Progressive Unlock Issues

I'm about 95% done installing a Valet 712T Keyless Entry system on my 98 Toyota 4Runner, and everything works great except progressive unlocking/driver door priority.
I have my second unlock (-) output hooked up to my power unlock switch and the #30 lock output (from the onboard relay) (-) hooked up to the power lock switch. The doors lock fine with a press of the arm/lock button, and the all of the doors unlock fine with 2 sequential presses of the disarm/unlock button.
This is obviously OK, but my problem is that when I tried to wire the #30 unlock (-) output to my lock motor it did nothing. I found two applicable wires in the blue harness in the DKP and tested them with my multi-meter. One wire (B/Y) registered (-)~11.8 volts when the unlock switch was pressed. When lock was pressed it registered ~.1 volts. The other wire (Bl/W), did the opposite. About 12 volts (+) when lock was pressed and just over .1 volts (-) when unlock was pressed.
I spliced into the (-) wire and hooked the harness side into the #87a wire on my keyless module. The other side of the wire went into the #30 unlock wire from the keyless unit. I then tested the system.
Everything was exactly the same. Lock/unlock still worked fine but only all 4 doors together and I still have to press twice to get unlocked. So then I decided to switch the #30 and #87a wires on the door lock motor wire. Same exact thing.
Apparently splicing the keyless entry relay into my door lock had no effect. I disconnected the 2 leads tested once more. Of course the driver lock didn't work at all. I spliced the (-) door motor wire back together and was back right where I started.
If anyone can tell me what I'm doing wrong it would be great. Do I have the polarity backwards? Do I need to do something with that positive wire in the harness? Any help would be great and if you need any more information I will be happy to respond. Thanks.
Helix6

Ok, here's the plan. The wire that shows 12V+ when you hit unlock is the one you want. Cut that wire in the kickpanel. The end that comes from the door you will connect the blue/black from the 712T. The other end of it gets connected to the BROWN / black wire of the 712T. The violet wire on the 712T gets 12V+, the voilet/black gets 12V-. The GREEN/ black from the 712T goes to the RED / white in the door harness. The blue 200ma second unlock output will go to RED / yellow in the door harness. The WHITE/ black doesn't get used. That's it, yer done...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

OK first, the (+)12V is when I hit the lock button. It shows (almost) nothing when I hit unlock. Something like (-).1V. When I hit the unlock button the other wire (previously described) shows voltage. Correct me if I'm wrong, but won't the #30 unlock output simply lock the driver motor when I hit disarm, then unlock all of them on the second press (with the second unlock output)?
I understand giving 12V (+) to the motor to activate it, but I think it will go the wrong way. I also get your description of using the built-in relay to reverse the polarity of my circuit.
Please clarify the lock/unlock (+)12V thing. Do I need to stick with the wire I already cut that showed voltage during unlock, and give it (+)12V instead of (-)12V?
Oh and one other question...
Correct me if I'm wrong: The violet and violet/black wires are both spliced and fused together. I should cut the violet off and leave the violet/black ((-) lock circuit) fused and grounded. Then I take the violet wire and use a quick connect to splice to the red wire between the fuse and the 712. The red wire obviously goes to (+)12V constant in the ignition harness.
Please let me know how that sounds. Thanks.
Helix6

Just thought of something else.
In the manual, it says that depending on how you wire the violet and violet/black wires (+ or -), the #30 unlock and #30 lock will switch roles.
So if I was to split the #87 (violet and violet/black)wires and ground one and put the other to (+)12V am I going to waste my keyless module or what? Or are both of them going to work when I press arm?
Perhaps I will have to use an external relay after all?
Just another question for anybody that might know. I don't really want to trash my system when I've almost got it installed. Thanks.
Helix6

The voilet wires are the polarity wires. they determine what type voltage the outputs will have when you press the remote buttons. Yes, you need to split these polarity wires, as the unlock will now need 12V+ and the lock 12V-. The unlock is actually sending 12V+ to the actuall motor in the door, while the lock is just sending a pulse to the factory relays. The blue second unlock output is what will unlock all with the second press of the disarm button. The wire you want to cut will be a little thicker and will show a solid 12V+ when you press unlock. On the 99 it's pink/green, but may be different on a 98. When the correct wire is cut, the drivers door will stop locking and unlocking but the rest will still work fine. It will also read 12V+on the car side of the wire when you press the unlock button in the car and ground on the motor side(after it's cut). Trust me, wire it as i described above and it'll work fine, i've been doing this for 20 years....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

OK, I went back and re-measured the unlock wire I cut yesterday, and sure enough, it was (+)12V. Then I proceeded to splice the violet (unlock polarity wire) into the red (+)12V constant wire, and rewired the unlock wires the way I had them previously.
Sure enough it worked. Thanks a lot for helping me complete my first keyless entry install!
Helix6