Remote Start Issues (Compustar 2WSS-AS)

So, my friend and I finally finished installing my alarm with remote start yesterday (took us about 3 weekends).  

Everything seems to work, but I do sometimes have a problem with the remote start.

The brain needed to "learn" the idle, and the install guide had the following instructions:
Start the vehicle with the manual key and let the engine idle down. The next step is to press the black tachometer button.

When it says "idle down", I assumed that it meant to let the engine warm up and get to its proper idle, which is around 950rpms on my car.

The problem I'm having is that my car starts, runs for about 10 seconds, and then shuts down. Then it'll start again, and usually stay on. When it's cold (like this morning). It started and died 3 or 4 times, and never stayed on.

When the engine is really warm, the remote start will work fine in one try.

I think the problem may be the fact that my car takes a _really_ long time to actually drop all the way down to 950rpms. When I started it with my key, it stayed at 2000rpms for about a minute, then dropped to around 1300rpms, and only later on when I was idling at a traffic light, did it drop to 950.

Do you think I just need to program the brain to watch for a higher rpm?

This may or may not be related, but the starter doesn't immediately stop once the engine starts. I can hear it going for another 2-3 seconds after the engine starts. Is that normal?

Thanks,
Ruban

You do not have a right tach wire or it is not a clean signal. If it's a GM/Chevy product...chances are you used the WHITE wire instead of the PURPLE / WHITE wire. What vehicle is this ? What I have done in the past with Chevy's is if the signal is not clean from one of the two wires listed I would end up using the other one. Another way is to manually set your tach to learn a lower tach idle so it doesn't over crank the starter ( this kills your starter ).

Jeff,

Thank you for your reply. This is for a 1991 Nissan 240SX. I tested the wire with a multimeter, and the voltage goes up as I press the gas pedal. I then thought that it might be some type of alternator wire, but I don't get any reading when the key is in the "on" position, without the engine running. So, I'm assuming that's the tach wire.

Do you know of a better way to test that out? And to see if it's a clean signal? I'm a newbie, so I'm trying to learn these things.

Thanks,

Ruban

TACHOMETER----------yellow/red------------------ECM pass. kick panel

You can also use the injector wire ( uncommon colored one ) and relearn the tach signal for this.

I would just learn the tach at the 2000rpm range for the winter and when summer comes around take it down to around 1000.