Hey Guys,
Installed new R/S w/keyless entry in 2003 Grand Prix.
Everything except the factory security system works great.
It will not arm with the new remote.

All diagrams & info I've found say that the Factory Alarm Arms on lock with door open. (When using the factory keyless remote, the lock button arms the car and it doesn't matter if a door open or closed).

Does anyone know if there is a separate OEM ARM wire for this vehicle, if so, need color and location please.

Thanks!

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The Badger

You can try to pulse the driver's doorpin AND the lock wire at the same time----that might fool the factory alarm into arming. Worth a try.

Sometimes, though, the car needs to see the driver's door open before locking, rather than at the exact same time. This could probably be accomplished with timer relays and so forth, but it would be quite a job.

Otherwise, you can always just try to get in the habit of locking the doors while they're open-----either with the power lock switch on the door, or even with your aftermarket remote.

Chris,
Thanks for responding. I'll try pulsing the doorpin like you suggested and see if I can fool the system. I doubt it will work correctly though because the door pins on this vehicle are tan-driver's door only and dark blue-all other doors. Sooo, I guess I could tie to both of them and diode isolate???

Yeh, I thought of locking the door with the door lock switch with the door open before exiting. That will work fine since the alarm disarms as it should with the unlock on my new remote. But I'm still puzzled why the system won't arm when I use the new remote to lock the doors when the door is open. Any other ideas or suggestions from anyone would be muchly appreciated.

Thanks!

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The Badger

Your car has to be programmed to allow the alarm to arm with the door open and activating the lock button. First pull the MALL PGM 10 amp fuse out of the fuse box. Turn the ignition switch to the ACCESSORY position. The chimes should sound 2 to 4 times. Using another key, turn and hold the door lock key cylinder on the outside of the door to the unlock position. Depress the HORN button on the factory keyless remote until you hear 3 chimes sound. Each time you press the horn button, the car will move to its next mode. There are 3 modes and you want number 3 = 3 chimes. When you get the 3 chimes turn the ignition key to off and replace the fuse. The fuse is in the fuse box to the right of the glove box. It should be closest to the passenger side of the fuse box. It is labeled on the panel that pulls out to reveal the fuse box. You will have to activate the lock wire and the door pin wire to rearm the factory alarm. You may have to use a relay to open the door pin pulse wire if it pulses during remote start as the car won't allow the doors to lock if the igntion is on (under remote start), the lock wire is activated and it sees a door open.

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sparky

Sparkie,
Your response is right on the money. Earlier today I finally realized that my problem was with the programming of the car, and not my installation. When I noticed that the security system would arm ONLY with the factory remote only - not even with the door lock switch on the car, I knew I needed to reprogram the security system. The problem is, the lady only has one key. I have a new blank master key ordered, so when it arrives I'll program the new key, then I can reprogram the security as you directed. That's for giving me a heads up on the possible gliches I could encounter and their solutions.

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The Badger

You can actually reprogram the car with only one key and the factory remote. The only thing the second key is used for is to activate the disarm wire from the door's key cylinder. You can eliminate the key by using a jumper wire to ground the disarm wire at the BCM instead. Good luck.

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sparky

Installed R/S in 2003 Grand Prix GTP.
The preliminary test on the R/S works perfectly (placing the key in the ignition switch in the off position and starting the car with R/S). It starts and runs fine.

Now I'm ready to do the installation of the bypass -
(using a DEI 555GW Paskey III Immobilizer Bypass Module).

The installation sheet that came with the 555G lists only 2000-2001 Pontiac Grand Prix (not 2002-2003). BUT the Dr. Detail website Factory Anti-Theft Bypass and Databus Reference Guide lists either, 555G or 556U for 2000-2003 Grand Prix. My questions are:

1) Will the 555GW work on 2003 the Grand Prix?

2) Does the 2003 Grand Prix have a FUEL or DATA type immobilizer?

3) The installation instructions for the 555GW say, "locate the appropriate wires (in the harness at the rear of the ignition switch) exiting the ignition switch immoblilizer receiver".
The wire colors to be connected are shown as:
PINK or WHITE    Immobilizer Ignition Feed
PURPLE           Data
BLUE             Fuel Enable
LIGHT GREEN      Key Sense

Is the immobilizer receiver the BLACK PK3 assembly surrounding the ignition switch?
If so, I have the following wires coming out of the bottom of it:
PURPLE, BLUE, GRAY, ORANGE, PINK, & BLACK

Then there is a LIGHT GREEN and a TAN wire going towards the rear of the switch and a WHITE/ black and black that connect on a white nylon assembly at the back of the switch.

If I connect these wires per the 555GW diagram, are these the correct wires to use?

Help appreciated.

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The Badger

Yes the black module/ring around the igntion switch is the transponder Passkey III module. The wires you need should be all together in one harness coming off the module. The pink wire is the ignition feed. The blue wire is the fuel enable wire. The orange is battery and the black is ground. Purple is the data wire. The light green wire off the igntion switch is the key sense wire. It should go to ground when you insert a key into the igntion switch. I am not famaliar with DEI, but the Grand Prix's Passkey III system is the same from 1999 to 2003.

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sparky

Sparkie,
Thank you very much. The info is very detailed and helpful. I have just a couple of further questions (please)-

1) Is the Immobilizer on the '03 Grand Prix a "FUEL" or a "DATA" type bypass?
(On the 555GW, it makes a difference which TYPE it is because the connections are slightly different).
The installtion guide shows that 2000-2001 Pontiac Grand Prix is "FUEL" type, so based upon your previously posted statement that "the Grand Prix's Passkey III system is the same from 1999 to 2003", can I assume the '03 is still a "FUEL" type immobilizer?

2) I got a new master PK3 transponder key and had it cut.
I've followed the instructions on
"PROGRAMMING PASS-KEY III:     (QUICK LEARN)"
I've repeated the process several times, but the new unlearned key doesn't want to accept the programming.
The original master key starts the car fine and the security works properly with the original master key.
The new key will still not get around the security. It starts the car, but the secuirty light flashes when starting the car and then it kills the ignition.
Any ideas on what I'm doing wrong ???

Just out of curiosity, once you program a new key, can that same key be re-programmed again or is it a one time deal (like closing a CD is when you burn it)?

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The Badger

Yes the immobilizer system is a fuel type one. You have to hook it up like the 2000 model. When you are programming the keys you actually need two valid keys to program in a third new key on almost every one of the these cars. The instructions from GM aren't 100% correct. Turn the first valid key on for 3 seconds. Remove it and turn the second valid key on for about 5 seconds. Then insert the new key into the igntion and turn it on for about 10 seconds, then turn it off. Wait 30 seconds and then try the new key again. Unless the vehicle has had too many keys alrady programmed into it, this should work. If it doesn't, or you don't have two valid keys that will start the car, a GM dealer will have to program the third new key. The key can't really be used on another car, because it won't be cut correctly to fit the igntion switch cylinder.

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sparky

Sparky - Thanks. The bypass is working fine. Also got the new key to accept programming and it's working great after several attempts. I really appreciate the input & help from everyone who assisted on this one.
This forum is very beneficial and educational -
glad I joined up, and I only hope I can help others as much as they have helped me.
Thanks again.

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The Badger

I am glad I could help.

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sparky

Still having a problem with the '03 Grand Prix.
Installed R/S and DEI 457GW Immobilizer bypass.
The car remote starts and runs perfectly.
No security lights come and no problems at all -
UNLESS I arm the factory security.

When I arm the OEM security system (regardless of how I arm it), the OEM alarm goes off the instant it is remote started. THE CAR STARTS and RUNS with no security lights coming on, but the horn blows and lights flash.

I can get the alarm to quit with the key in the door or with the factory remote unlock button, but the remote for the R/S will not unlock the doors or allow me to disarm the system unless I go through about 3 lock/unlock cycles. (The R/S remote is a single button lock/unlock). Keep in mind the car still starts and runs under R/S during this time.

Obviously, the factory alarm disarm wire from the R/S is not disarming the security before it remote starts. However, I've triple-checked the wiring of the disarm wire on the R/S and the pulse on that wire. It gives a short negative pulse just before remote starting, just as it should - and it's tied to the ORANGE / black wire at the BCM that goes negative when turning the key in the lock to unlock. I've even tried using a double pulse and long pulse on unlock, but neither helped. The R/S remote locks and unlocks the doors fine and even disarms the security as it should - until I arm the system and remote start the car. Only then is when the alarm goes off.

Any suggestions anyone?


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The Badger

Correction to the above:
The immobilizer bypass I'm using is a NOT a DEI 457GW -
it is a DEI 555GW.

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The Badger

You didn't list what you are using for a remote starter. It is possible that the disarm output isn't activating prior to start up. Use a meter to confirm that it is. The disarm must be the very first thing the r/s activates otherwise the alarm will sound as soon as any power is applied to the car's electrical circuits. Some r/s units only pulse the disarm wire during the unlock cycle and you may need to create a circuit to simulate this, or program your r/s to unlock/disarm before starting and then relock right after start up.

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sparky

Hey - the '03 Grand Prix is finally out of the shop with a happy customer!!!

The R/S is a no-name brand that was a liquidation item from NAPA Auto Parts. The customer got it as a Christmas gift.
Yep., the FASD wire was the first thing I checked. It was giving a negative pulse just prior to remote start activation. It was also functioning properly when the doors were unlocked. The problem turned out to be at the plug going into the ECM. We battled this problem lots of hours to figure it out, but here's the bottom line:
The car has had an electical parasite problem that drains the battery (in approx. 12 hrs.) ever since she purchased it from a local dealer. The dealer just replaced the battery, but the problem is still there, just not as bad because the new battery has more umph. Anyway, remember that this car needed re-programmed to option 3 so it would arm from the doors and the remotes?
Now we all know why they had programmed it to work only from the factory remote. Besides the bad connections between the ECM and the plug, the ECM has internal problems. Whenever the car was armed, neither the unlock button on the door nor the new remote would unlock the doors. When the car was remote started, it got around the immobilizer bypass and ran, but the alarm would go off. Then you couldn't get it to unlock or stop honking unless you used the OEM remote or put the key in the lock and unlocked the door. We reprogrammed the OEM security system and disabled it. The R/S works great, the car locks and unlocks with any remote, either door switch, or the key. In this case, the customer did not use the security anyway, and preferred to have the R/S. My only other concern is that the ECM could have further issues or cause big problems in the future. Time will tell.
Thanks again for your input - very helpful.

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The Badger

Cars like that I have learned to run away from, not walk, as fast as I can. The headaches aren't worth the money. You end up working for free to prove the problems aren't yours. Hopefully it will never come back again and consider it a lesson learned. It's good you stayed with it until you fixed it though.

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sparky