI 455J on Ebay for $31.00. ------------- Mike L
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