99 blazer with computstar craziness

I recently had a compustar 1WAM-S installed in my 1999 chev blazer and it is doing something that the compustar techs have never heard of.  If you stand anywhere in front of the front half of the truck (b-pillar and forwards) by pressing the unlock button on the remote all is good.  By standing more towards the rear of the truck (including next to the rear doors) pressing the unlock button on the compustar remote will set off the factory alarm and to turn off the alarm you yhave to start the truck with the remote starter.

The only thing I can think of is that the factory and the compustar systems are on the same frequency and one is receiving the unlock request before the other and one system does not like it.  Has anyone else come across something like this situation or have any suggestions as to why this is happening other than the truck being posessed?

THX

**UPDATE**

Ok...so I took the truck to another, more reputable shop and here is what was going on.  The original "professional" installer did not connect the anti-grind, starter kill, factory disarm and rear hatch leads; none of the connections were soldered; the door locks had an improper relay; the passlock 2 module was the wrong one; the "brain" and all the wiring was just stuffed up under the dash and not affixed to anything; the valet and key out features were not programmed / wired; and perhaps the worst part of the "professional" install, apart from the potential fire hazard of unsoldered connections or the brain and the wiring falling out from behind the dash blocking the brake peddle, was that a metal plate that is supposed to be under the dash to prevent the steering column from taking the legs off of the driver when the column shears in a head-on collision was missing.  When I asked the original shop about the missing plate they said that they had lots... meaning that I am not the only person with this missing safety feature.  Nice, huh? 

hmmmm....  where to start and try to reassure you.

Antigrind with that unit is prewired and I couldn't possibly understand why they would INTENTIONALLY cut it off to  not hook it up. 

Many companies have the rear hatch release as an option

Improper relay?  Never heard of such a thing.  Did your keyless work with the 1WAMS?  If so, I would assume it was a correct relay.

Wrong Passlock2 bypass?  Did the car RS?  If it did, then how could the bypass be wrong?

Factory disarm wire.....  they can be accidently overlooked sometimes. 

Valet not programmed?  You do that yourself through the remotes. 

Not soldered?  My shop does not solder most of the time.  We strip, poke, tape, and zip tie.  Soldering is not an absolute.

You make it sound alot worse than it probably is.  The new shop probably is not a CS dealer and not familiar with the units.

Thanks for the reply.  I will try to answer your questions as best I can.

Quotes by OhioMike1101 in bold...

Many companies have the rear hatch release as an option

When I approached the shop I asked that the Compustar remote replace the factory one with all its functionality including the hatch release.

Improper relay?  Never heard of such a thing.  Did your keyless work with the 1WAMS?  If so, I would assume it was a correct relay.

Well, the second installer showed me this mess of several relays and wires all mashed together beind my dash and said that was what was the "relay" for the door locks.  It looked like a really bad McGyver job.  There were at least three relays and multiple leads cross-wired and taped up.

Wrong Passlock2 bypass?  Did the car RS?  If it did, then how could the bypass be wrong?

The main issue we were having was that the alarm was going off when the doors were unlocked.  The second installer stated that the bypass was a DEI unit that could not be programmed and that it was one they have never seen used in this application.

Factory disarm wire.....  they can be accidently overlooked sometimes. 

I am paying a "professional" to do an install for me.  I expect professional results.  Forgetting to do something that I am paying someone to do, by my definition is not professional.

Valet not programmed?  You do that yourself through the remotes. 

It never seemed to work until it was looked at by the second installer

Not soldered?  My shop does not solder most of the time.  We strip, poke, tape, and zip tie.  Soldering is not an absolute.

I can understand not soldering certain connections but when all connections are taped and not soldered nor tied back that is just wrong.

You make it sound alot worse than it probably is.  The new shop probably is not a CS dealer and not familiar with the units.

They claim to be a CompuStar dealer fully trained an all that jazz.

Nope... no hood pin... originally.

When I asked them about installing the remote starter I asked specifically:

Will it have starter kill?
"yes"
Will it come with two remotes?
"yes"
Does it do anti-grind?
"yes"
I want the remote on the compustar to do all the functions that the factory remote does including door locks and hatch release.
"we can do that but it will cost more"
I gave them approval to install the extra features.

It did not have starter kill wired, did not have the anti-grind wired, did not relase the hatch and only came with one remote.  After day 6 of this "professional" having the truck I was just happy to get it back.  Needless to say we negociated a lower price as it took so long yet all the features I asked for were to have been completed.

I totally understand that soldering is not necessary and had this guy soldered anything in my truck I am certain that I'd have a burned carpet and melted dashboard.  Again, when I pay for a professional electrical install I expect to see proper crimp connectors, heat shrink, wire ties and soldered wire to wire connections or at least crimped butt connectors.  I employ all the above whenever I do electrical work in my vehicles or at my job.  I cannot stress this enough, when I pay someone who claims to be a professional installer to do something that I have no experience in doing, I expect them to do a better job than I could and not just use electrical tape everywhere with no crimp connectors of any dectription.  Not that I am bitter...

Yeah... I was a bit concerned but let him do his thing trusting that all was good.  He kept on coming up with excuses as to why it was not done....parts not in... parts he got did not work... blah blah blah...  I did not need the vehicle for the week anyway.  The only reason I picked that shop was because the other options were a large electronics chain (which I would not trust to change a lightbulb) or another shop that does all the work in the parking lot as they have no garage.   I suppose it was the lessor of two evils. 

I did end up paying $200 for the original install and another $90 for the fix as they had to replace the bypass that was wonky.

Thanks for the replies Gus.  I really do appreciate the insight of someone who knows they are doing, unlike my original installer.  Why couldn't your shop be in my city?  It would have saved me a lot of hassle. 

John